Kang Guru | 1978 NW Ridge from W

A W Germany expedition to Kang Guru in 1978 via NW Ridge from W, led by Hermann Froidl. Summit reached on 25th October 1978. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2160
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KGUR78301
Peak ID KGUR
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge from W
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Hermann Froidl
Sponsor Hauser Exkursionen International's Tour Nepal - Kang Guru
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dumre->Marshyangdi Valley
Basecamp Date 1978-10-19
Summit Date 1978-10-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 6
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6650m due to members' illnesses and lack of porters
High Point (m) 6650
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/10,3500m),Biv(20/10,4800m),C1(21/10,5200m),C2(24/10,6000m),xxx(25/10,6650m)
Route Notes Scherzer, leader German Kang Guru 1983 expedition - 13 April 83 Route in 1978 was from west, not east [my notes of 9 Oct 78 say approach would be via Pisang, which is due west of Kang Guru]. Froidl - 14 Nov 78 Route was NW Ridge BC 19 Oct 3500m Biv 20 Oct 4800m C1 21 Oct 5200m C2 24 Oct 6000m Highest point 25 Oct, 6600-6700m, by Schmitt and Traunik. All sick: bad bronchitis with fever. Had fixed programme so could not stay longer and no porters, so must take horses and yaks. Also had heavy snow, but this not the cause of stopping; actually heavy snow between biv and C1. Other problem was Sherpas did not receive all equipment they demanded and only a few were willing to climb to C1. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism BC 19 Oct C1 20 Oct 4800m High-point 6790m Froidl - 9 Oct 78 Route is NW Ridge = 1955 Germans. On climbing route, first have 2000m rock wall on north side then little ice wall to ridge. 2 fixed camps above BC C1 5600m at top of rock wall C2 6200m under ice wall Base at 3500m at beginning of rock wall. Leave today 1:00 pm by Germans to Dumre and then walk up Marshyangdi. Starting trek today. 10-12 days to BC depending on bridges and whether necessary go via Pisang. BC 17 or 19 Oct 8 Sherpas above BC "12 days for the mtn," then to Manang, Muktinath, Jomsom and fly to KTM from Jomsom 8 Nov. Commercial climb: members have hobby of climbing with most 40 years old, but 1 woman 20 years and 1 man 60 years. Hauser will make this expedition to Kang Guru every year. Germans doctors to do physiological tests - meet at Dumre Miss Ursul Welsch [doctor or girl friend?] Mrs Ludwig Gutsclure, Germany? Mr Wolfgang Hoschka, Germany
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446370
Year 1978
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge from w

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Christian Auer M 1944 W Germany Climber Rosenheim, Bavaria, W Germany Engineer Details Other expeditions
Klaus Borchers M 1941 W Germany Climber Bruessel, Hannover, Lower Saxony, W Germany - Details Other expeditions
Heinz Czerny M 1943 W Germany Climber Prien am Chiemsee, Bavaria, W Germany Engineer Details Other expeditions
Hermann Froidl M 1939 W Germany Leader Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Salesman for mountaineering-rope manufacturing company Details Other expeditions
Christine Loferer Horn F 1951 W Germany Climber Rosenheim, Bavaria, W Germany Merchant Details Other expeditions
Karl Horn M 1949 W Germany Climber Rosenheim, Bavaria, W Germany Student Details Other expeditions
Andreas Loferer M 1919 W Germany Climber Rosenheim, Bavaria, W Germany Merchant Details Other expeditions
Karl-Otto Meyer M 1935 W Germany Climber Friedberg, Bavaria, W Germany Employee Details Other expeditions
Waltraud Nothaft M 1934 W Germany Climber Holzkirchen, Bavaria, W Germany Merchant Details Other expeditions
Lotte Portune F 1921 W Germany Climber Frankfurt-am-Main, Hesse, W Germany Employee Details Other expeditions
Kurt Schmitt M 1929 W Germany Climber Oberschleissheim, Bavaria, W Germany Engineer who is salesman for an electrical-equipment manufact Co. Details Other expeditions
Elizabeth Seekatz F 1934 W Germany Climber Frankfurt-am-Main, Hesse, W Germany Secretary in British Airways office Details Other expeditions
Roland Traunik M 1935 W Germany Climber Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Merchant Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KGUR78301 AAJ Hauser, Guenter - - 53:272 (1979) -
KGUR78301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927204/Asia-Nepal-Kang-Guru-Attempt-and-Hiunchuli-Middle-Peak - - -