Karyolung | 1985 NE Face

A S Korea expedition to Karyolung in 1985 via NE Face, led by Kim Young-Ho. Summit reached on 25th January 1986. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 236
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KARY85401
Peak ID KARY
Year 1985
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders Kim Young-Ho
Sponsor Korean-Nepalese Joint Karyolung Winter Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Junbesi
Basecamp Date 1986-01-08
Summit Date 1986-01-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 21
Termination Date 1986-01-29
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather, manpower depleted
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/01,4100m),C1(10/01,4900m),C2(15/01,5600m),xxx(25/01,6400m)
Route Notes BC northwest of Lum Teng (between Lum Teng and point 4698 on Schneider map) C1 at same site as Japanese 1982 on narrow ridge bet "g & G of Karyolung Glacier C2 after traverse to northeast from C1 to site E of "H" of Shorang Himal High point at north of summit. Climb started late because leader had accident during autumn trek. Left KTM only on 3 Jan. Three summit bids: 20 Jan on Japanese route to 6200m, but blue ice turned party back. 22 Jan on right side of Japanese route to north of summit, but again turned back this time by 3m wide crevasse and all to BC. 23 Jan Ko and Ahn to C1, followed 24 Jan Pasang and Ang Tsering to C2. 25 Jan 4:00 am Ko and 2 Sherpas set out for summit and at overhang near crevasse Ko took hours to make route and Ang Tshering turned back early evening and in descent serac hit Ko's arm. 26 Jan snowfall and all BC waiting better weather but now Pasang and Ang Tsering not in good condition and manpower depleted, bad weather.
Accidents Ko arm broken; leader's feet not recovered fully from trekking accident; sirdar sick and did no climbing
Achievement 1st Korean attempt on mountain
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449026
Year 1985
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Chang-Yeul Ahn M 1950 S Korea BC Manager Incheon, S Korea Clerk, construction company Details Other expeditions
Young-Ho Kim M 1958 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Manager, art video shop Details Other expeditions
Heung-Lyul Ko M 1961 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Staff, mountain equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Nun-Suk Park M 1958 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Life insurance company employee Details Other expeditions
Ang Tshering Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KARY85401 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 60:237 (1986) -
KARY85401 MM - - - 110:11 (Jul 1986) -
KARY85401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198623702/Asia-Nepal-Dorje-Lhakpa - - -