Kangchenjunga | 1989 N Face-N Ridge
A USA expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1989 via N Face-N Ridge, led by Lou Whittaker. Summit reached on 18th May 1989. 18 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 822 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KANG89102 |
| Peak ID | KANG |
| Year | 1989 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face-N Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Lou Whittaker |
| Sponsor | 1989 American Kangchenjunga Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 34th,35th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Indonesia |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1989-04-10 |
| Summit Date | 1989-05-18 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 38 |
| Total Days | 45 |
| Termination Date | 1989-05-25 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8586 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 18 |
| Summit Members | 6 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 6 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(06,10/04,5030m),C1(13/04,5210m),C2(15/04,5850m),C3(23/04,6550m),C4(08/05,7310m),C5(17/05,7925m),Smt(18,21/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at Pangpema C1 on glacier in center of it C2 at west cliff of NE Ridge under North Col C3 on North Face C4 on North Ridge C5 on North Face. Essentially Roskelley and Warth route. Went to N Col and then cut across face. Sherpas didn't want to go to top because dangerous and technically difficult. Left BC 25 May, the day big cyclone storm started. Indonesians got to C2 only, had been on trip so training exercise. Used 1 tank for each summit team. Was no more difficult then expected. 6 men of Rainier Guide Service on top is good record for service. Wickwire and Roskelley came late and left early, were at and above BC only 2 weeks. Wickwire said he was too old for such a big mountain, Roskelley didn't like climbing with Sherpas. 26 March 97 - Viesturs said the team's summiters did not go to the very summit out of respect for its being sacred - stopped few meters below. Could easily have gone to highest point in lovely weather and good health. Spent an hour on top enjoying view. |
| Accidents | None |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Mountain Adventure |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450194 |
| Year | 1989 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | n face-n ridge |
Members
18 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Eddy Djuandi | M | 1957 | Indonesia | Climber | Bandung, West Java, Indonesia | Outdoor equipment shop employee | Details Other expeditions |
| George James Dunn | M | 1953 | USA | Climber | Seattle, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Philip Michael (Phil) Ershler | M | 1951 | USA | Climber | Bellevue, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Achmad Gunawan | M | 1958 | Indonesia | Climber | Bandung, West Java, Indonesia | Outdoor equipment shopkeeper | Details Other expeditions |
| James Hamilton | M | 1963 | USA | Climber | Ashford, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert Chandler Link | M | 1958 | USA | Climber | Rochester, Washington | Teacher & alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Lawrence Darius (Larry) Nielson | M | 1947 | USA | Climber | Rochester, Washington | School teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Howard Neil Putter | M | 1949 | USA | Exp Doctor | Bellevue, Washington | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| John Fenton Charles Roskelley | M | 1948 | USA | Climber | Spokane, Washington | Photojournalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Trinovi Sugiarto Senapi | M | 1962 | Indonesia | Climber | Bandung, West Java, Indonesia | Outdoor equipment shop employee | Details Other expeditions |
| Djodjo Sunardjo | M | 1963 | Indonesia | Climber | Bandung, West Java, Indonesia | Outdoor equipment shop employee | Details Other expeditions |
| Craig Douglas Van Hoy | M | 1958 | USA | Climber | Puyallup, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Edmund Karl (Ed) Viesturs | M | 1959 | USA | Climber | Seattle, Washington | Veterinarian & alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Louis Winslow (Lou) Whittaker | M | 1929 | USA | Leader | Ashford, Washington | Owner, alpine guide service | Details Other expeditions |
| James F. (Jim) Wickwire | M | 1940 | USA | Climber | Seattle, Washington | Attorney | Details Other expeditions |
| Ronald Gregory (Greg) Wilson | M | 1956 | USA | Climber | Ashford, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Skip Yowell | M | 1946 | USA | Climber | Mukilteo, Washington | Sporting goods manufacturer | Details Other expeditions |
| Eric Robb Simonson | M | 1955 | USA | Exp Organizer | Ashford, Washington | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
References
6 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KANG89102 | AAJ | Wilson, Greg | - | - | 64:215 (1990) | - |
| KANG89102 | HJ | Wilson, Greg | American Kangchenjunga Expedition, 1989 | - | 46:19-23 (1988-1989) | - |
| KANG89102 | - | Whittaker, Lou | Lou Whittaker, Memoirs of a Mountain Guide | Mountaineers, Seattle | - | - |
| KANG89102 | MM | - | - | - | 128:14 (Jul 1989) | - |
| KANG89102 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021501/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-from-the-North | - | - | - |
| KANG89102 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/46/4/american-kangchenjunga-expedition-1989/ | - | - | - |