Kangchenjunga | 1988 N Ridge

A Spain expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1988 via N Ridge, led by Felipe Uriarte Camara. Summit reached on 20th May 1988. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 66
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG88102
Peak ID KANG
Year 1988
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Felipe Uriarte Camara
Sponsor Kangchenjunga Basque Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-04-06
Summit Date 1988-05-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 44
Total Days 53
Termination Date 1988-05-29
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7800m due to bad weather and exhaustion
High Point (m) 7800
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(06/04,5000m),C1(08/04,5640m),C2(20/04,6400m),C3(02/05,7300m),C4(20/05,7800m),xxx(20/05,7800m)
Route Notes BC near US-Australian-Spanish BC C2 at same crevasse as C3 at same place as above North Col ridge and before rock C4 near Scott's - on face 100-150m from Ridge. Members "very strong people" and stayed till last moment but a little tired "at end." 3 May tried to reach C4 site but reached only 7600m and weather getting bad and decided to go down in expectation of bad snowstorm (same day US, etc to top). Arrive 10 May C2 where tent has been destroyed by avalanche so dangerous ice cave because no tent left. 13 May start up from C2 but again heavy snowfall and again down to BC same day. 17th all 4 up to C1, 18th C2, 19th C3 (in April's 10 minutes now 3 hours and to ascend). 20th made C4 and snow began again and snowed all night. Took only 2 sleeping bags and little food, planning to stay only few hours before going for top, but had to spend two days there cramped in small tent in strong wind. 22 May Felipe and Zuloaga down while Xabier and Oiarzabal stayed few hours more, then they also down to C1 and BC 23rd. 26 May Oiarzabal and Zuloaga left for KTM and 27 May Xabier and Felipe to C1. Very tired so rest in C1 with US-Australia food and big storm, lightning and snow, next day very hot. Now still tired and decided perhaps could get to top, but descent questionable so decide to quit and down on 29th.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449830
Year 1988
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Xabier Ansa Zeberio M 1963 Spain Climber Andoain, Guipuzcoa, Spain Basque language teacher Details Other expeditions
Juan Eusebio (Juanito) Oiarzabal Urteaga M 1956 Spain Climber Vitoria, Alava, Spain Salesman, fish shop Details Other expeditions
Felipe Uriarte Camara M 1944 Spain Leader Gaintza, Navarra, Spain Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jose Luis Zuloaga M 1954 Spain Climber Bilbao, Vizcaya, Spain Works at various jobs to finance climbing Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG88102 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 63:187 (1989) -
KANG88102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198918702/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-North-Face-Attempt - - -