Karyolung | 1982 NE Face

A Japan expedition to Karyolung in 1982 via NE Face, led by Hajime Nagatoshi. Summit reached on 24th December 1982. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2070
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KARY82401
Peak ID KARY
Year 1982
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hajime Nagatoshi
Sponsor Nepal-Japan Joint Exp to Mt. Karyolung (Kokudo Chiriin AC)
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla
Basecamp Date 1982-12-09
Summit Date 1982-12-24
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 15
Total Days 20
Termination Date 1982-12-29
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6530
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/12,4300m),C1(16/12,5050m),C2(21/12,5670m),Smt(24/12)
Route Notes Yamada - 6 Jan 83 Route was same as 1982 autumn. Saw North Ridge route, which if preferred would have taken long time to make its BC and this route already known to Pemba Tshering who was autumn 1982 summiter also. No avalanches, no accidents or frostbite. 24 Dec weather was snowfall and very strong winds. 4 more members in C2 for another summit attack but decided too dangerous because fresh snow avalanches possible and safety was first consideration. 3 Sherpas only above BC = 3 Sherpas members Did not use oxygen at all. All camp dates and altitudes given by Ministry of Tourism correct. Sharma, Tourism - 4 Jan 83 Karyolung joint expedition 24 Dec: 1) Ang Kami Sherpa, 30 2) Pemba Tshering Sherpa, 38 3) Akira Yamada, 1950, surveyor, Toyama 4) Katsuichi Tanaka, 1954, Miyagi to summit. Started from C2 5670m (established 21 Dec) at 6:00 am and on top 12:30 pm. Stayed on top 20 mins and 12:50 pm started descent; 15:00 arrived C2. 25 Dec they returned to BC at 4300m (9 Dec). C1 5050m 16 Dec All members well; leave BC soon after 25 Dec. 6 Japanese and 3 Nepalese members. Doi - 30 Nov 82 Fly to Lukla 4 Dec is plan but baggage not yet in KTM, so probably delay 4 days to BC from Lukla. Route may be North Ridge, maybe NE Face (same as aut 1982) if conditions not good on North Ridge; think will not use same route as autumn. BC at 4800m northwest of Lumding Kharka for North Ridge route and C1 5700m C2 6200m 1st summit attack 23 Dec if leave 2nd " " 30 Dec 3rd " " 3 Jan Return to KTM 13 Jan from Lukla; must return to Japan on 16 Jan 4 Sherpas including 3 members above BC Nepal-Japan Joint Expedition to Mt Karyolung. Medical oxygen only
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447895
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hiromitsu Doi M 1954 Japan Climber Sakura, Ibaraki, Japan Surveyor with Geographical Survey Institute Details Other expeditions
Hajime Nagatoshi M 1940 Japan Leader Sakura, Ibaraki, Japan Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Koichi Omono M 1953 Japan Climber Yatabe, Ibaraki, Japan Surveyor with Geographical Survey Institute Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Osanai M 1960 Japan Climber Yatabe, Ibaraki, Japan Surveyor with Geographical Survey Institute Details Other expeditions
Katsuichi Tanaka M 1954 Japan Climber Sendai, Miyagi, Japan Surveyor with Geographical Survey Institute Details Other expeditions
Akira Yamada M 1950 Japan Climbing Leader Toyama-shi, Toyama, Japan Surveyor with Geographical Survey Institute Details Other expeditions
Ang Kami Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker/Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M 1943 Nepal H-A Worker/Climber Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KARY82401 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 57:231 (1983) -
KARY82401 MM - - - 90:9 (Mar 1983) -
KARY82401 IWA - - - 105:200 (1984) -
KARY82401 IWA - - - 105:39 (1984) -
KARY82401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198323105/Asia-Nepal-Karyolung-Winter-Ascent - - -