Kangchenjunga | 1990 SW Face

A USA expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1990 via SW Face, led by Robert Gustke. Summit reached on 15th May 1990. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	637
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1990
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	SW Face
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	USA
Leaders	Robert Gustke
Sponsor	1990 American Kangchenjunga Expedition
Success 1	True
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	36th
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	Taplejung by air
Basecamp Date	1990-04-07
Summit Date	1990-05-15
Summit Time	1645
Summit Days	38
Total Days	41
Termination Date	1990-05-18
Termination Reason	1
Termination Notes	-
High Point (m)	8586
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	4
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	9
Summit Members	1
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	0
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	True
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(07/04,5500m),C1(13/04,6200m),C2(21/04,6620m),C3(01/05,7200m),C4(12/05,7800m),Smt(15/05)
Route Notes	BC at normal site C1 just below the hump C2 at lower 1/3 of upper icefall C3 at top of upper icefall just below Great Shelf C4 just below sickle in gangway. Did not have resources to stock a 5th camp since they had no Sherpas. C4 established by Bercaw and Miller and all others helped carry up supplies but in night of 14th only Udall and Gustke occupied camp while 4 others returned to C3. Udall and Gustke left C4 at 2:30 am in clear, calm and cold weather but with bad snow conditions: crusted with snow underneath to mid-calf hence much slower progress than expected: top of gangway reached only 11 am at 27000 ft. Gustke's oxygen ran out this point. Udall went ahead of him rapidly, Gustke stopped at 8400m and descended 100m to wait for Udall, who was now out of sight. Udall plodded up in mixed rock snow which was slow but not steep; on top at 4:45 pm in sunny weather, calm on south side; stayed 5 minutes on top. Reached Gustke at 7 pm; it was dark and freezing and took 5 hrs to get to C4 (only had one head lamp that worked and wind had come up and obliterate track); found 7-8 ft high pole (red and white) perhaps left by Soviets. BC to C1 some water ice was more difficult than expected and fixed 2000 ft here; otherwise not difficult technically. Used a safer but more indirect route. Was some avalanche danger not requiring longer route.
Accidents	Gustke frostbitten nose (will heal) and stomach trouble
Achievement	-
Agency	Above the Clouds
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	True
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2450557
Year	1990
Summit Success	True
O2 Summary	Used
Route (lowercase)	sw face

Members

Field	Value
ID	15180
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Member ID	02
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1990
Season	1
First Name	John
Last Name	Bercaw
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1956
Calculated Age	33
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Ventura, California
Occupation	Teacher administrator
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	7800
Summit Date 1	1990-05-12
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	15
HCN	0
Checksum	2433903
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	john bercaw
Year of Birth	1956
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	34
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	15181
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Member ID	03
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1990
Season	1
First Name	Jeff
Last Name	Brinck
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1962
Calculated Age	28
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Boulder, Colorado
Occupation	Student
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	7800
Summit Date 1	1990-05-14
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	15
HCN	0
Checksum	2435767
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	jeff brinck
Year of Birth	1962
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	28
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	15182
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Member ID	04
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1990
Season	1
First Name	Frank
Last Name	Coffey
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1949
Calculated Age	40
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Crested Butte, Colorado
Occupation	Ski patroller & alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	7800
Summit Date 1	1990-05-13
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	15
HCN	0
Checksum	2431101
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	frank coffey
Year of Birth	1949
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	41
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	15183
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Member ID	05
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1990
Season	1
First Name	George
Last Name	Gardner
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1952
Calculated Age	37
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Ridgeway, Colorado
Occupation	Teacher & alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1952-2008) Died 19 July 2008 on Grand Teton from falling
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	18
HCN	0
Checksum	2432321
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	george gardner
Year of Birth	1952
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	38
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	15184
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Member ID	01
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1990
Season	1
First Name	Robert
Last Name	Gustke
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1958
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	USA
Status	Leader
Residence	Evergreen, Colorado
Occupation	Biology teacher
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	8400
Summit Date 1	1990-05-15
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	11
HCN	0
Checksum	2434337
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	robert gustke
Year of Birth	1958
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	32
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	15185
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Member ID	06
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1990
Season	1
First Name	Craig Foil
Last Name	Miller
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1964
Calculated Age	25
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Denver, Colorado
Occupation	Outdoor adventure instructor
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	7800
Summit Date 1	1990-05-12
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	15
HCN	0
Checksum	2436776
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	craig foil miller
Year of Birth	1964
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	26
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	15186
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Member ID	07
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1990
Season	1
First Name	Gunnar
Last Name	Paulsen
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1958
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Albuquerque, New Mexico
Occupation	High school teacher
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	7800
Summit Date 1	1990-05-13
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	15
HCN	0
Checksum	2434347
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	gunnar paulsen
Year of Birth	1958
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	32
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	15187
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Member ID	08
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1990
Season	1
First Name	William A. (Bill)
Last Name	Roos
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1948
Calculated Age	41
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	7800
Summit Date 1	1990-05-14
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	15
HCN	0
Checksum	2430775
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	william a. (bill) roos
Year of Birth	1948
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	42
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	15188
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Member ID	09
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1990
Season	1
First Name	Mark Emery
Last Name	Udall
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1950
Calculated Age	39
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Boulder, Colorado
Occupation	Outdoor adventure school director
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	True
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8586
Summit Date 1	1990-05-15
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	1645
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	36
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	True
O2 None	False
O2 Climb	True
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	5
Summit Term	1
HCN	0
Checksum	2431529
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	mark emery udall
Year of Birth	1950
Year	1990
Age at Expedition	40
Role	Member

9 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
John Bercaw	M	1956	USA	Climber	Ventura, California	Teacher administrator	Details Other expeditions
Jeff Brinck	M	1962	USA	Climber	Boulder, Colorado	Student	Details Other expeditions
Frank Coffey	M	1949	USA	Climber	Crested Butte, Colorado	Ski patroller & alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
George Gardner	M	1952	USA	Climber	Ridgeway, Colorado	Teacher & alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Robert Gustke	M	1958	USA	Leader	Evergreen, Colorado	Biology teacher	Details Other expeditions
Craig Foil Miller	M	1964	USA	Climber	Denver, Colorado	Outdoor adventure instructor	Details Other expeditions
Gunnar Paulsen	M	1958	USA	Climber	Albuquerque, New Mexico	High school teacher	Details Other expeditions
William A. (Bill) Roos	M	1948	USA	Climber	Eldorado Springs, Colorado	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Mark Emery Udall	M	1950	USA	Climber	Boulder, Colorado	Outdoor adventure school director	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	756
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Reference ID	01
Year	1990
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Udall, Mark
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1991
Language	-
Citation	65:214 (1991)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	4545
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Reference ID	02
Year	1990
Type	3
Journal	MM
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1990
Language	-
Citation	134:9 (Jul 1990)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	11578
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KANG90102
Reference ID	03
Year	1990
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121401/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Southwest-Face
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
KANG90102	AAJ	Udall, Mark	-	-	65:214 (1991)	-
KANG90102	MM	-	-	-	134:9 (Jul 1990)	-
KANG90102	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121401/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Southwest-Face	-	-	-