Kangchenjunga | 1997 N Face
A USA expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1997 via N Face, led by Jonathan Pratt. Summit reached on 24th May 1997. 15 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2278 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KANG97102 |
| Peak ID | KANG |
| Year | 1997 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Jonathan Pratt |
| Sponsor | 1997 Kangchenjunga Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 47th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | UK |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1997-04-07 |
| Summit Date | 1997-05-24 |
| Summit Time | 1500 |
| Summit Days | 47 |
| Total Days | 54 |
| Termination Date | 1997-05-31 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8586 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 15 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(07/04,5150m),C1(12/04,5400m),C2(13/04,5900m),C2.5(19/04,6600m),C3(20/04,6800m),C4(11/05,7400m),C5(12/05,7800m),Smt(24/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at Pangpema C3 on North face C4 at snow field above rock band C5 at higher snow field. Had problem in rock band area when Slovak's leader became hostile and refused to let this team use Slovaks ropes, so had to put in own ropes. De Stefani had thrown ice axe at Herries when C2 being pitched on 12 April in fit of temper over Howkin's being on mountain ("she good only for sex," he complained) and then in early May asked to join this team but was refused. 14 May McKee and Howkins made summit bid but turned back at 8200m because of wind. 16 May McArthur, Sieger, Chatwin and Lockhart tried for top but at 7900m encountered Korean's Sherpa who had broken his ankle and US had to bring him to bring him to US C5 (Koreans refused to come to him then and did very little for him). McArthur on 18th descending from C3, slipped on steep ice 20m and fell 8m to C2.5; had cerebral and pulmonary edema before he fell - was completely confused (like a drunk and no recollection of falling) in his zigzag route he took. He was evacuated by helicopter near C1 on 19th. 24 McKee summitted from C5 alone (no one else in C5 that day); left C5 at 6:00 am and on top and 3:00 pm and down to C4 early morning of 25th; was full moon that night but started snowing at 2:00 am as he reached C4. Heavily snowed from 25th to 27th dumping deep snow on mountain so on 28th Pratt, Mazur and Seiger, only members left, turned back from C4 and climb finished. Some avalanching especially in afternoons through rocks above and right of C3 but no one hurt. |
| Accidents | McArthur's serious altitude sickness |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Everest Parivar |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2453130 |
| Year | 1997 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face |
Members
15 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Roblee Peter Allen | M | 1950 | USA | Exp Doctor | Sacramento, California | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Troy J. Chatwin | M | 1970 | USA | Climber | Sandy, Utah | Nursing student | Details Other expeditions |
| Scott C. Darsney | M | 1961 | USA | Climber | Unalaska, Alaska | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Thomas Philip (Tom) Herries | M | 1967 | UK | Climber | Guiseley, W Yorkshire, England | Geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Heidi Howkins | F | 1968 | USA | Climber | Corvallis, Oregon | - | Details Other expeditions |
| William Lockhart | M | 1959 | USA | Climber | Salt Lake City, Utah | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Daniel Lee (Dan) Mazur | M | 1960 | USA | Climber | Hamilton, Montana | Carpenter | Details Other expeditions |
| Roderick (Roddy) McArthur | M | 1963 | UK | Climber | Londonderry, Northern Ireland | Major in British Army | Details Other expeditions |
| Scott McKee | M | 1960 | USA | Climber | Dillon, Montana | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Gary Scott Pfisterer | M | 1952 | USA | Climber | Monson, Massachusetts | Attorney (retired) | Details Other expeditions |
| Jonathan C. Pratt | M | 1958 | UK | Leader | Shenfield, Essex, England | Mining engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert J. Scheier | M | 1962 | USA | Climber | Leawood, Kansas | Laborer | Details Other expeditions |
| Christopher Shaw | M | 1962 | USA | Climber | Boulder, Colorado | Computer programmer | Details Other expeditions |
| Jay Sieger | M | 1958 | USA | Climber | Kenai, Alaska | Petroleum technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Michael Young | M | 1952 | USA | Climber | Ogden, Utah | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KANG97102 | AAJ | Mazur, Daniel | - | - | 72:314 (1998) | - |
| KANG97102 | HIGH | - | - | - | 179:18-20 (Oct 1997) | - |
| KANG97102 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199831402/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-North-Face | - | - | - |