Kangchenjunga | 1989 N Face-N Ridge

A USA expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1989 via N Face-N Ridge, led by Lou Whittaker. Summit reached on 18th May 1989. 18 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 822
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG89102
Peak ID KANG
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Lou Whittaker
Sponsor 1989 American Kangchenjunga Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 34th,35th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Indonesia
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-04-10
Summit Date 1989-05-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1989-05-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 18
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 6
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06,10/04,5030m),C1(13/04,5210m),C2(15/04,5850m),C3(23/04,6550m),C4(08/05,7310m),C5(17/05,7925m),Smt(18,21/05)
Route Notes BC at Pangpema C1 on glacier in center of it C2 at west cliff of NE Ridge under North Col C3 on North Face C4 on North Ridge C5 on North Face. Essentially Roskelley and Warth route. Went to N Col and then cut across face. Sherpas didn't want to go to top because dangerous and technically difficult. Left BC 25 May, the day big cyclone storm started. Indonesians got to C2 only, had been on trip so training exercise. Used 1 tank for each summit team. Was no more difficult then expected. 6 men of Rainier Guide Service on top is good record for service. Wickwire and Roskelley came late and left early, were at and above BC only 2 weeks. Wickwire said he was too old for such a big mountain, Roskelley didn't like climbing with Sherpas. 26 March 97 - Viesturs said the team's summiters did not go to the very summit out of respect for its being sacred - stopped few meters below. Could easily have gone to highest point in lovely weather and good health. Spent an hour on top enjoying view.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Adventure
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450194
Year 1989
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) n face-n ridge

Members

18 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Eddy Djuandi M 1957 Indonesia Climber Bandung, West Java, Indonesia Outdoor equipment shop employee Details Other expeditions
George James Dunn M 1953 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Philip Michael (Phil) Ershler M 1951 USA Climber Bellevue, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Achmad Gunawan M 1958 Indonesia Climber Bandung, West Java, Indonesia Outdoor equipment shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
James Hamilton M 1963 USA Climber Ashford, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Robert Chandler Link M 1958 USA Climber Rochester, Washington Teacher & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Lawrence Darius (Larry) Nielson M 1947 USA Climber Rochester, Washington School teacher Details Other expeditions
Howard Neil Putter M 1949 USA Exp Doctor Bellevue, Washington Physician Details Other expeditions
John Fenton Charles Roskelley M 1948 USA Climber Spokane, Washington Photojournalist Details Other expeditions
Trinovi Sugiarto Senapi M 1962 Indonesia Climber Bandung, West Java, Indonesia Outdoor equipment shop employee Details Other expeditions
Djodjo Sunardjo M 1963 Indonesia Climber Bandung, West Java, Indonesia Outdoor equipment shop employee Details Other expeditions
Craig Douglas Van Hoy M 1958 USA Climber Puyallup, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Edmund Karl (Ed) Viesturs M 1959 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Veterinarian & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Louis Winslow (Lou) Whittaker M 1929 USA Leader Ashford, Washington Owner, alpine guide service Details Other expeditions
James F. (Jim) Wickwire M 1940 USA Climber Seattle, Washington Attorney Details Other expeditions
Ronald Gregory (Greg) Wilson M 1956 USA Climber Ashford, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Skip Yowell M 1946 USA Climber Mukilteo, Washington Sporting goods manufacturer Details Other expeditions
Eric Robb Simonson M 1955 USA Exp Organizer Ashford, Washington Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG89102 AAJ Wilson, Greg - - 64:215 (1990) -
KANG89102 HJ Wilson, Greg American Kangchenjunga Expedition, 1989 - 46:19-23 (1988-1989) -
KANG89102 - Whittaker, Lou Lou Whittaker, Memoirs of a Mountain Guide Mountaineers, Seattle - -
KANG89102 MM - - - 128:14 (Jul 1989) -
KANG89102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021501/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-from-the-North - - -
KANG89102 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/46/4/american-kangchenjunga-expedition-1989/ - - -