Kang Guru | 1982 W Face-NW Ridge

A Yugoslavia expedition to Kang Guru in 1982 via W Face-NW Ridge, led by Vladimir Mesaric. Summit reached on 12th October 1982. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2044
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KGUR82301
Peak ID KGUR
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Vladimir Mesaric
Sponsor Yugoslav Kang Guru Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 7th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dumre->Marshyangdi Valley->BC
Basecamp Date 1982-09-30
Summit Date 1982-10-12
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 12
Total Days 16
Termination Date 1982-10-16
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6981
Traverse False
Ski True
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/09,3600m),C1(30/09,4800m),C2(05/10,5800m),C3(11/10,6300m),Smt(12/10)
Route Notes Mesaric - 24 Oct 82 Had permit for new route from southeast, but advance party saw approach to southeast impossible for porters without big rich expedition's building trail and bridges, so went to West Ridge same route as Germans (in upper parts found fixed ropes of Japanese). BC and C1 established 30 Sept BC = 3600m and C1 4800m C2 established 5 Oct at 5800m C3 " 11 Oct at 6300m C3 = highest camp Summit on 12 Oct by Mesaric, Bozic and Separovic C1-C2 - 100m-120m fixed rope Most difficult part = very steep ice, seracs and crevasses just below C3; no ropes here. From 6800m Separovic made ski descent and from 6200m Bozic ski descent and from 5300m three more made ski descent to end of snow at about 5000m. 13 Oct cleared mountain; another summit team ready to go to top decided not to do so for unexplained reason. No illness, accident or frostbite. 3 arrive KTM 23 Oct; another 3 have gone to recce Manaslu for next years climb and 4 to search for Yugoslav who disappeared on Pisang. Shyam, Tourism - 14 Oct 82 West route. Started 8:00 am from C3 12 Oct 3:00 pm summit by Vladimir Mesaric, 1949 Branko Separovic Stipe Bozic Weather good 30 minutes on top and ret to C3 at 6300m (established 11 Oct) 16 Oct leave BC for KTM. Mesaric & Bozic - 17 Sept 82 Ski descent from summit if possible in which case route=East Face = new route - couldn't get any photos of this face so not certain of skiing possibility on it. 2 men go in advance to see and if skiing not possible go to Japanese Spr 1982 West Ridge. Hope leave 21 Sept by bus to Dumre and then on foot via Marshyangdi to BC which will be on east or west of mountain depending on skiing conditions on East Face (no skiing via West Ridge). One fixed camp at least on either route perhaps more depending on conditions on face. No Sherpas above BC. No oxygen at all unless can buy couple tanks in KTM.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447822
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-nw ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Borislav Aleraj M 1946 Yugoslavia Exp Doctor Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Physician Details Other expeditions
Stipe Bozic M 1951 Yugoslavia Climbing Leader Split, Croatia, Yugoslavia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Mladen Briski M 1949 Yugoslavia Climber Rijeka, Croatia, Yugoslavia Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Marijan Cepelak M 1948 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Geological engineer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir (Vlado) Mesaric M 1949 Yugoslavia Leader Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Nenad Pivac M 1956 Yugoslavia Climber Split, Croatia, Yugoslavia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Branimir Predovic M 1946 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Architectural engineer Details Other expeditions
Branko Separovic M 1947 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Borislav Starcevic M 1947 Yugoslavia Deputy Leader Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Boris Vrbek M 1949 Yugoslavia Climber Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia Forestry engineer Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KGUR82301 AAJ Mesaric, Vladimir - - 57:238 (1983) -
KGUR82301 - Bozic, Stipe Put Na Vrh Svijeta Slobodna Dalmacija, Split, Croatia, Yugoslavia - -
KGUR82301 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
KGUR82301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198323801/Asia-Nepal-Kang-Guru - - -