Kangchung Nup | 2022 HW Face

A Japan expedition to Kangchung Nup in 2022 via HW Face, led by Toshiyuki Yamada. Summit reached on 23rd April 2022. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10831
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KCHN22101
Peak ID KCHN
Year 2022
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 HW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Toshiyuki Yamada
Sponsor JAC Tokai Kangchung Nup Expedition 2022
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Namche->Renjo La->Gokyo
Basecamp Date 2022-04-12
Summit Date 2022-04-23
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 11
Total Days 15
Termination Date 2022-04-27
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6043
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/04,4750m),ABC(14/04,4980m),Biv1(22/04,5500m),Smt(23/04),Biv2(23/04,5600m)
Route Notes Approach: Lukla, Namche, Thame, Renjo pass (5300m), Gokyo. BC 13/04 4750m (Gokyo) ABC 14/04 4980m Biv1 22/04 5500m Biv2 23/04 5600m at the col between Kangchung Sar and Nup (in descent). Smt 23/04 by both members at 4 pm. 04/04: KTM 07/04: Lukla 09/04: Namche Bazar 10/04: Thame 12/04: Gokyo (via Renjo Pass). Tried to set up BC same as British did in 2019 (Paul Ramsden’s attempt), but global warming made glacier really bad to traverse. So Gokyo was chosen as the BC. 14/04: ABC set afoot of the NW Face. Was difficult to cross the glacier. ABC would be used for gear stashing and scouting the wall. After 8 continuous days of walking, decided to take some rest days. Acclimatization up to 5500m on the south side of the mountain, with bouldering session at 4800m. Made a reconnaissance of the descent on the south side of the peak, not a descent line to Chola Pass. Climbing details (22-24 April): First intended a line straight at the center of the North Face (Ramsden’s attempt in 2019), abandoned due to poor ice conditions. Went further to the right onto the NW Face, in the vicinity of the lines attempted in 2014 by a Czech party (Martin Klestinec, David Kovarik, Tomas Svoboda) up to 5900m, then in 2016 by a Japanese party (Yasushi Yamanoi, Takaaki Furuhata, Manabu Toyama) up to 5650m. 22/04: the previous night, duo slept afoot of the face, coming from Gokyo. At the end of this first climbing day, bivouacked at 5500m. 23/04: climbed 11 pitches on a mixed wall up to the summit’s shoulder. From there reached the summit glacier in 3 pitches, then crossed the summit knife-edge for 3 more pitches (“The summit ridge was longer than we expected”), reaching the summit at 4 pm. They descended to the col between KCHN and KCHS, where they bivouacked. The hardest day. 24/04: went back down to Gokyo. 27/04: packed ABC and went down to Gokyo. 28/04: Gokyo to Namche. New line: 900m/ED/M5/WI4. Team had great conditions for the climb. Left ABC/BC on 27/04. Sherpas: None Oxygen: Not taken, not used Records: 1st ascent of the NW Face
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of NW Face
Agency Khangri Trek
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2463920
Year 2022
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) hw face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Toshiyuki Yamada M 1985 Japan Leader Calgary, Alberta Alpine & hiking guide Details Other expeditions
Takeshi Tani M 1980 Japan Climber Canmore, Alberta Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KCHN22101 - - https://explorersweb.com/breaking-kangchung-nup-summit/ - - -
KCHN22101 - - http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web22s/newswire-kangchung-nup-northwest-face-first-ascent - - -
KCHN22101 - - https://gripped.com/news/north-face-of-famous-nepal-peak-kangchung-shar-climbed/ - - -
KCHN22101 - - https://www.dreamwanderlust.com/news/climbing-big-walls-is-awesome-takeshi-tani-after-the-first-ascent-of-the-northwest-face-of-kangchung-nup - - -
KCHN22101 HJ Yamada, Toshiyuki Northwest Face of Kangchung Nup - 77:126-131 (2022) -
KCHN22101 AAJ Tani, Takeshi Kangchung Nup, Northwest Face - 97:335-336 (2023) -
KCHN22101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216340 - - -