Kangchenjunga | 1995 SW Face

A Italy expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1995 via SW Face, led by Simone Moro. Summit reached on 30th April 1995. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1451
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG95101
Peak ID KANG
Year 1995
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Simone Moro
Sponsor Kangch Crossing Challenge to Kangchenjunga and Yalungkang
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Czech Republic
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-04-04
Summit Date 1995-04-30
Summit Time -
Summit Days 26
Total Days 31
Termination Date 1995-05-05
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8000m due to deep snow
High Point (m) 8000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 600
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(04/04,5500m),C1(07/04,6200m),C2(16/04,6900m),C3(28/04,7300m),C4(29/04,7500m),Biv(30/04,8000m),xxx(30/04,8000m)
Route Notes BC at normal site C3 at Great Shelf High point at biv. 30th April stopped because of deep snow (70cm) and above the high point was couloir with avalanche danger. From 4 April to 4 May it snowed every day from 3 pm to evening or midnight. Went above camps nine times trying to make real progress. 29th April Mondinelli, Galezzi & De Stefani at 7700m to left of classical route 100m under serac (at base of seracs) found body of woman whose left leg from knee and right arm pulled out of socket. Mondinelli thinks she fell from distance - skull missing from eyebrows up and most hair gone (little left was curly light brown). Bulgarian pills found in chest pocket. Mondinelli saw it was a woman: breast flesh was left and waist narrow - leg broken at knee & skull means did not fall with snow avalanche, means fell on rock. Mondinelli found body thinking pink and yellow he saw from distance was a tent and went to look. Body placed in crevasse; nothing taken from it. Description of body found by Italians and Michael Groom - 15 May 95 Her falling down southwest side does not mean she reached summit - difficulties of summit pyramid near one traverse at about 8400m to right to West Ridge and a col there, then up West Ridge to top, traversing rock buttress on southwest side, so "very easy to fall down SW Face - can even get blown down the SW Face." Body: [Yordanka Dimitrova or Ekaterina Ivanova from Belarus Aut 94 expedition, or Wanda Rutkiewicz?] Simone Moro - 3 April 2007 Simone Moro says that De Stefani told him that the body was Wanda Rutkiewicz. The body had the right leg missing below the knee, the other leg had a Scarpa boot, and the down suit was pink and yellow matching previous clothing worn by Wanda. It was a woman with curly hair. The body was at 7200m on a snow plateau and appeared to have fallen down from the col that separates the main peak from Yalung Kang. The body was buried in a crevasse by Mondinelli, Galezzi & De Stefani. Czech Kangchenjunga Spring 95 from Simono Moro - 15 May 1995 1/4/95 Established BC - good weather 5/4/95 Michelangelo Opranos, return to KTM 7/4/95 Established C1 by Fausto De Stefani, Silvio Mondinelli 16/4/95 Established C2, time 15:00 by Fausto De Stafani, Silvio Mondinelli, Marco Galezzi 19/4/95 Mauro Mabellini return to KTM because home program with family 19/4/95 Idel Corsini (wife of one member) arrive in BC 28/4/95 Established C3 - 7300m, time 13:30 by Simone Moro, Fausto De Stefani, Silvio Mondinell, Marco Galezzi 29/4/95 Established C4 - 7600m, time 12:30 by Fausto De Stafani, Silvio Mondinelli, Marco Galezzi 29/4/95 Found the body of one women probably Wanda Rutkiewicz, but put it in crevasse 30/4/95 Carry to 8000m the tent of C4 Biv Fausto De Stefani, Silvio Mondinelli, Marco Gallezi 1/5/95 Fausto De Stefani, Silvio Mondinelli, Marco Gallezi return to BC 5/5/95 Members leave BC
Accidents Nothing
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452373
Year 1995
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Fausto De Stefani M 1952 Italy Climber Castiglione delle Stiviere, Mantova, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Marco Galezzi M 1966 Italy Climber Calcinate, Bergamo, Italy Factory worker Details Other expeditions
Mauro Mabellini M 1956 Italy Exp Doctor Brescia, Italy Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Silvio Mondinelli M 1958 Italy Climber Alagna Valsesia, Vercelli, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Simone Moro M 1967 Italy Leader Colere, Bergamo, Italy Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Josef Rakoncaj M 1951 Czech Republic Climber Turnov, Czech Republic - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG95101 HIGH - - - 155:10 (Oct 1995) -
KANG95101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 70:263 (1996) -
KANG95101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199626301/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Body-of-Female-Discovered - - -