Kang Guru | 1983 W Face-W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Kang Guru in 1983 via W Face-W Ridge, led by Koichi Kato. Summit reached on 18th December 1983. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 152
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KGUR83401
Peak ID KGUR
Year 1983
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Koichi Kato
Sponsor Den Den Sangaku Doshikai Kang Guru Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 9th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-12-05
Summit Date 1983-12-18
Summit Time 1415
Summit Days 13
Total Days 17
Termination Date 1983-12-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6981
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/12,3800m),C1(07/12,4600m),C2(09/12,5750m),Biv(17/12,6200m),Smt(18/12)
Route Notes BC at Nar Khola near Meta. Baba left BC alone on 17 Dec in summit attack. Kato later went up to C1 same day. 18 Dec 7:10 am Baba left biv and reached top 2:15 pm and returned to C1 while Kasugai to C1 and Umezaki went to Nar Hill to be able to watch Baba (could not see summit from BC) 19 Dec. Baba descended to BC at 2:00 pm. Kato stayed C2 while Kasugai up to C2 and back to C1. 20 Dec all in BC. Plan was to put only member on top. Not difficult mountain but this first winter attempt. Hidden crevasse at 6200m on 12 Dec Baba almost fell into at night. Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 22 Dec 1983 Hiroryki Baba to summit 18 Dec. 17 Dec Baba started from BC 6:30 am and bived at 6250m at 7:15 pm. 18 Dec started towards top at 7:15 am and reached it 2:15 pm from SW Face. Hoisted Japanese, Nepal and Den Den Expedition Club flags 5 minutes. Biv 19 Dec. Returned to BC at 12:15 pm after departure, ex-biv at 7:00 am in good health. No further top attempts. Leave BC by 22 Dec. Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 18 Dec 1983 Kang Guru plans: 15 Dec were in BC 16 Dec relax BC 17 Dec to C1 18 Dec to C2 19 Dec to summit 20 Dec to C1 or C2 21 Dec to BC C2 established by Hiroyuki Baba and Kasugai and returned to BC 15 Dec 4:30 after problems where route goes above C2.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Journeys
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448255
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-w ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hiroyuki Baba M 1948 Japan Climber Kikuchi-gun, Kumamoto, Japan Technician, telecommunications Details Other expeditions
Masahiro Kasugai M 1950 Japan Climber Shinnabe, Kumamoto, Japan Office worker, telecommunications company Details Other expeditions
Koichi Kato M 1941 Japan Leader Ueki, Kamoto-ku, Kumamoto, Japan Office worker, telecommunications company Details Other expeditions
Takara Umezaki M 1948 Japan Climber Tamukae, Kumamoto, Japan Office worker, telecommunications company Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KGUR83401 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 58:251-252 (1984) -
KGUR83401 HJ Baba, Hiroyuki Kang Guru, Two Day Ascent (Winter) - 41:161-163 (1983-1984) -
KGUR83401 MM - - - 96:13 (Mar 1984) -
KGUR83401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198425105/Asia-Nepal-Kang-Guru-Winter-Solo-Ascent - - -
KGUR83401 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/41/21/expeditions-and-notes-41/ - - -