Kangchenjunga | 1991 SW Face

A Italy expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1991 via SW Face, led by Sergio Martini. Summit reached on 11th October 1991. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 619
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG91301
Peak ID KANG
Year 1991
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Sergio Martini
Sponsor Italian Kangchenjunga Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-09-01
Summit Date 1991-10-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 40
Total Days 41
Termination Date 1991-10-12
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8200m due to exhaustion
High Point (m) 8200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/09,5400m),C1(13/09,6100m),C2(21/09,6800m),C3(29/09,7400m),C4(01/10,7800m),xxx(11/10,8200m)
Route Notes BC at normal site C3 at beginning of steep section just above Shelf High point slightly above col between Yalung and Main peak. Very good weather, but 1st 15 days of Sept much snowfall & we put many fixed ropes: from BC to C1 is very steep & we must put many fixed ropes. When we reached C3, rested alone because Sherpas in good condition & they went down. These days no wind & very clear but in afternoon very cold. 1 Oct Martini made C4 alone; 3-4 hrs to make platform in snow for his tent. 2 Oct climbed 100m above C4: steep & knee-deep snow & down to C2 that same day, very tired. 3 Oct in BC. Started up again 8 Oct with 1 Sherpa & reached C2. 9 Oct to C3, 10 Oct to C4. 11th am took 2 hrs before could make hot drink, sirdar went ahead of Martini & went up wrong couloir; thus must go back to C4 & climb finished. Martini found on 12th he too tired to go up alone.
Accidents Kami Sherpa sick (throat); Martini infected fingers
Achievement -
Agency Everest Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451072
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sergio Martini M 1949 Italy Climber Rovereto, Trento, Italy Teacher Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG91301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 66:189 (1992) -
KANG91301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199218903/Asia-Nepal-Yalung-Kang-Southwest-Face-Attempt - - -