Kangchenjunga | 1998 N Face (Japanese 1980 rte)
A USA expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1998 via N Face (Japanese 1980 rte), led by Gary Pfisterer. Summit reached on 18th May 1998. 6 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2637 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KANG98103 |
| Peak ID | KANG |
| Year | 1998 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face (Japanese 1980 rte) |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Gary Pfisterer |
| Sponsor | International Kangchenjunga 98 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 51st |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Canada, UK |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1998-04-05 |
| Summit Date | 1998-05-18 |
| Summit Time | 1130 |
| Summit Days | 43 |
| Total Days | 46 |
| Termination Date | 1998-05-21 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8586 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 400 |
| Total Members | 6 |
| Summit Members | 4 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(05/04,5100m),Temp(08/04,5400m),C1(10/04,5800m),C2(15/04,6800m),C3(03/05,7400m),C4(17/05,7900m),Smt(18/05) |
| Route Notes | 5 members made summit attempt on 18th. Left C4 at 4:30 am and Pratt on top 11:30 am, Shaw at 12:00, Horvath 12:30 and Harrison at 2:30 pm having stayed with her husband who turned back at 1:30 pm at about 8400m tired. All safely in C4 that night, Harrison by 5:00 pm. Had tried for top 7 May and turned around 8000m; had planned to put camp at 8000m and go to top on 8th but very deep snow and winds turned them back and down to C2 and then BC. This bid by same 5 members. Mountain much more dangerous than last year; this year major ice avalanches one of which blew away C1 (found tent in crevasse 200m away). There were major icefalls; last year no avalanche at all. Scott route thundering falling rock constantly (every 10 minutes and big rocks) whereas last route nothing fell. Briton is First Woman to Scale World's Third Highest Mountain By Elizabeth Hawley Kathmandu, May 29 (Reuters) - The world's third highest mountain, Kangchenjunga, was first "conquered" in 1955 by three British and one New Zealand man, but no woman had ever gotten to its 8586m (28,169 ft) summit until this month. The Nepalese tourism ministry announced today that Mrs. Ginette Harrison, a 40-year-old British physician living in Monson, Massachusetts, USA reached Kangchenjunga's lofty summits on May 18. She summited with a party of three men: - Timothy Horvath, 27, American contractor from Cherry Valley, New York; - Christopher Shaw, 36, American, computer programmer from Boulder, Colorado; - Jonathan Pratt, 39-year-old mining engineer who has both British and American citizenship and lives in Shenfield, Essex, England. They scaled their mountain not by its standard route on the southwest side but via the more difficult North Face. Kangchenjunga was not the first great Himalayan peak Mrs. Harrison had reached. She stood atop the world's highest, Everest, in May 1993 and the sixth highest, Cho Oyu, in September 1997. Her husband, Gary Pfisterer, 45, was the leader of this six-member team, of which Mrs. Harrison was the only woman member. |
| Accidents | Malo respiratory infection |
| Achievement | 1st woman summiter |
| Agency | Everest Parivar |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453490 |
| Year | 1998 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face (japanese 1980 rte) |
Members
6 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ginette Lesley Harrison | F | 1958 | UK | Climber | Monson, Massachusetts | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Timothy Stephen Horvath | M | 1970 | USA | Climber | Cherry Valley, New York | Contractor | Details Other expeditions |
| Paul Lucien Malo | M | 1956 | Canada | Climber | Cochrane, Ontario | Electronics technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Gary Scott Pfisterer | M | 1952 | USA | Leader | Monson, Massachusetts | Owner of textile manufacturing business | Details Other expeditions |
| Jonathan C. Pratt | M | 1958 | UK | Climber | Shenfield, Essex, England | Mining engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Christopher Shaw | M | 1962 | USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Computer programmer | Details Other expeditions |
References
8 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KANG98103 | HJ | Pfisterer, Gary | International Kangchenjunga Expedition, 1998 | - | 55:224-225 (1999) | - |
| KANG98103 | AJ | Harrison, Ginette | Kangchenjunga: The First Female Ascent | - | 104:18-22 (1999) | - |
| KANG98103 | AAJ | Harrison, Ginette | - | - | 73:379-381 (1999) | - |
| KANG98103 | HIGH | Venables, Stephen | Ginette Harrison | - | 190:56-57 (Sep 1998) | - |
| KANG98103 | HIGH | - | - | - | 193:20-21 (Dec 1998) | - |
| KANG98103 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199937902/Asia-Nepal-Ganesh-Himal-Kangchenjunga-First-Female-Ascent | - | - | - |
| KANG98103 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/55/18/expeditions-and-notes-55/ | - | - | - |
| KANG98103 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1999_files/AJ%201999%2018-22%20Harrison%20Kangchenjunga.pdf | - | - | - |