Karyolung | 1982 W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Karyolung in 1982 via W Ridge, led by Yoshiyuki Inoue. Summit reached on 31st October 1982. 14 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2056
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KARY82301
Peak ID KARY
Year 1982
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 NE Face
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yoshiyuki Inoue
Sponsor Nepal Police-Hyogo Worker's Alpine Federation Joint Exped
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 1st,2nd
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Nepal
Approach Kirantichap->BC
Basecamp Date 1982-10-09
Summit Date 1982-10-31
Summit Time 1345
Summit Days 22
Total Days 26
Termination Date 1982-11-04
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6530
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 13
Summit Members 13
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC1(02/10,4500m),BC2(09/10,4800m),C1(15/10,5300m),C2(28/10,5900m),Smt(31/10,01/11)
Route Notes 1st BC - 4500m, 2 Oct - for West Ridge 2nd BC - 4800m, 9 Oct - for NE Face Iwasa - 11 Nov 82 Route was West Ridge. BC at 4500m on 2 Oct. No C1 on this route. Went to 5200m scouting route and decided rock band on buttress 200m overhang too difficult. 2nd BC at 4800m on 9 Oct for NE Face C1 5300m - 15 Oct C2 5900m - 28 Oct Difficulties: blue ice climbing icefall between C1 and C2 and much new snow very deep (waist) many avalanches between C1 and C2 so always crossed this area early am. Inoue hit by avalanche tried for summit on 30 Oct and reached 6400m in smaller summit party but could not go on. Next day brought more support. Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov82 2nd ascent by Nov 1 head constable Karma Bahadur Gurung '54 and 5 Japanese: Fujii, Nakao, Miss Nishimura, Makahara Left BC 4 Nov C2 28 Oct 5600m Fujii & Nakao - 8 Nov 82 1st BC at 4500m near 4593 and Dudh Kund Lake (southwest of mountain) in Sept 2nd BC 4800m east of mountain 9 or 10 Oct C1 - 5300m, 15 or 16 Oct C2 - 5950m, 27 or 28 Oct Route NE Face Summit - 31 Oct - 8 men as ministry said 1 Nov - Fujii Nakahara Nakao Miss Nishimura Miss Yuda Col. Gurung Summiters = all 8 Japanese members and all 5 Nepalese climbing members (6th=doctor). Much snow made difficult and icefall had many crevasses, some avalanches which sent 1 Inoue member 10m down fixed ropes but Ok. No accidents on frostbite. 3 Sherpas above BC. 28 and 29 Oct route making up blue ice and waist deep snow Inoue left KTM 2-3 days ago - other 5 will arrive KTM tomorrow ex-Lukla. Sharma, Tourism - 3 Nov 82 Karyolung (formerly unclimbed). Route changed to NE Ridge from South Ridge because of difficulties in placing camps on South Ridge. C1, 17 Oct - 5000m C2, 28 Oct - 5600m 29th worked on route Attempted summit on 30 Oct but high wind returned to C2, who don't know. 31 Oct. 1) Co-leader Yogendra Thapa, police inspector, 34 years 2) Baburam Pun, inspector 3) Hiroshi Nishie, '59 4) Leader Yoshiyuki Inoue 5) Masatoshi Iwasa, '54 Time from C2 not known. On summit 13:45 hours. Police put Khukuri on top and party put flags of Nepal and Japan. Returned to C2 and all others to BC same day - 4 arrive BC 20:00 hours. 31 Oct 1) Havildar Gore Tamang, '52, head constable 2) Gita Bahadur Joshi, head constable 3) Sirdar Pemba Tshering Sherpa Reached summit also in second assault - time not known; another attempt expected. 1 Nov - remaining member left C2 in am to summit but results not known at BC. Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82 2 Oct near Dudh Kund 4200m BC. Will start climb from 3 Oct but facing route problem and will need extra time or to change route to NE Face. Iwasa & Nakahara - 18 Sept 82 7 members now in KTM - 2-11 Sept 5-17 Sept 1 will come 5 Oct - leader Inoue 7 leave 20 Sept by truck to Kirantichap - 8 days to BC at 4000-4300m on Dudh Kund glacier route = SW Ridge or North Ridge - both rock ridges, very steep (maybe 45') - difficult mountain 2 camps above BC - C2 about 6200m 6 Nepalese members from police 3 Sherpas above BC Med oxygen only Arrive BC about 27 Sept Summit last week Oct - 1 month BC to top Hotel Shangri La on return to KTM early Nov. Inoue arrive KTM 3 or 4 Nov, others few days later. Shiro Kurouchi - 10 Aug 82 Route maybe from west - Nepalese member now doing recce - back in KTM in few days 12 + Japanese and 6 Nepalis - Yogendra Thapa ? Sherpas - Nepalis decide KTM to BC about 1 week including truck to Jiri Leave KTM 23-24 Sept = 1 month to climb Nepal '75 attempt only attempt on Karyolung Kurouchi only Japanese in KTM (arrived 8/10) - returns to Japan soon and back to KTM with other Japan members 10 Sept.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447841
Year 1982
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

14 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M 1943 Nepal Sirdar Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Sohei Fuji M 1952 Japan Climber Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Yoshiyuki Inoue M 1948 Japan Co-Leader Amagasaki, Hyogo, Japan Postman (mail carrier) Details Other expeditions
Masatoshi Iwasa M 1954 Japan Deputy Leader Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Public servant (city government) Details Other expeditions
Makio Nakahara M 1956 Japan Climber Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Public servant (city government) Details Other expeditions
Yasuhiko Nakao M 1957 Japan Climber Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Architectural engineer Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Nishie M 1954 Japan Climber Amagasaki, Hyogo, Japan Factory worker Details Other expeditions
Makiyo Nishimura F 1956 Japan Climber Kyoto, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions
Hisami (Kumi) Yada F 1951 Japan Climber Kobe, Hyogo, Japan Medical laboratory technician Details Other expeditions
Yogendra Bahadur Thapa M 1948 Nepal Co-Leader - Inspector Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Babu Ram Pun M - Nepal Climber - Inspector Nepal Police Details Other expeditions
Gore Tamang M - Nepal Climber Suwarapani, Gorkha, Gandaki Zone Head constable Details Other expeditions
Gita Bahadur Joshi M 1958 Nepal Climber Taluwa, Okhaldhunga Head constable Details Other expeditions
Karna Bahadur Gurung M - Nepal Climber Gumda, Gorkha, Gandaki Police head constable Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KARY82301 AAJ Guha, Kamal K. - - 57:231 (1983) -
KARY82301 MM - - - 89:12 (Jan 1983) -
KARY82301 IWA - - - 95:197 (1983) -
KARY82301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198323104/Asia-Nepal-Karyolung - - -