Kangchenjunga | 1994 SW Face

A Belarus expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1994 via SW Face, led by Sergei Novikov. Summit reached on 23rd October 1994. 12 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1410
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG94302
Peak ID KANG
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Belarus
Leaders Sergei Novikov
Sponsor First Belarussian Kangchenjunga Expedition Lux-Geya
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 43rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Bulgaria, Russia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-09-28
Summit Date 1994-10-23
Summit Time 1700
Summit Days 25
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 500
Total Members 12
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 3
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical True
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(28/09,5300m),C1(02/10,6200m),C2(15/10,7200m),C3(21/10,7800m),Smt(23/10)
Route Notes BC at normal site C1 at plateau at top of icefall C2 slightly below Great Shelf C3 just about Great Shelf at start of couloir. 23 Oct Bulgarians left C3 at 3 am, without oxygen; Borislav turned back at 4:30 am 8100m, there toes started getting frostbitten so went down to BC same day and gave himself infection (now Ok); other member continued up; at 8:30 am he saw Dimitrova at about 8200m; at 11 am he saw her at 8300m not moving; he at BC 2 pm. After 11:00-11:30 am clouds obscured view from BC and lower mountain. Same day Koulabatchenko left C3 at 8:30 am using oxygen and started later than Bulgarians because he feared frostbite earlier. At 12 noon at 8100m near found outer glove in it's loop; 50m higher, found her ice axe also drilled into snow; at 8300m he found foot prints going 20m left (towards Yalung Kang) and 20m back to track but no footprints going higher. At 17 hrs Victor on summit and returned at 22 hrs to C3 completely exhausted and entirely alone; reached BC on 24th very weak and 3 black (frostbitten) fingers. 24th 2 members to 7200m and 25th to 7800m (on 25th to look for Dimitrova but no sign of her). They were not strong and did not go off track to search thoroughly. 9/10 Oct night hard snow avalanche fatally hit Ivanova and Jvirbiva in biv at 6700m but others waited for 2 days to hear from them, then rescue team went up to search and found only one camp on top snow. Oxygen used by Victor climbing above C3 to top and 45 minutes down from top; Losowski in C1 when sick from effects of altitude. Note: Italian Spr 1995 exped (Simone Moro) found the remains of a woman: 29th April Mondinelli, Galezzi and De Stefani at 7700m to left of classical route 100m under serac (at base of seracs) found body of woman whose left leg from knee and right arm pulled out of socket; Mondinelli thinks she fell from distance; skull missing from eyebrows up and most hair gone (little left was curly light brown). Bulgarian pills found in chest pocket. Mondinelli saw it was a woman: breast flesh was left and waist narrow; leg broken at knee and skull means did not fall with snow avalanche, means fell on rock. Mondinelli found body thinking pink and yellow he saw from distance was a tent and went to look. Body placed in crevasse; nothing taken from it.
Accidents Losowski altitude sickness; Koulabatchenko frostbitten finger (will lose parts)
Achievement -
Agency Kailash Journeys Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452183
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

12 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Borislav Mihaylov Dimitrov M 1967 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Engineering student Details Other expeditions
Iordanka Ivanova Dimitrova F 1952 Bulgaria Climber Sofia, Bulgaria Economist Details Other expeditions
Alexandr Dubrovsky M 1960 Belarus Climber Minsk, Belarus Sports club director Details Other expeditions
Ekaterina Ivanova F 1962 Russia Climber Irkutsk, Russia Professional alpinist Details Other expeditions
Sergei Jvirbiva M 1960 Belarus Climber Minsk, Belarus Sports club director Details Other expeditions
Victor Koulabatchenko M 1962 Belarus Climber Borisov, Belarus Physician Details Other expeditions
Edouard Lipen M 1936 Belarus Exp Doctor Minsk, Belarus Physician Details Other expeditions
Leonid Losowski M 1938 Belarus Climber Minsk, Belarus University teacher Details Other expeditions
Valeri Vasilevich Moiseenko M 1947 Belarus Climber Lesnoy, Belarus Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Sergei Novikov M 1954 Belarus Leader Minsk, Belarus Businessman Details Other expeditions
Alexei Sedov M 1960 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Manager of home-construction company Details Other expeditions
Irina Vialenkova F 1957 Belarus Climber Minsk, Belarus Economist Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG94302 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:230 (1995) -
KANG94302 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 70:263 (1996) -
KANG94302 HIGH - - - 151:12 (Jun 1995) -
KANG94302 HIGH - - - 155:8-9 (Oct 1995) -
KANG94302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523001/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -