Kangchenjunga | 1995 SW Face

A USA expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1995 via SW Face, led by Magda King Nos Loppe. Summit reached on 12th October 1995. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1635
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG95302
Peak ID KANG
Year 1995
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Magda King Nos Loppe
Sponsor Fortieth Year Anniversary Kangchenjunga Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Spain
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-08-31
Summit Date 1995-10-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 42
Total Days 46
Termination Date 1995-10-16
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8100m due to lack of strength
High Point (m) 8100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(31/08,5400m),C1(04/09,6100m),C2(07/09,6200m),C3(16/09,7000m),C4(05/10,7900m),xxx(12/10,8100m)
Route Notes BC at normal site "village" C1 at top of first icefall (not used afterwards) C2 at lower section of second icefall C3 just below Great Shelf High point at halfway up other "the gangway." 11th Ellerby, McNally and Gombu slept at C4 but in morning 2 members woke up with diarrhea and could not make strong effort while still sick so turned back and in BC 13th. King went to C3 3 times but each time got headache which couldn't get rid of and did not take anything except aspirin: does not want to worsen her conditions with drugs. Last time was night of 10th Oct when felt nausea as well as headache again and down 11th. "I wanted that summit" and hoped to get at least 8400m without oxygen which is cheating.
Accidents 3 male members bronchitis; King altitude sickness at C3
Achievement -
Agency Kohinoor Adventure
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452538
Year 1995
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alfred McKay (Mack) Ellerby M 1952 USA Climber Denver, Colorado Fencing contractor Details Other expeditions
Theodore N. (Ted) Handwerk M 1955 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Log-houses contractor Details Other expeditions
Magda King Nos Loppe F 1947 Spain/USA Leader Denver, Colorado Secretary Details Other expeditions
David J. (Dave) McNally M 1953 USA Climber Jackson, Wyoming Artist Details Other expeditions
Gombu Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG95302 AAJ King, Magda - - 70:263-265 (1996) -
KANG95302 HIGH - - - 161:27 (Apr 1996) -
KANG95302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199626302/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Attempt-and-Base-Camp-Cleanup - - -