Kanti Himal | 2024 SW Ridge

A USA expedition to Kanti Himal in 2024 via SW Ridge, led by Spencer Gray. Summit reached on 21st October 2024. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11661
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANT24301
Peak ID KANT
Year 2024
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Spencer Gray
Sponsor Magical Nepal Takla Khang Expedition 2024
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2024-10-06
Summit Date 2024-10-21
Summit Time 1000
Summit Days 15
Total Days 18
Termination Date 2024-10-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6850
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 6
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Takla Kang (TAKL-243-01)
Campsites BC(06/10,4700m),ABC(14/10,5200m),Biv1...Biv6,Smt(21/10)
Route Notes Climbed new route on Kaqur Kangri in Nov 2024 (via SW Ridge). Notes from Spencer Gray: Approach: Gamgadhi to Takla Khola to Mayongthan Khola. Since there hadn’t been a report of a climbing expedition to this valley since 1998, and we had no photos of the lower half of the mountains, we were unsure what would be unclimbable, if anything. The only prior expedition and report suggested the potential for impassable seracs and walls, but only an in-person reconnaissance would confirm the possibilities. We examined Takla Kang, surrounding unnamed peaks, as well as Kaqur Kangri (Kanti Himal). Takla Kang had more obviously loose rock on several potential lines, with more significant melt-out, than the southwest arete of Kanti Himal, which seemed objectively relatively safe from overhead hazard, and with sound rock. Arrived BC on October 6, 4700m We climbed alpine-style, October 15-21, and did not set use set camps, after sleeping at the mountain’s base proper at 5200m. We bivouacked six nights total (in a small tent), two of those nights (nights 1 and 2) at the same site due to a stove failure that required retrieving a backup stove cached at the base. Had the stove failed on one of the subsequent days, we probably would not have summitted. Summited on October 21, ~10 am, Spencer Gray and Ryan Griffiths. Stayed 10 on summit, then descended all the way to base camp. Alpine-style, no fixed ropes used to climb (on day two of the climb, we fixed our two lead ropes (60m half/double ropes) in order to rappel a cliff to retrieve a backup stove at the mountain’s base and then returned to our bivouac the same day, bringing both ropes back up with us). No Sherpas, no oxygen. Used mules to carry suppliesl to base camp. Matt Zia ascended the first day to 5800m and chose to descend after reassessing his motivation. Devendra Tamang and Budhi Tamang accompanied us to base camp (from Kathmandu, and their homes in the Rolwaling region) as a logistics coordinator (fixer)/translator and cook, respectively.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Magical Nepal
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference True
Primary ID TAKL24301
Checksum 2464159
Year 2024
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Spencer Micheal Gray M 1986 USA Leader Great Falls, Montana Energy professional Details Other expeditions
Ryan Reichert Griffiths M 1998 USA Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Matthew Brooks Zia M 1992 USA Climber Bozeman, Montana - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.