Kangchung Shar | 2021 Kangchung La-NW Ridge from N up; NW Ridge-S Face down

A Czech Republic expedition to Kangchung Shar in 2021 via Kangchung La-NW Ridge from N up; NW Ridge-S Face down, led by Zdenek Hak. Summit reached on 28th April 2021. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10616
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KCHS21101
Peak ID KCHS
Year 2021
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 Kangchung La-NW Ridge from N up; NW Ridge-S Face down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czech Republic
Leaders Zdenek Hak
Sponsor Czech Kangchung Shar Expedition 2021
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach From Gokyo over Ngojumba and Gaunara Glaciers below Kangchung Shar
Basecamp Date 2021-04-23
Summit Date 2021-04-28
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 5
Total Days 4
Termination Date 2021-04-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6063
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(23/04,5200m),Biv1(27/04,5600m),Smt(28/04)
Route Notes BC 23/04 5200m Biv1 27/04 5600m (saddle between both Kangchung peaks) Smt 28/94 by Hak and Bansky Left BC on 27/04 (at beginning of climb, a traverse) Hired: 0 Oxygen: Not taken, not used Route: North Face of Kangchung La; round trip from Kangchung La to the top by the NW Ridge, abseiled down to Kangchung La, thendown southwards from Kangchung La to Dragnag village. Records: 1st traverse of the peak, 1st ascent of the North Face. Climbed by North Face to the saddle between KCHS and Kangchung Nup (or Cholo or Kangchung West/KCHN in HD), called Kangchung La. From there round trip to the top via the NW Ridge, already climbed by KCHS-843-01/KCHS-843-02 and KCHS-163-01*. Down from Kangchung La on the south side until Dragnag village. Route called "da’s heavenly travers", rated TD+, in the honour of the ex-chief of Czech Mountain Patrol in the Giant Mountains and Bánský's uncle, Adolf Kleps (12.9.1964-10.10.2017). Hak sick most of the trip, from Dole village on the way up. On return of the mountain, Hak contracted Covid.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st traverse, 1st ascent of the North Face
Agency Utmost Adventure
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2464594
Year 2021
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) kangchung la-nw ridge from n up; nw ridge-s face down

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Zdenek Hak M 1980 Czech Republic Leader Mala Skala, Czech Republic Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jaroslav Bansky M 1980 Czech Republic Climber Vrchlabi, Czech Republic Alpine rescue patrol Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KCHS21101 - - https://explorersweb.com/2021/05/05/first-ascent-kangchung-shar-north-face/ - - -
KCHS21101 AAJ Hak, Zdenek Kangchung Shar, North Face and Northwest Face/Ridge - 96:286-287 (2022) -
KCHS21101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216128 - - -