Kang Guru | 1984 W Face-NW Ridge

A Australia expedition to Kang Guru in 1984 via W Face-NW Ridge, led by Michael Chapman. Summit reached on 9th December 1984. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 978
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KGUR84401
Peak ID KGUR
Year 1984
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Michael Chapman
Sponsor Anglo-Australian Kang Guru Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-11-25
Summit Date 1984-12-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 14
Total Days 21
Termination Date 1984-12-16
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6900m due to winds
High Point (m) 6900
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/11,3660m),C1(03/12,5350m),C2(06/12,6050m),C3(07/12,6250m),xxx(09/12,6900m)
Route Notes BC at Meta C2 on big rock buttress on West Face C2 on face C3 on face near West Ridge High point on West Ridge. 8 Dec very windy and couldn't move. 9 Dec summit bid by all 3 members and Maila Pemba and reached 6900m when 80-90 mph wind stopped them (Rheinberger and Maila Pemba). Chapman and Martin turned back at 6500m. All to C1 on 10 Dec to stock up on food and wait for good weather while Chapman left expedition on 11th for work. 25 Dec - Chapman told by sirdar another summit bid made in mid-Dec stopped by snowfall and wind on 14/15 Dec and did not get above C3. Rheinberger - 3 Jan 1985 12th Maila Pemba returned to C1 where Rheinberger and Martin had remained. 13th all 3 to C3 where winds so strong had to make snow cave as next made to protect tent was not enough. 14th all 3 set out from C4, but after getting to about 500 ft above camp, temperature lower and wind still strong. Gave up and went to BC in up to 3 ft of unconsolidated snow; got down well after dark. 15th packed up because porters arranged for 16th to evacuate mountain. Mountain itself technically "dead easy." Couple of dangerous spots including couloir of 2000 ft of 35-40 degree which fills with snow and vulnerable to rock fall from sides. Crevasses above C3 required rope and wind was problem. 2-3km long summit ridge from point it is gained. Mick Chapman - 25 Dec 1984 Rheinberger and Chapman to C1 10 Dec. Chapman and sirdar to BC. 11th Dec sirdar rejoined 2 at C1, he was reported to Chapman on his return to KTM. 13th Dec to C2 14th Dec to C3 Snowfall and wind stopped further progress 15 dec to BC 16 Dec left BC. All well, no illness or accidents. Arrive KTM about 1-2 Jan via Thorung Pass and Annapurna Sanctuary. Leave Nepal 5-6 Jan.
Accidents None as of Dec 11, nor as per sirdar's report after BC evacuated
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448613
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-nw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michael John (Mick) Chapman M 1953 UK Leader Kathmandu & Reading, Berkshire, England Guides outdoor adventure trips Details Other expeditions
Gregory (Greg) Martin M 1941 Australia Climber Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Michael Anthony Rheinberger M 1940 Australia Climber Melbourne, Victoria, Australia Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Maila Pemba Sherpa M 1953 Nepal Sirdar Kurima, Lokhim-9, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KGUR84401 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:281 (1985) -
KGUR84401 NZAJ Rheinberger, Michael A Touch of Winter - 38:72-75 (1985) -
KGUR84401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198528103/Asia-Nepal-Kang-Guru-Winter-Attempt - - -