Kangchenjunga | 1997 N Face

A USA expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1997 via N Face, led by Jonathan Pratt. Summit reached on 24th May 1997. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2278
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG97102
Peak ID KANG
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Jonathan Pratt
Sponsor 1997 Kangchenjunga Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 47th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-04-07
Summit Date 1997-05-24
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 47
Total Days 54
Termination Date 1997-05-31
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/04,5150m),C1(12/04,5400m),C2(13/04,5900m),C2.5(19/04,6600m),C3(20/04,6800m),C4(11/05,7400m),C5(12/05,7800m),Smt(24/05)
Route Notes BC at Pangpema C3 on North face C4 at snow field above rock band C5 at higher snow field. Had problem in rock band area when Slovak's leader became hostile and refused to let this team use Slovaks ropes, so had to put in own ropes. De Stefani had thrown ice axe at Herries when C2 being pitched on 12 April in fit of temper over Howkin's being on mountain ("she good only for sex," he complained) and then in early May asked to join this team but was refused. 14 May McKee and Howkins made summit bid but turned back at 8200m because of wind. 16 May McArthur, Sieger, Chatwin and Lockhart tried for top but at 7900m encountered Korean's Sherpa who had broken his ankle and US had to bring him to bring him to US C5 (Koreans refused to come to him then and did very little for him). McArthur on 18th descending from C3, slipped on steep ice 20m and fell 8m to C2.5; had cerebral and pulmonary edema before he fell - was completely confused (like a drunk and no recollection of falling) in his zigzag route he took. He was evacuated by helicopter near C1 on 19th. 24 McKee summitted from C5 alone (no one else in C5 that day); left C5 at 6:00 am and on top and 3:00 pm and down to C4 early morning of 25th; was full moon that night but started snowing at 2:00 am as he reached C4. Heavily snowed from 25th to 27th dumping deep snow on mountain so on 28th Pratt, Mazur and Seiger, only members left, turned back from C4 and climb finished. Some avalanching especially in afternoons through rocks above and right of C3 but no one hurt.
Accidents McArthur's serious altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency Everest Parivar
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453130
Year 1997
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Roblee Peter Allen M 1950 USA Exp Doctor Sacramento, California Physician Details Other expeditions
Troy J. Chatwin M 1970 USA Climber Sandy, Utah Nursing student Details Other expeditions
Scott C. Darsney M 1961 USA Climber Unalaska, Alaska Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Thomas Philip (Tom) Herries M 1967 UK Climber Guiseley, W Yorkshire, England Geologist Details Other expeditions
Heidi Howkins F 1968 USA Climber Corvallis, Oregon - Details Other expeditions
William Lockhart M 1959 USA Climber Salt Lake City, Utah Attorney Details Other expeditions
Daniel Lee (Dan) Mazur M 1960 USA Climber Hamilton, Montana Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Roderick (Roddy) McArthur M 1963 UK Climber Londonderry, Northern Ireland Major in British Army Details Other expeditions
Scott McKee M 1960 USA Climber Dillon, Montana Physician Details Other expeditions
Gary Scott Pfisterer M 1952 USA Climber Monson, Massachusetts Attorney (retired) Details Other expeditions
Jonathan C. Pratt M 1958 UK Leader Shenfield, Essex, England Mining engineer Details Other expeditions
Robert J. Scheier M 1962 USA Climber Leawood, Kansas Laborer Details Other expeditions
Christopher Shaw M 1962 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Computer programmer Details Other expeditions
Jay Sieger M 1958 USA Climber Kenai, Alaska Petroleum technician Details Other expeditions
Michael Young M 1952 USA Climber Ogden, Utah Physician Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG97102 AAJ Mazur, Daniel - - 72:314 (1998) -
KANG97102 HIGH - - - 179:18-20 (Oct 1997) -
KANG97102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199831402/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-North-Face - - -