Kang Guru | 1984 W Face-NW Ridge

A UK expedition to Kang Guru in 1984 via W Face-NW Ridge, led by Michael John Chapman. Summit reached on 24th April 1984. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1041
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KGUR84101
Peak ID KGUR
Year 1984
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Michael John Chapman
Sponsor British Kang Guru Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-04-06
Summit Date 1984-04-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 19
Termination Date 1984-04-25
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6200m due to fall into crevasse
High Point (m) 6200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/04,3600m),Biv1(11/04,4900m),Biv2(15/04,5400m),Biv3(19/04,5750m),Biv4(21/04,5900m),Biv5(23/04,6075m),xxx(24/04,6200m)
Route Notes BC at Meta deserted village Biv3 on West Ridge. Were on Yugoslav/Japanese normal route as far as 2nd biv. On 17th April climbed to 200m, route section of ice (icefall) which had worsened at top and would be difficult so went over (traversed east for 3 hrs) to S Face. On 17th returned to 2nd biv and on 19th made 2nd traverse and 3rd traverse. On 22nd started through a crevasse field and got gear through it to 5th biv on 23rd. Then Seely fell in crevasse on 24th and took 5 hours get him out; his load jammed and couldn't get it out at all. Seely had all food and stoves. Had planned to biv at 6400m. Route not really interesting and hard enough to want to repeat but a good two man alpine-style route [could do it]. Spent lot of time acclimatizing and sitting out snowstorms which brought some avalanching. Local people came up to 1st biv and stole camera.
Accidents Seely fell 25ft into crevasse on 24th and shattered knee-cap (Seely crawled and Chapman supported him, sometimes dragging on carrier)
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448384
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-nw ridge

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michael John (Mick) Chapman M 1953 UK Leader Kathmandu & Reading, Berkshire, England Guides trekkers in mountain areas Details Other expeditions
Nicholas (Nick) Seely M 1957 UK Climber Kathmandu & South Croydon, London, England Forester Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KGUR84101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:280-281 (1985) -
KGUR84101 MM - - - 99:9 (Sep 1984) -
KGUR84101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198528003/Asia-Nepal-Kang-Guru-Attempt - - -