Kangchenjunga | 1989 SW Face
A USSR expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1989 via SW Face, led by Eduard Myslovsky. Summit reached on 9th April 1989. 33 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 823 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KANG89101 |
| Peak ID | KANG |
| Year | 1989 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Face |
| Route 2 | From Yalung Kang up; to Central and S Smts down |
| Route 3 | SW Face up; S Ridge-SW side down |
| Route 4 | South/Central Smts-S Ridge up; Yalung Kang down |
| Nationality | USSR |
| Leaders | Eduard Myslovsky |
| Sponsor | Soviet Expedition to Kangchenjunga Massif |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | True |
| Success 3 | True |
| Success 4 | True |
| Ascent 1 | 27th-29th,33rd |
| Ascent 2 | 30th |
| Ascent 3 | 31st |
| Ascent 4 | 32nd |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1989-03-09 |
| Summit Date | 1989-04-09 |
| Summit Time | 1530 |
| Summit Days | 31 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8586 |
| Traverse | True |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 32 |
| Summit Members | 27 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 17 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed/traversed other Kangchenjunga summits (KANC-891-01, KANS-891-01) and Yalung Kang (YALU-891-01) |
| Campsites | BC(09/03,5350m),C1(16/03,6150m),C2(18/03,6450m),C3(24/03,7250m),C4(07/04,7650m),C5(08/04,8200m),Smt(09,16,29/04,01,03/05) |
| Route Notes | BC at normal site C3 at Great Shelf. 1st Main Smmit team went to C4 on 7th but slept in C4 and then to C5 on 8th and to top on 9th and back to sleep in C4. On top 3:30-4:00 found striped stick on top and autographed it. 1st Central Summit group slept in C3 14th and left C3 at 4:30 am, dropped loads at C5 at 1:15 pm and on top at 5:30 pm. Returned C4 8:00 pm. 15th-16th to C3. 17th carried loads to South route C4 and down to BC same day. 1st South Summit group: from C5 on 15th at 7:30 am to 8:15 am - much difficult climbing on new route. On top 2:40 pm till 3:10 pm. Left full and empty oxygen bottles and flags. Down to C3. 2nd Main Summit group from C4 on 16th at 8:00 am and at 2:00 pm in C5 and on top 5:30-5:45 pm. Slept in C5 except 2 cameramen to C4 (Moiseev and Troshchinenko). 2nd South Summit group: from C5 on 17th from 9:30 to 10:30 am (in intervals so as not to send stones falling on those below). On top 1:30-2:30 pm and in C3 8:00 pm. 29 April Central and Main Summits: started from C5 which they had to repair day before (28th) and 3 on central at 11:30 am while others moved more slowly without oxygen. All 5 started for Col between Central and Main Summits. On Main top all 5 at 2:20 pm and at 3:35 pm last one left main top. Back in C3 at 8:00 pm. All used oxygen part or all of this day, Khabibulin only for last 15 minutes. Yalung Kang traverse group of Boukreev, Bershov, Vinogradski, Pogorelov and Turkevich left C5 on 30th (last one at 8:30) and 11:55 am on top and 12:25 began descent. In C5 at 2 pm. All on oxygen. Support group from C4 at 6:00 am, carried oxygen to C5; 3 of them (Souviga, Khrishchati and Shinov) without oxygen on top by 3:45. All immediately down to C4 where arrived 7:00 to 8:00 pm. Shinov and Dedi down to BC. Traverse from West to South: had begun on 30th April with ascent of Yalung Kang and returned to C5 that afternoon. 1 May from C5 at 8:00 am and at 10:10 am were on Main Summit. Left Main Summit 11:10 am and were on Central Summit at 12:35 pm and left it at 12:50 pm. Climbed on the ridge, which was rather easy, without problems. On saddle between Central and South Summits at 2:10 pm met other traverse group. Reached South Summit at 2:45 pm. At 3:00 pm left South Summit and cleared C5 and C4 and arrived C3 at 7:00 pm. Entire climb on 1 May with oxygen. Had slept on oxygen previous night and used 2 bottles each on 1 May. Traverse from West C4 to Main summit: 1 May Arsentiev, Klinetski, Souviga and Khrishchati (Souviga and Khrishchati without oxygen). Started 8:00 am from West C4, on Main summit at 4:30 pm to 5:30 pm and waited there for South-West traverse party. Met this party at main summit at 5:40 pm. Then was decided group from West C4 would go to Central C4 West were in Central C5 at 7:00 pm and slept there. 2 May they cleared Central C5 and C4 and brought it to C3 (were in BC at 11:00 pm ) not enough fuel in C3 to stay there). Traverse South to West: 1 May started from South C5 from 8:40 and 9:15 am. Elagin, Koroteev, Luniakov, Balyberdin and Khalitov (the last three used no oxygen to South Summit, Khalitov used none all the way to saddle between South and Central Summits). Arrived South Summit 12:10 to 1:35 (Balyberdin was last). At 2:10 pm met West-South traverse group. At Central Summit 3:40 pm and left it at 3:50 pm for Main Summit which reached 5:40 to 6:00 pm. Down to West C5 at 8:00 pm. 2 May from C5 at 12 noon for Yalung Kang summit. All 5 used oxygen. On top 2:00 to 2:40 pm; 3:00 pm started descent: wanted to descend a gully, not same route as had descended. Down to C3 at 5:30 pm. Final ascent: Cherny, Efimov, Ang Babu and Dr. Karpenko started on 3 May from West C5 with oxygen at 7:30 am to 8:30 am. Doctor went up 100m only and then down to C3. Other 3 to Main Summit at 11:30 am to 11:45 am and half hour there. Brilliant weather. Cleared West C5 and C4 and went to C3. Total: 10 traversed and had already been to one summit before = 50 summits Total: 85 summits by all 22 mountain climbers, 3 film group members, deputy leader Cherny and coach Efimov, and one Sherpa. No accidents or frostbite; 1 case of altitude sickness during descent without oxygen but no serious effects. Only 3 Sherpas went above C3 but 15 to C3 - members did much load carrying. New route: 1) from 7800m (below C4) to South Summit 2) from Col between central and main summits to main summits - really from C to M summits 3) not sure about newness of route from West C5 to Yalungkang BC evacuated to lower camp below BC from 30 April to 7 May. |
| Accidents | None |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2450155 |
| Year | 1989 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | sw face |
Members
33 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sergei Anatolievich Arsentiev | M | 1958 | USSR | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR | Sports instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Sergeevich Balyberdin | M | 1949 | USSR | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR | Computer engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergei Igorevich Bershov | M | 1947 | USSR | Climber | Kharkov, Ukraine, USSR | Alpine & skiing coach | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergei Bogomolov | M | 1951 | USSR | Climber | Saratov, Russia, USSR | Sports instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Anatoli Boukreev | M | 1958 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Skiing coach | Details Other expeditions |
| Rinat Khabibulin | M | 1960 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Electronics engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Zijnur Khalitov | M | 1951 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Junior army officer & professional climber | Details Other expeditions |
| Nikolai Dmitrievich Cherny | M | 1938 | USSR | Deputy Leader | Moscow, USSR | Coach on USSR sports commitee | Details Other expeditions |
| Victor Dedi | M | 1959 | USSR | Climber | Karaganda, Kazakhstan, USSR | Member of designer cooperation | Details Other expeditions |
| Sergei Borisovich Efimov | M | 1944 | USSR | Climber | Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia, USSR | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Vasili Elagin | M | 1953 | USSR | Climber | Moscow, USSR | Alpine guide & geologist | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander Glushkovski | M | 1953 | USSR | Cameraman | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR | University teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Valentin Andreevich Ivanov | M | 1941 | USSR | Climber | Moscow, USSR | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Karataev | M | 1954 | USSR | Climber | Divnogorsk, Krasnoyarsk, Russia, USSR | Alpine & skiing coach | Details Other expeditions |
| Valeri Karpenko | M | 1953 | USSR | Exp Doctor | Petropavlovsk, Kamachatka, Russia, USSR | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Valeri Nikolaevich Khrishchati | M | 1951 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Soil scientist | Details Other expeditions |
| Evgeni Klinetski | M | 1960 | USSR | Climber | Moscow, USSR | Computer engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Koroteev | M | 1955 | USSR | Climber | Moscow, USSR | Chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Grigori Luniakov | M | 1955 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Sports instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Yuri Moiseev | M | 1954 | USSR | Cameraman | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Railroad engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Mikhail Mojaev | M | 1958 | USSR | Climber | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR | Engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Eduard Vikentevich Myslovsky | M | 1937 | USSR | Leader | Moscow, USSR | Professor of radio electronics | Details Other expeditions |
| Viktor Pastukh | M | 1957 | USSR | Climber | Kharkov, Ukraine, USSR | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander Pogorelov | M | 1957 | USSR | Climber | Rostov-on-Don, Russia, USSR | Sports instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Vasili Senatorov | M | 1955 | USSR | Climber | Moscow, USSR | Journalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexander Shinov | M | 1958 | USSR | Climber | Moscow, USSR | Alpine instructor | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Souviga | M | 1953 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Driver | Details Other expeditions |
| Leonid Andreevich Troshchinenko | M | 1945 | USSR | Cameraman | St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia, USSR | Cameraman | Details Other expeditions |
| Mikhail Mikhailovich Turkevich | M | 1953 | USSR | Climber | Donetsk, Ukraine, USSR | Director of mountaineering club | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazbek Shakimovich Valiev | M | 1952 | USSR | Climber | Almaty (Alma-Ata), Kazakhstan, USSR | Geophysicist | Details Other expeditions |
| Evgeni Vinogradski | M | 1946 | USSR | Climber | Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia, USSR | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir Aleksandrovich Voskobinikov | M | 1939 | USSR | BC Manager | Moscow, USSR | Food and nutrition specialist | Details Other expeditions |
| Babu Chiri (Babu Tshering) Sherpa | M | 1965 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Chhulemu, Taksindu, Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
8 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KANG89101 | AAJ | Kolev, Svetoslav | - | - | 64:213-214 (1990) | - |
| KANG89101 | AJ | Myslovski, Eduard | Kangchenjunga 1989 | - | 95:24-28 (1990-1991) | - |
| KANG89101 | AJ | Balyberdin, Vladimir | Trekking on Tops | - | 96:18-24 (1991-1992) | - |
| KANG89101 | MM | - | - | - | 128:14 (Jul 1989) | - |
| KANG89101 | - | Senatorov, Vasilii | Traverse | Arenstvo SAVV, Moscow | - | - |
| KANG89101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199021302/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Traverses | - | - | - |
| KANG89101 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1991-92_files/AJ%201991-92%2018-24%20Balyberdin%20Kanch.pdf | - | - | - |
| KANG89101 | - | - | https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1990-91_files/AJ%201990%2024-28%20Myslovski%20Kangchenjunga.pdf | - | - | - |