Kang Guru | 1982 W Face-NW Ridge
A Yugoslavia expedition to Kang Guru in 1982 via W Face-NW Ridge, led by Vladimir Mesaric. Summit reached on 12th October 1982. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2044 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KGUR82301 |
| Peak ID | KGUR |
| Year | 1982 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face-NW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Yugoslavia |
| Leaders | Vladimir Mesaric |
| Sponsor | Yugoslav Kang Guru Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 7th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Dumre->Marshyangdi Valley->BC |
| Basecamp Date | 1982-09-30 |
| Summit Date | 1982-10-12 |
| Summit Time | 1500 |
| Summit Days | 12 |
| Total Days | 16 |
| Termination Date | 1982-10-16 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6981 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | True |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(30/09,3600m),C1(30/09,4800m),C2(05/10,5800m),C3(11/10,6300m),Smt(12/10) |
| Route Notes | Mesaric - 24 Oct 82 Had permit for new route from southeast, but advance party saw approach to southeast impossible for porters without big rich expedition's building trail and bridges, so went to West Ridge same route as Germans (in upper parts found fixed ropes of Japanese). BC and C1 established 30 Sept BC = 3600m and C1 4800m C2 established 5 Oct at 5800m C3 " 11 Oct at 6300m C3 = highest camp Summit on 12 Oct by Mesaric, Bozic and Separovic C1-C2 - 100m-120m fixed rope Most difficult part = very steep ice, seracs and crevasses just below C3; no ropes here. From 6800m Separovic made ski descent and from 6200m Bozic ski descent and from 5300m three more made ski descent to end of snow at about 5000m. 13 Oct cleared mountain; another summit team ready to go to top decided not to do so for unexplained reason. No illness, accident or frostbite. 3 arrive KTM 23 Oct; another 3 have gone to recce Manaslu for next years climb and 4 to search for Yugoslav who disappeared on Pisang. Shyam, Tourism - 14 Oct 82 West route. Started 8:00 am from C3 12 Oct 3:00 pm summit by Vladimir Mesaric, 1949 Branko Separovic Stipe Bozic Weather good 30 minutes on top and ret to C3 at 6300m (established 11 Oct) 16 Oct leave BC for KTM. Mesaric & Bozic - 17 Sept 82 Ski descent from summit if possible in which case route=East Face = new route - couldn't get any photos of this face so not certain of skiing possibility on it. 2 men go in advance to see and if skiing not possible go to Japanese Spr 1982 West Ridge. Hope leave 21 Sept by bus to Dumre and then on foot via Marshyangdi to BC which will be on east or west of mountain depending on skiing conditions on East Face (no skiing via West Ridge). One fixed camp at least on either route perhaps more depending on conditions on face. No Sherpas above BC. No oxygen at all unless can buy couple tanks in KTM. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447822 |
| Year | 1982 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w face-nw ridge |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Borislav Aleraj | M | 1946 | Yugoslavia | Exp Doctor | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Stipe Bozic | M | 1951 | Yugoslavia | Climbing Leader | Split, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Mladen Briski | M | 1949 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Rijeka, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Construction engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Marijan Cepelak | M | 1948 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Geological engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir (Vlado) Mesaric | M | 1949 | Yugoslavia | Leader | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Nenad Pivac | M | 1956 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Split, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Electrician | Details Other expeditions |
| Branimir Predovic | M | 1946 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Architectural engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Branko Separovic | M | 1947 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Mechanical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Borislav Starcevic | M | 1947 | Yugoslavia | Deputy Leader | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Boris Vrbek | M | 1949 | Yugoslavia | Climber | Zagreb, Croatia, Yugoslavia | Forestry engineer | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KGUR82301 | AAJ | Mesaric, Vladimir | - | - | 57:238 (1983) | - |
| KGUR82301 | - | Bozic, Stipe | Put Na Vrh Svijeta | Slobodna Dalmacija, Split, Croatia, Yugoslavia | - | - |
| KGUR82301 | MM | - | - | - | 89:12 (Jan 1983) | - |
| KGUR82301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198323801/Asia-Nepal-Kang-Guru | - | - | - |