Kangchung Shar | 2016 Kangchung La-NW Ridge from S

A UK expedition to Kangchung Shar in 2016 via Kangchung La-NW Ridge from S, led by Ben O'Connor Croft. Summit reached on 6th November 2016. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9298
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KCHS16301
Peak ID KCHS
Year 2016
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 Kangchung La-NW Ridge from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Ben O'Connor Croft
Sponsor British Khangchung/UIAA Peak Expedition 2016
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Ecuador
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 2016-11-06
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6063
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(5200m),Smt(06/11)
Route Notes First [Official] Ascent of Khangchung Shar (UIAA) 6063m, Mahalangur Himal, Nepal On November 6th at 11:30 am KTM time the team of Ben O'Connor Croft (UK), Joshua Jarrin (Ecuador), Masha Gordon (UK), Ang Phurba (Nepal) and Pasang Bhote (Nepal) made a first ascent of Khangchung Shar (6063m). The peak was on the list 104 new summits approved for climbing by the government of Nepal in 2014. The route named "Laughing Gargoyle" - because of the large hanging ominous block on the summit - (550m, TD, III/IV) was approached from the Khangchung La pass that lies between the Khangchung and Cholo peaks. The team left base camp at 5200m at 1am and reached the summit at 11:30 am. From the col the team followed the 40 degree snow slope towards a ramp. They headed left up steeper snow and ice, passing small rock steps heading towards the ridge. Arriving at shoulder of the ridge with a piton underneath a block to belay, they then climbed up the ridge until steepness pushed them back onto the face past a rock ramp choked with sugar snow with protection out left. Joining the dots between snow slopes to find rock protection in sometimes very chossey bands was the order of the day. Heading right along the ledge and avoiding a loose chimney above the belay, the team arrived to an airy traverse before turning onto a snow slope between the two summits. Not too technical a climb, but with enough exposed sections and some careful rock "management" to make it a serious climb none the less. Ben O'Connor Croft is an aspirant guide, Joshua Jarrin is an UIAGM guide and Masha Gordon is a founder of GRIT&ROCK. This expedition was organised by Himalayan Guides Nepal Treks and Expedition Pvt. Ltd. Iswari Paudel Himalayan Guides Nepal
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Guides
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460300
Year 2016
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) kangchung la-nw ridge from s

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ben Ashley O'Connor Croft M 1984 UK Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Joshua Rosendo Jarrin Molina M 1986 Ecuador Climber Quito, Ecuador Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maria Vladimirovna (Masha) Gordon F 1974 UK/Russia Climber London, England Company director Details Other expeditions
Paul James Taylor M 1969 UK Climber Hoddlesden, Lancashire, England Garage owner Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M 1985 Nepal H-A Worker Khembalung, Yaphu-9, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Bhote M 1973 Nepal H-A Worker Chepuwa-1, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KCHS16301 - - http://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/masha-gordon-four-others-summit-nepal-virgin-peak-khangchung-shar/ - - -
KCHS16301 AAJ Gordon, Masha Kangchung Shar, Northwest Ridge from South, First Official Ascent - 91:327 (2017) -
KCHS16301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214219/Kangchung-Shar-Northwest-Ridge-from-the-South-First-Official-Ascent - - -