Kangchenjunga | 1998 N Face

A UK expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1998 via N Face, led by Chris Comerie. Summit reached on 18th October 1998. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3219
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG98301
Peak ID KANG
Year 1998
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Chris Comerie
Sponsor Kangchenjunga 1998 Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-09-07
Summit Date 1998-10-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 41
Total Days 47
Termination Date 1998-10-24
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7400m due to stormy weather
High Point (m) 7400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 1200
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/09,5000m),C1(11/09,5300m),C2(16/09,5900m),C3(09/10,6900m),C4(18/10,7400m),xxx(18/10,7400m)
Route Notes BC at Pangpema C1 at glacier C3 at North Col C4 in snow hole just below the Castle on North Ridge High point at C4. Climb and very difficult above C2 and took one week longer than expected to occupy C3 and this week "probably cost us the summit" because when ready for summit attempt weather had become "absolutely appalling." Arrived at C4 site on 17th Oct and partly dug snow cave. High winds and fresh snowfall and much sprindrift, wind slabs and deep snow on ridge; "not a nice place." Spent night of 18th at C4 but same storm hadn't really stopped and by midday 19th weather got worse with extreme cold, high winds and at times no visibility. Down to C3 on exhausting descent. 20th to BC in one day and now no time left after having extended climbing period by four days. Had lost several days on walking because of heavy monsoon. Bryan and Comerie did most of high climbing because others poorly acclimatized.
Accidents Ian Arnold foot fracture; others acclimatized poorly
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Excursions
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453688
Year 1998
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ian Arnold M 1956 UK Climber Huddersfield, W Yorkshire, England School teacher Details Other expeditions
Mark Alexander Bryan M 1965 UK Climber Limehills, Southland, New Zealand Veterinary surgeon Details Other expeditions
Christopher G. (Chris) Comerie M 1951 UK Leader East Bridgford, Nottingham, England Builder Details Other expeditions
Gordon Dalgarno M 1965 UK Climber Gawthorpe, W Yorkshire, England Auditor Details Other expeditions
Christopher (Gilbert) Howarth M 1956 UK Climber Leeds, W Yorkshire, England Electrical technician Details Other expeditions
Ian (Ferguson) Miller M 1965 UK Climber Glasgow, Scotland Veterinary surgeon Details Other expeditions
David (Martyn) Turton M 1954 UK Climber Cockermouth, Cumbria, England Teacher Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG98301 HJ Comerie, Chris Kangchenjunga 1998 - 56:50-55 (2000) -
KANG98301 AAJ Currin, Simon - - 73:379 (1999) -
KANG98301 HIGH - - - 198:46-47 (May 1999) -
KANG98301 NZAJ Bryan, Mark Lightweight and Losing Weight on the NW Face of Kangchenjunga - 51:58-61 (1999) -
KANG98301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199937901/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-Himal-Kangchenjunga-Ramtang-And-Medical-Research - - -
KANG98301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/56/6/kangchenjunga-1998/ - - -