Kangchenjunga South | 1978 SW Face-S Summit

A Poland expedition to Kangchenjunga South in 1978 via SW Face-S Summit, led by Piotr Mlotecki. Summit reached on 19th May 1978. 30 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2129
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANS78101
Peak ID KANS
Year 1978
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-S Summit
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Piotr Mlotecki
Sponsor Polish South Kangchenjunga Expedition 1978
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach Dharan->Yalung Glacier (BC)
Basecamp Date 1978-04-11
Summit Date 1978-05-19
Summit Time 1415
Summit Days 38
Total Days 51
Termination Date 1978-06-01
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8476
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 3000
Total Members 27
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed illegally Kangchenjunga Central (KANC-781-01)
Campsites BC(11/04,5500m),C1(16/04,6200m),C2(24/04,6600m),C3(27/04,7150m),C4(08/05,7600m),Smt(19/05)
Route Notes SR Sharma, Tourism - 2 Aug 78 Leader of Kangchenjunga expedition banned from climbing in Nepal for 5 years from June 1978 as penalty for his expedition's climbing Kangchenjunga South and Central peaks without official permission (these summits not on permitted list). Dr. Branski - 16 June 78 Poles climbed South Summit of Kangchenjunga via SW Face and Central Summit via southwest side. Made a 2nd attempt on Central Summit on 25 May, by Marek Janas and Marek Malatynski; reached nearly 8400m. Brady & Tobin - 7 June 78 Eugeniusz Chobak and Wojciech Wroz to South Summit on 19 May. Wojciech Branski, Zygmunt Heinrich and Kazimierz Olech from Spanish C4 about 7600m to Central Summit 22 May. Weather pretty good all the time although storm between 19 and 22 May - snow and wind. South Summit much more difficult climb technically than Central Summit. Chobak and Wroz only members capable of climbing this from C4. Many members not really climbers - another climbers and administrator. Brady and Tobin reached Poles C4 but not high enough in Club to get summit chance. Others in team in KTM about 13 June. Jean Brady - 7 June 78 Route of same difficulty from BC to Great Shelf. Fixed rope almost all way from C1 to C3 put in by 2 Poles. Used total over 3000m fixed rope. Real difficult climbing above C4 to South Summit: 2 barriers of rock to be climbed and steep ice and snow - West Face of South Summit. Didn't stay over 1 hour in each C4 because oxygen needed to sleep there, carried load for Poles to each C4 - "we were sort of Sherpas." Fixed ropes put in as high as 8200m on South Summit day before ascent to top. Spaniards tried only one summit bid. Should be in KTM 9 or 10 June. Neither expedition had accident, real frostbite or avalanche. Tobin and Brady could have gone to summit if Poles had permitted. "Carl's more disappointed then James." "It was a Polish expedition" with a shrug of shoulders. SR Sharma, Tourism 23 May 78 Kangchenjunga South 8490m: Eugeniusz Chrobak and Wojciech Wroz reached summit 19 May at 14:00 hrs and safely returned to lower camps. Expedition leaving BC 30th to return to KTM. All well. Dr Branski - 26 Feb 78 2 in KTM now, Ship has arrived in Bombay and 5 men there. If lucky should disembark first and leave 28 Feb with baggage to Biratnagar. BC on Yalung Glacier, same site as British: 5000m+; route not sure: will see when get to mountain. Leave Dharan about 10 March, reach BC about 24 March, summit mid-May. Really want to climb South summit, probably will not attempt main summit. Using oxygen for climbing. 5 HA Sherpas including sirdar Ila Tsering 6-7 high camps Kangchenjunga 1978 The Polish Himalaya Expedition on Kangchenjunga led by Piotr Mlotecki was organized by Polish Club Gorski. The Expedition was 37 persons strong including 10 Sherpas. According to the permission granted by His Majesty's Government the main goal of the Expedition was to climb Kangchenjunga by the new route from the south side. This goal was not realised completely. As the bottom of the spur leading to south ridge was threatened by constant serac-fall from the Talung Cwm and Yalung Peak we were forced to choose traditional way leading towards the Great Shelf. From there it was possible to obtain a secure access to South Ridge. The Expedition met with first problems already during caravan, which started from Dharan Bazar on March 14, 1978. Because of very severe weather conditions (heavy snowfall in the region behind Yamphudin) and permanent lack of porters carrying the loads of the expedition which was possible only in groups, one after another, 10 first loads reached the base camp on April 10 and the last one in April 27. The Base Camp was established at the altitude of 5200m. On the way to Great Shelf three camps were set up. The first one was established on April 16 at 6200m altitude, second one on April 24 at 6600m altitude and the third one on April 27 at 7150m altitude. Proceeding towards main Kangchenjunga from the Great Shelf through Camp 4 the south Summit (altitude 8490m reached on May 19 by Eugeniusz Chrobak and Wojciech Wroz) and Central Summit (altitude 8469m reached on May 22 by Wojciech Branski, Andrzej Heinrich and Kazimierz Olech) of the mountain were scaled. In both cases the climbers used Polish Oxygen apparatus and French oxygen cyclinders. Heavy weather condition going worse from day to day (strong wind and snowstorms) as well as forecast of coming monsoon caused the further attempts towards main Kangchenjunga summit from the south side to be abandoned. Technical difficulties on the way forced us to install fixed ropes. It should be underlined that the Sherpa team performed a very good work. Two of them should be distinguished first of all Lhakpa Gyalu, who twice above worked above 8000m and Mingma Gyalzen who once crossed 8000m. The expedition's return way to Ilam via Yamphudin was met with no difficulties.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446211
Year 1978
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face-s summit

Members

30 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Piotr Mlotecki M 1925 Poland Leader Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Kazimierz Olech M 1928 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Mechanical engineer Details Other expeditions
Wojciech Branski M 1935 Poland Climber - Physicist Details Other expeditions
Zygmunt Andrzej (Zyga) Heinrich M 1937 Poland Climber Krakow, Poland Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
James Andrew Brady M 1952 USA Climber Alaska Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Eugeniusz (Genek) Chrobak M 1939 Poland Climber Police, Poland Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Stanislaw Czerwinski M 1948 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Economist Details Other expeditions
Marek Janas M 1934 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Wieslaw Klaput M 1946 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Marek Malatynski M 1947 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Przemyslaw Nowacki M 1948 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Jozef Olszewski M 1939 Poland Climber Zakopane, Poland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Zbigniew Pawlowski M 1944 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Pietraszek M 1940 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Marek Rogalski M 1945 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Jan Serafin M 1934 Poland Exp Doctor Warsaw, Poland Physician Details Other expeditions
Grzegorz Siekierski M - Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Skalski M 1939 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Technician Details Other expeditions
Andrzej Sobolewski M 1931 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Zbigniew Stasyszyn M 1936 Poland Climber Warsaw, Poland Photographer Details Other expeditions
Stanley Carl Tobin M 1953 USA Climber Alaska Student Details Other expeditions
Wojciech Wroz M 1942 Poland Climber Poznan, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Nancy Jean Brady F 1952 USA Member Alaska Teacher Details Other expeditions
Bernard Uchmanski M 1936 Poland Cameraman Pruszkow, Poland Engineer Details Other expeditions
Magdalena Wawrzniak F 1957 Poland Member Warsaw, Poland Student Details Other expeditions
Szymon Wdowiak M 1934 Poland Film Team Warsaw, Poland Geologist Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Wesolowski M 1921 Poland Member Warsaw, Poland Economist Details Other expeditions
Ila Tshering Sherpa M 1936 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Gyalu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Mingma Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

11 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANS78101 AAJ - - - 53:266 (1979) -
KANS78101 HJ Malatynski, Marek Kangchenjunga South and Central - 36:6-13 (1978-79) -
KANS78101 AJ Malatynski, Marek Kangchenjunga South and Central 1978 - 85:43-49 (1980) -
KANS78101 - Wroz, Wojciech Swieta Gora Sikkimu Wydawnictwo 'Sport i Turystyka', Warsaw - W247
KANS78101 - Mlotecki, Piotr Dwie Kangczendzongi Wydawnictwo 'Sport i Turystyka', Warsaw - M441
KANS78101 MM - - - 62:11 (Jul 1978) -
KANS78101 MM - - - 65:11 (Jan 1979) -
KANS78101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197926601/Asia-Nepal-Disciplinary-Measures-Taken-by-the-Nepalese-Government - - -
KANS78101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/36/3/kangchenjunga-south-and-central/ - - -
KANS78101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1980_files/AJ%201980%2043-49%20Malatynski%20Kangch.pdf - - -
KANS78101 MM - - - 63:11 (Jul 1978) -