Kang Guru | 2005 SW Face-NW Ridge

A France expedition to Kang Guru in 2005 via SW Face-NW Ridge, led by Daniel Stolzenberg. Summit reached on 18th October 2005. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5139
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KGUR05301
Peak ID KGUR
Year 2005
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Daniel Stolzenberg
Sponsor Mt. Kang Guru Expedition 2005
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Besisahar->Jagat->Pisang->Ngawal->Kanla->BC Nar
Basecamp Date 2005-10-13
Summit Date 2005-10-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 5
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to avalanche killing all 7 members and 11 of 12 staff
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 7
Total Hired 11
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 11
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/10,4200m),C1(16/10,5300m),C2(17/10,6000m),xxx(18/10,6000m)
Route Notes The expedition team reached BC on Oct 13 at 4200-4300m (Dawa says that is the only place wide enough for BC). Performed puja on Oct 14. Established C1 on Oct 15 at 5300m Used C1 on Oct 16 by members and staff. Established C2 on Oct 17 at 6000m (about) (not occupied) Oct 18 members climbed upt o C2 for acclimatization and returned to C1 same day. Oct 19 rest day. Snowfall and wind started at about 12:00 hours. C1 was covered with snow about 3 feet. Oct 20 members and staff left C1 for BC around 08:00 hours - snowing all the way down to BC. About 16:00 hours BC hit by avalanche. Four porters, Lhakpa Lopchen, Dawa Tashi Lama, Lhakpa Singi Ghising and Sarki Tamang, were inside the tent, which was about 7-8m away from the BC at a little bit higher elevation. The tent was swept down more than 100m (as estimated by the first search team). They managed to come out of the tent and started whistling, hoping that somebody may come to help them. They waited for a while and started climbing towards the BC. There was nothing at the BC site. The BC site was like flat snowfield. Then the porters decided to go to Meta (nearby village). None of them had boots or gloves. They reached Meta about 20:30 hours. The four porters were served hot drinks by Kumar (full name not known) of GH (maybe GHA) at the hotel. Kumar was staying in the hotel with two foreign trekkers (may be French). Next day Kumar left for Chame to inform about the accident to Kathmandu. Kumar met Ratna Chuli Expedition team at Dharamshala and return with them to Meta. Around 12:00 hours they informed Churen Himal about the accident by the sat-phone of Ratna Chuli Expedition. HRA with the assistance of the French Embassy in KTM gathered a seven-member search and rescue team led by Padam Ghale in standby to go to the site on Oct 22 itself. However due to unavailability of helicopter, the team could leave only in the morning of Oct 23 to Chame. From Chame the team members and the equipment were taken to Meta (3500m) in two sorties. The helicopter returned to Kathmandu with three injured porters who got medical treatment at the Teaching Hospital. Porter Sarki Tamang's both feet were frostbitten (his condition is improving - Dawa). The head porter Dawa Tashi Lama was kept in Meta to guide the the search team to the BC. On Oct 24, the search team found some goods in the BC site and no sign of bodies. The team estimated that the bodies might have been swept into the deep gorges about 500m below the BC and technically it would not be possible for the small search team without appropriate equipment to continue the search. On the same evening additional support team of eleven Nepalis and a French Ansalmo Bo arrived Meta together with the President of HRA, Bikram Neupane. Mr. Neupane returning from the site, referring to the search team leader Padam Ghale, said that there is no hope of finding anybody alive. The search work started from 7 am under the leadership of Ansalmo Bo on Oct 25. The body of Bruno Chardin was found around 8:30 am. The body was left at a little lower place and due to risk of possible avalanche the team descended to Meta. Next day the search team started its work from 7 am. The body of Chardin brought down to Meta and same day to Kathmandu with the returning search team. The team left two persons including the head porter of the expedition Dawa Tashi Lama in Meta to guard the avalanche hit area and to monitor weather condition. Nima Sherpa (training instructor NMA), one of the members of the search team, on return to Kathmandu said that the condition of the avalanche hit area is very bad and weather too is bad for continuing the search work. There have been avalanches more than twice while working at BC. The team could work only for one and one-half hours in the morning. There is a risk of avalanche after 11:30 am. The BC is covered with more than 3.5m deep snow. It was very difficult to carry on digging work at the BC. Nima said the BC camp was placed in normal camp site for the expedition, which is about 4200m. He said the search work would continue after consultation with the French Embassy. The report submitted to HRA by Padam Ghale on Oct 27 contains list of goods found in the avalanche hit area (BC) which are 1 North Face tent, 1 mattress, 2 identity/citizenship cards, 3 caps, 1 toilet bag (ladies), 1 gas stove, 1 rucksack, a wrist watch, and gloves. Addressing a press conference organized by the French Embassy in Kathmandu on Oct 27, Serge Koenig, mountain guide and mountain advisor of Jean-Francois Lamour, French Minister for Youth and Sports, said that he was satisfied with the rescue operation carried by Nepali rescue team. He informed that two experts specialized in post-avalanche search operation with two sniffer dogs trained for mountain rescue, with special equipment, will be arriving Kathmandu on Oct 28 to continue search operation. The search operation has been halted for sometime due to snowfall and likelihood of avalanche. But it will resume within few days when weather gets clear. The second team of 30 people including 5 French together with 2 sniffer dogs reached Meta at 12:25 pm on Oct 31. On Nov 1 the team of 27 people started the search work at the site and three members were stationed in Meta to monitor weather conditions, communication and reporting. The team found an unidentified French member's body around 2:10 pm. On Nov 2, the search work started from the morning. Sites of search was divided for the day into four sites; upper site, lower site of BC, BC area, and in the gorge about 365m below the BC. Accordingly, a French member with sniffer dog to upper site, two French members to the gorge area, three Nepalis to BC area and rest of the members to lower site were assigned. The team found 1 North Face duffle bag, 1 North Face tent, 1 Samsung camera, 1 sunglass, 1 bottle Scotch whiskey, 2 tables, 1 chair, and some clothing. Around 4 pm the team returned to Meta Camp. On Nov 3, the team headed for the the assigned sites around 9:15 am. Around 10 am the French ambassador, President of HRA, and a journalist arrived Meta in helicopter for site observation and information. The visiting team left Meta after an hour's discussion. As indicated by sniffer dogs in the BC and about 150m below the BC, snow digging started for about 6 hours. The digging was about 6 to 7 meters deep but did not find anything. Search work continued on Nov 3 around BC for about 5 hours but nothing was found. The day ended up bringing down the unidentified body, which was found on Nov 1, to Meta. The second search team left Meta in two groups for Kathmandu with the dead body. The search was called off due to snow conditions and approaching winter. The equipment used during the search was coffin, avalanche search stick, walkie-talkie, metallic search device, satellite phone, dead-man snow bar, snow shovel, dynamic and static ropes, binoculars, and a Honda generator. Churen Himal Trekking agency sent an 11-member team to Kang Guru on Nov 14 basically to collect goods left by the expedition on the mountain. The team found the body of Manilal Gurung (porter) on Nov 17 about 400m below the BC. The body was cremated in Meta few days later. The team also found 3 washing bowels and a steel plate. The team could not go beyond BC due to deep soft snow conditions. Churen Himal may send next team when snow condition gets better. Liaison officer of the expedition, D. B. Thapa, last contacted on Oct 24 from Pokhara according to Biswa Raj Nepal of Churen Himal. List of deceased Nepali expedition members and staff. 01 Iman Gurung Guide Laprak 6, Gorkha 02 Pema Nuru Sherpa Climbing Sherpa Gaurishankar 1, Dolakha 03 Ang Pasang Sherpa Climbing Sherpa Jubing 3, Solukhumbu 04 Sher Bahadur Gurung Cook Laprak 2, Gorkha 05 Chandra Man Gurung Kitchen Boy Laprak 1. Gorkha 06 Birlal Gurung Kitchen Boy Laprak 9, Gorkha 07 Manilal Gurung Kitchen Boy Laprak 2, Gorkha 08 Arun Raj Gurung Local Sherpa Gumda 7, Gorkha (Iman's brother in law) 09 Dulal(Mahila) Gurung Porter Laprak 9, Gorkha 10 Kam Bahadur Gurung Porter Laprak 3, Gorkha 11 Sahila Gurung Porter Laprak 6, Gorkha All the Gurungs listed above are related. The seven members French Kang Guru expedition led by Daniel Stolzenberg arrived Kathmandu on September 30 and left for mountain on Oct 3, 2005. Kang Guru is located in Manang District in mid-Western Nepal. Bodies of five French and 10 Nepalis are still buried under the snow somewhere on Kang Guru slopes. Biswa Raj Nepal of Churen Himal Trekking said that ENSA has set up a fund (Fund for Kang Guru Solidarity) to help the families of Nepali Kanguru victims. Initial monetary help has already been given to four families by ENSA Prof. Jean Coudray, who is in Kathmandu for trek. Coudray will give the fund to rest of the families on his return from Khumbu to KTM on Dec 6 at the French Embassy (each family will get Rs 39000+). E. Hawley interview with Jean Coudray, noted French climbing instructor - 8 Dec 2005 Q. I understand that this autumn's Kang Guru expedition placed their base camp at the normal base camp site. Some people have suggested that this is not a safe place for it. A. In this area, there is no place for base camp that is completely safe; there is no safer site for it than the one used. But then the "the cost of mountaineering is a little risk." There was heavy snowfall for 24 hours, and the resulting avalanching was made of powder snow, the worst kind of avalanche because this sort travels down a slope of 30 degress or more very fast -- 200 or more kms per hour -- and its "target" is impossible to predict: it can shift direction often. In this case, this kind of avalanche targeted base camp. Q. What is the compensation that is being paid to the Nepalese victim's families? A. Now the initial payment is Rs 40,000 (nearly US$550). The plan for the future is to open a bank account in Kathmandu into which funds will be paid from France, and to arrange a study of how many children each family has, their ages and so on, and their precise needs in such matters as education, medical expenses, perhaps building a home. Then based on need and on the amount of funds received in France, a small committee of French and Nepalese men based in Kathmandu will supervise disbursement of these funds and monitor how they are spent. At the same time, it is hoped that a sort of godfather or godmother for each child can be found in France to follow their godchild's progress and occasionally visit Nepal personally. Coudray, who is a member of the committee, has not yet visited the base camp site, but he has discussed it with previous a Kang Guru leader. He plans to go there early in 2006 in memory of his friends at ENSA (The National School for Skiing and Alpinism in Chamonix) who died there and to do some searching for bodies still buried under the avalanche debris.
Accidents 7 French and 11 Nepali staff killed by avalanche
Achievement -
Agency Churen Himal Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2456252
Year 2005
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face-nw ridge

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bruno Chardin M 1955 France Climber Beaufort, Savoie, France Ski resort manager Details Other expeditions
Bernard Constantin M 1944 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pierre Gregory Flematti M 1970 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Cable car technician Details Other expeditions
Jean-Francois Jube M 1947 France Climber Le Pradet, Cote d'Azur, France Advisor to ministry of sports Details Other expeditions
Jean-Paul Minette M 1954 France Climber Maison-Alfort, Val-de-Marne, France Attorney Details Other expeditions
Daniel Stolzenberg M 1945 France Leader Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide and instructor Details Other expeditions
Marie-Odile Stolzenberg F 1948 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Secretary Details Other expeditions
Iman Gurung M 1960 Nepal Sirdar Laprak, Gorkha - Details Other expeditions
Pema Nuru Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Dolakha - Details Other expeditions
Ang Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker Bumburi, Jubing, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sher Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Cook Laprak, Gorkha - Details Other expeditions
Chandra Man Gurung M - Nepal Kitchen Boy Laprak, Gorkha - Details Other expeditions
Bir Lal Gurung M - Nepal Kitchen Boy Laprak, Gorkha - Details Other expeditions
Mani Lal Gurung M - Nepal Kitchen Boy Laprak, Gorkha - Details Other expeditions
Arun Raj Gurung M - Nepal Porter Gumda, Gorkha - Details Other expeditions
Dulal (Mahila) Gurung M - Nepal Porter Laprak, Gorkha - Details Other expeditions
Kam Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Porter Laprak, Gorkha - Details Other expeditions
Sahila Gurung M - Nepal Porter Laprak, Gorkha - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KGUR05301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 80:408-409 (2006) -
KGUR05301 CLIM - - - 11:11 (Jan 2006) -
KGUR05301 CLIM - - - 25:75 (Mar 2007) -
KGUR05301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200640800/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Himal-Peri-Himal-Kang-Guru-Avalanche-Tragedy-to-French-Expedition - - -