Kang Guru | 1980 NE Ridge

A Japan expedition to Kang Guru in 1980 via NE Ridge, led by Shozo Kikuchi. Summit reached on 18th April 1980. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1906
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KGUR80101
Peak ID KGUR
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Shozo Kikuchi
Sponsor Hirosaki Kang Guru Peak Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Marshyangdi River->Thanje
Basecamp Date 1980-03-20
Summit Date 1980-04-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 29
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6600m due to deep snow and shortage of rope
High Point (m) 6600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 2000
Total Members 10
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/03,4500m),C1(28/03,5500m),C2(15/04,5600m),C3(17/04,6550m),xxx(18/04,6600m)
Route Notes Kikuchi - 1 May 80 All climbing on NE Ridge C2 at 5600m 15 April C3 at 6550m 17 April Climbing stopped 19 April much snow and not enough equipment like rope; safety first is duty. Kokubu, Kozo Kudo and Hisao Kudo got above C3, but 50 metres only because much snow and crevasse. On 18 April East Face very dangerous and difficult because standing icefall, winds and crevasse zone so no climbing on face at all; all climbing on NE Ridge. No accidents, frostbite, illness. Put in 2000m fixed rope and needed 1000m because crevasse zone. Pre-monsoon difficult, post-monsoon easy so request again Kang Guru post-monsoon via same route. Kikuchi - 24 Feb 80 All arrive KTM 1 week ago; leave 28 Feb by road to Pokhara. Route = East Face or NE Ridge; first try East Face which is new route. Caravan from Pokhara go northeast to Marshyangdi River to Thanje; then to last village Kharje (Kharelu) to BC at 4000-4500m. 2 weeks to BC. 3 or 4 camps above BC; summit mid April. No Sherpas above BC No oxygen except medical
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446913
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shozo Kikuchi M 1945 Japan Leader Aomori-shi, Aomori, Japan Manager of sports shop Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Kokubu M 1949 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Hisao Kudo M 1954 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Works in a newspaper office Details Other expeditions
Kozo Kudo M 1950 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Yutaka Kudo M 1947 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Works in railway office Details Other expeditions
Mitsuo Masuda M 1947 Japan Exp Doctor Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Toshiko Mikami M 1954 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Works in the office of a sports shop Details Other expeditions
Shigehiro Sawada M 1950 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Iwao Tsushima M 1946 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Coffee shop manager Details Other expeditions
Shinichi Usami M 1954 Japan Climber Hirosaki, Aomori, Japan Medical student Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KGUR80101 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 55:265-266 (1981) -
KGUR80101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126504/Asia-Nepal-Kang-Guru-Attempt - - -