Kangchenjunga | 1997 N Face (Scott 1979 rte)

A Spain expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1997 via N Face (Scott 1979 rte), led by Inaki Ochoa. Summit reached on 8th May 1997. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2282
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG97101
Peak ID KANG
Year 1997
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (Scott 1979 rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Inaki Ochoa
Sponsor Spanish Kangchenjunga Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1997-03-28
Summit Date 1997-05-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 41
Total Days 49
Termination Date 1997-05-16
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8250m by Spanish due to high winds and frostbite, at 8350m by Italian due to high winds
High Point (m) 8350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/03,5100m),C1(10/04,5800m),C2(28/04,6900m),C3(7850m),xxx.Spanish(06/05,8250m),xxx.Italian(08/05,8350m)
Route Notes BC at Pangpema C2 at North Col C3 at hand-packed snow field on North Face. Snowed every day in April; no hope of climbing that month. This team expedition opened route to 6200m since were first to arrive. De Stefani said he was not strong enough to climb face, wanted to change route to ridge but Spanish did not. He then became friendly with Koreans and climbed their route (still with them now). 14 May was Spaniards third attempt to reach top: 1st was 28 April when stopped by snowstorm at North Col; 2nd below castle. So when fierce winds struck on 14 May, Spaniards descended, no more attempts (Ochoa now frostnipped; others had been on mountain long enough). Um of Korean expedition: De Stefani went with him (Um) to their highest point at 8350m on 8 May. Re De Stefani's climbing with Koreans, see Koreans expedition's return form. Um, Korean's climbing leader.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453114
Year 1997
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (scott 1979 rte)

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Julian Beraza Schwarz M 1968 Spain Climber Burlada, Navarra, Spain Building painter Details Other expeditions
Fausto De Stefani M 1952 Italy Climber Castiglione delle Stiviere, Mantova, Italy School staff & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Xabier Guembe Escalada M 1976 Spain Climber Iruna-Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Building painter Details Other expeditions
Ignacio (Inaki) Ochoa de Olza Seguin M 1967 Spain Leader Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Juan Carlos Pauner Gotor M 1964 Spain Climber Menillorri, Navarra, Spain Research chemist Details Other expeditions
Jose Antonio Perez Grueso Salon M 1954 Spain Climber Madrid, Spain Television cameraman Details Other expeditions
Miguel (Mikel) Zabalza Azkona M 1970 Spain Climber Iruna-Pamplona, Navarra, Spain Firefighter Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG97101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 72:308-309 (1998) -
KANG97101 HIGH - - - 179:18 (Oct 1997) -
KANG97101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199830800/Asia-Nepal-Various-Activity-in-the-Pre-Monsoon - - -