Kangchenjunga | 1998 SW Face

A China expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1998 via SW Face, led by Samdrup. Summit reached on 9th May 1998. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2636
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG98104
Peak ID KANG
Year 1998
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality China
Leaders Samdrup
Sponsor China-Tibet Expedition to 14 Mountains of 8000m
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 48th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-04-08
Summit Date 1998-05-09
Summit Time 1120
Summit Days 31
Total Days 35
Termination Date 1998-05-13
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 850
Total Members 10
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(08/04,4870m),ABC(13/04,5400m),C1(17/04,6080m),C2(02/05,6630m),C3(04/05,7100m),C4(06/05,7600m),Smt(09/05)
Route Notes BC at lower than normal site (Khumbukarna Glacier) ABC at normal BC. Mountain very difficult and weather bad and strong winds especially on top on summit. Team had to make BC lower than normal. Leader and doctor had to go up to ABC because porters refused to go higher and leader and doctor helped carry loads to ABC; interpreter also twice carried loads. C2 occupied only on 2 May because heavy snowfall in April. Summit party went to top together; left C4 at 2:30 am and on top 11:20 in very strong wind. Did not climb via col but chose slightly shorter route. Spent only 15 minutes on top because of wind. Slept in C3 9th May, where arrived 6:30 pm; went to C3 because C4 on sloping surface and not much space there. 3 summiters got frostbitten cheeks and 2 frostbitten toes and fingers but nothing very serious. On ascent at 8300m 1 member hit by big avalanche and which took his hat and gloves down with it but he was not carried down or hurt (not even frostbitten); 2 teams roped together and man hit was protected by other's belay: avalanche started by team above him - snow 75cm deep from C2 to C4. 21 May 98 - Hans Kammerlander: his teammate Seeber watched Tibetans on this summit day through powerful binoculars and believe they stopped 50 meters below summit. Kammerlander is sure not all reached summit, maximum 3 did. 25 May 98 - Fausto De Stefani believes Tibetans used oxygen but did not actually see them doing so. Had good supply of bottles and masks at high camp.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st Chinese summiters
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453481
Year 1998
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Akebu (Akbu, Akbulnut) M 1962 China Climber Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Dachung (Daqiong) M 1963 China Climber Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Gyalbu (Jiabu) M 1959 China Climber Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Lossang Yonden M 1955 China Exp Doctor Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Lhotse (Luoze, Lodue) M 1962 China Climber Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tashi (Bianba Zhaxi) M 1965 China Climber Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Ren Na M 1966 China Climber Shigatse, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Samdrup (Samdruk) M 1953 China Leader Shigatse, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Tsering Dorje (Cerin Duoji) M 1960 China Climber Namling Dzong, Tibet, China Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Purbu Tsering M - China Interpreter Lhasa, Tibet, China Alpinist, China Tibet Mountaineering Assoc. Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG98104 HIGH - - - 193:19 (Dec 1998) -