Kangchenjunga | 1989 SW Face

A USSR expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1989 via SW Face, led by Eduard Myslovsky. Summit reached on 9th April 1989. 33 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 823
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG89101
Peak ID KANG
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 From Yalung Kang up; to Central and S Smts down
Route 3 SW Face up; S Ridge-SW side down
Route 4 South/Central Smts-S Ridge up; Yalung Kang down
Nationality USSR
Leaders Eduard Myslovsky
Sponsor Soviet Expedition to Kangchenjunga Massif
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 True
Success 4 True
Ascent 1 27th-29th,33rd
Ascent 2 30th
Ascent 3 31st
Ascent 4 32nd
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-03-09
Summit Date 1989-04-09
Summit Time 1530
Summit Days 31
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 32
Summit Members 27
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 17
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed/traversed other Kangchenjunga summits (KANC-891-01, KANS-891-01) and Yalung Kang (YALU-891-01)
Campsites BC(09/03,5350m),C1(16/03,6150m),C2(18/03,6450m),C3(24/03,7250m),C4(07/04,7650m),C5(08/04,8200m),Smt(09,16,29/04,01,03/05)
Route Notes BC at normal site C3 at Great Shelf. 1st Main Smmit team went to C4 on 7th but slept in C4 and then to C5 on 8th and to top on 9th and back to sleep in C4. On top 3:30-4:00 found striped stick on top and autographed it. 1st Central Summit group slept in C3 14th and left C3 at 4:30 am, dropped loads at C5 at 1:15 pm and on top at 5:30 pm. Returned C4 8:00 pm. 15th-16th to C3. 17th carried loads to South route C4 and down to BC same day. 1st South Summit group: from C5 on 15th at 7:30 am to 8:15 am - much difficult climbing on new route. On top 2:40 pm till 3:10 pm. Left full and empty oxygen bottles and flags. Down to C3. 2nd Main Summit group from C4 on 16th at 8:00 am and at 2:00 pm in C5 and on top 5:30-5:45 pm. Slept in C5 except 2 cameramen to C4 (Moiseev and Troshchinenko). 2nd South Summit group: from C5 on 17th from 9:30 to 10:30 am (in intervals so as not to send stones falling on those below). On top 1:30-2:30 pm and in C3 8:00 pm. 29 April Central and Main Summits: started from C5 which they had to repair day before (28th) and 3 on central at 11:30 am while others moved more slowly without oxygen. All 5 started for Col between Central and Main Summits. On Main top all 5 at 2:20 pm and at 3:35 pm last one left main top. Back in C3 at 8:00 pm. All used oxygen part or all of this day, Khabibulin only for last 15 minutes. Yalung Kang traverse group of Boukreev, Bershov, Vinogradski, Pogorelov and Turkevich left C5 on 30th (last one at 8:30) and 11:55 am on top and 12:25 began descent. In C5 at 2 pm. All on oxygen. Support group from C4 at 6:00 am, carried oxygen to C5; 3 of them (Souviga, Khrishchati and Shinov) without oxygen on top by 3:45. All immediately down to C4 where arrived 7:00 to 8:00 pm. Shinov and Dedi down to BC. Traverse from West to South: had begun on 30th April with ascent of Yalung Kang and returned to C5 that afternoon. 1 May from C5 at 8:00 am and at 10:10 am were on Main Summit. Left Main Summit 11:10 am and were on Central Summit at 12:35 pm and left it at 12:50 pm. Climbed on the ridge, which was rather easy, without problems. On saddle between Central and South Summits at 2:10 pm met other traverse group. Reached South Summit at 2:45 pm. At 3:00 pm left South Summit and cleared C5 and C4 and arrived C3 at 7:00 pm. Entire climb on 1 May with oxygen. Had slept on oxygen previous night and used 2 bottles each on 1 May. Traverse from West C4 to Main summit: 1 May Arsentiev, Klinetski, Souviga and Khrishchati (Souviga and Khrishchati without oxygen). Started 8:00 am from West C4, on Main summit at 4:30 pm to 5:30 pm and waited there for South-West traverse party. Met this party at main summit at 5:40 pm. Then was decided group from West C4 would go to Central C4 West were in Central C5 at 7:00 pm and slept there. 2 May they cleared Central C5 and C4 and brought it to C3 (were in BC at 11:00 pm ) not enough fuel in C3 to stay there). Traverse South to West: 1 May started from South C5 from 8:40 and 9:15 am. Elagin, Koroteev, Luniakov, Balyberdin and Khalitov (the last three used no oxygen to South Summit, Khalitov used none all the way to saddle between South and Central Summits). Arrived South Summit 12:10 to 1:35 (Balyberdin was last). At 2:10 pm met West-South traverse group. At Central Summit 3:40 pm and left it at 3:50 pm for Main Summit which reached 5:40 to 6:00 pm. Down to West C5 at 8:00 pm. 2 May from C5 at 12 noon for Yalung Kang summit. All 5 used oxygen. On top 2:00 to 2:40 pm; 3:00 pm started descent: wanted to descend a gully, not same route as had descended. Down to C3 at 5:30 pm. Final ascent: Cherny, Efimov, Ang Babu and Dr. Karpenko started on 3 May from West C5 with oxygen at 7:30 am to 8:30 am. Doctor went up 100m only and then down to C3. Other 3 to Main Summit at 11:30 am to 11:45 am and half hour there. Brilliant weather. Cleared West C5 and C4 and went to C3. Total: 10 traversed and had already been to one summit before = 50 summits Total: 85 summits by all 22 mountain climbers, 3 film group members, deputy leader Cherny and coach Efimov, and one Sherpa. No accidents or frostbite; 1 case of altitude sickness during descent without oxygen but no serious effects. Only 3 Sherpas went above C3 but 15 to C3 - members did much load carrying. New route: 1) from 7800m (below C4) to South Summit 2) from Col between central and main summits to main summits - really from C to M summits 3) not sure about newness of route from West C5 to Yalungkang BC evacuated to lower camp below BC from 30 April to 7 May.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450155
Year 1989
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

33 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Sergei Anatolievich Arsentiev M 1958 USSR Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR Sports instructor Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Sergeevich Balyberdin M 1949 USSR Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Igorevich Bershov M 1947 USSR Climber Kharkov, Ukraine, USSR Alpine & skiing coach Details Other expeditions
Sergei Bogomolov M 1951 USSR Climber Saratov, Russia, USSR Sports instructor Details Other expeditions
Anatoli Boukreev M 1958 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Skiing coach Details Other expeditions
Rinat Khabibulin M 1960 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Zijnur Khalitov M 1951 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Junior army officer & professional climber Details Other expeditions
Nikolai Dmitrievich Cherny M 1938 USSR Deputy Leader Moscow, USSR Coach on USSR sports commitee Details Other expeditions
Victor Dedi M 1959 USSR Climber Karaganda, Kazakhstan, USSR Member of designer cooperation Details Other expeditions
Sergei Borisovich Efimov M 1944 USSR Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia, USSR Engineer Details Other expeditions
Vasili Elagin M 1953 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Alpine guide & geologist Details Other expeditions
Alexander Glushkovski M 1953 USSR Cameraman St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR University teacher Details Other expeditions
Valentin Andreevich Ivanov M 1941 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Engineer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Karataev M 1954 USSR Climber Divnogorsk, Krasnoyarsk, Russia, USSR Alpine & skiing coach Details Other expeditions
Valeri Karpenko M 1953 USSR Exp Doctor Petropavlovsk, Kamachatka, Russia, USSR Physician Details Other expeditions
Valeri Nikolaevich Khrishchati M 1951 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Soil scientist Details Other expeditions
Evgeni Klinetski M 1960 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Koroteev M 1955 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Grigori Luniakov M 1955 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Sports instructor Details Other expeditions
Yuri Moiseev M 1954 USSR Cameraman Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Railroad engineer Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Mojaev M 1958 USSR Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR Engineer Details Other expeditions
Eduard Vikentevich Myslovsky M 1937 USSR Leader Moscow, USSR Professor of radio electronics Details Other expeditions
Viktor Pastukh M 1957 USSR Climber Kharkov, Ukraine, USSR Physician Details Other expeditions
Alexander Pogorelov M 1957 USSR Climber Rostov-on-Don, Russia, USSR Sports instructor Details Other expeditions
Vasili Senatorov M 1955 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Journalist Details Other expeditions
Alexander Shinov M 1958 USSR Climber Moscow, USSR Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Souviga M 1953 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Driver Details Other expeditions
Leonid Andreevich Troshchinenko M 1945 USSR Cameraman St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Mikhailovich Turkevich M 1953 USSR Climber Donetsk, Ukraine, USSR Director of mountaineering club Details Other expeditions
Kazbek Shakimovich Valiev M 1952 USSR Climber Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR Geophysicist Details Other expeditions
Evgeni Vinogradski M 1946 USSR Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia, USSR Physician Details Other expeditions
Vladimir Aleksandrovich Voskobinikov M 1939 USSR BC Manager Moscow, USSR Food and nutrition specialist Details Other expeditions
Babu Chiri (Babu Tshering) Sherpa M 1965 Nepal H-A Worker Chhulemu, Taksindu, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG89101 AAJ Kolev, Svetoslav - - 64:213-214 (1990) -
KANG89101 AJ Myslovski, Eduard Kangchenjunga 1989 - 95:24-28 (1990-1991) -
KANG89101 AJ Balyberdin, Vladimir Trekking on Tops - 96:18-24 (1991-1992) -
KANG89101 MM - - - 128:14 (Jul 1989) -
KANG89101 - Senatorov, Vasilii Traverse Arenstvo SAVV, Moscow - -
KANG89101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021302/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Traverses - - -
KANG89101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1991-92_files/AJ%201991-92%2018-24%20Balyberdin%20Kanch.pdf - - -
KANG89101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1990-91_files/AJ%201990%2024-28%20Myslovski%20Kangchenjunga.pdf - - -