Kangchenjunga | 1998 SW Face (to 8300m)

A Spain expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1998 via SW Face (to 8300m), led by Jesus Martinez, Jose Antonio Martinez. Summit reached on 8th April 1998. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2634
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG98101
Peak ID KANG
Year 1998
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face (to 8300m)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Jesus Martinez, Jose Antonio Martinez
Sponsor Galicia Desafio 8000 to Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Everest & Xixabangma
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1998-03-04
Summit Date 1998-04-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 35
Total Days 62
Termination Date 1998-05-05
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8300m due to continuous snowfall, sapped motivation
High Point (m) 8300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/03,4800m),ABC(09/03,5400m),C1(22/03,6100m),C2(06/04,7000m),C3(07/04,7400m),xxx(08/04,8300m)
Route Notes BC at Yalung Glacier near Jannu East BC ABC at normal Kangchenjunga BC C1 in normal C1 C2 just below Great Shelf C3 on higher (northern) part of Shelf High point at Col. Problem with porters demanding Rs 2500 each for 2-day carry to normal BC (good weather and no snow in early March). After ABC reached, snowfall began and went down. Again made C1 and down because snow. 3 April brothers up from BC. 4 April ABC to C1. 5 April made route to C3 from C1 and slept at C1. 6 April to C2 to sleep. 7 April C3. 8th April to Col between Yalung Kang and Main Summit and sleep in C3. 9 April down to ABC because needed more acclimatization. Rested at BC and then days of bad weather. Many times up to ABC only and 19 April got to little above C1 to sleep (6400m) but every day snowfall prevented more progress - then avalanching and winds. 2 May Toni and Tibetans fixed rope C2 to C3; 3 May up to Shelf, where tent gone, and then down to ABC and climb finished because 2 months spent at mountain left no motivation; also have to go to Spain for few days with family and then to Karakoram: 4 peaks have own permits and on K2 join other Spanish team's permit - may not return to Nepal.
Accidents Nothing
Achievement -
Agency My Home Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453450
Year 1998
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face (to 8300m)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jesus Martinez Novas M 1965 Spain Co-Leader Mos, Pontevedra, Spain Hardware shop salesman Details Other expeditions
Jose Antonio (Toni) Martinez Novas M 1958 Spain Co-Leader Mos, Pontevedra, Spain Construction company office staff Details Other expeditions
Alejandro Rocha Puga M 1966 Spain Climber La Coruna, Galicia, Spain Cameraman Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG98101 HIGH - - - 193:19-20 (Dec 1998) -