Kangchenjunga | 1987 N Face (Scott 1979 rte)

A Australia expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1987 via N Face (Scott 1979 rte), led by James Van Gelder. Summit reached on 10th October 1987. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 892
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG87302
Peak ID KANG
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face (Scott 1979 rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders James Van Gelder
Sponsor Australian Kangchenjunga N Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Hile->Ghunsa (not via Taplejung)
Basecamp Date 1987-09-01
Summit Date 1987-10-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 39
Total Days 52
Termination Date 1987-10-23
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to cold, wind and loss of fixed ropes
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 600
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/09,5000m),C1(14/09,5600m),C2(22/09,5900m),C3(27/09,6500m),C4(09/10,7100m),xxx(10/10,7500m)
Route Notes BC at site Pangpema - normal site C1 at Kangchenjunga Glacier (temporary camp) C2 at normal site above 1st icefall C3 above 1st ice cliff (no debris of earlier camps seen) C4 at North Ridge just before steep section with a snow rope ("bottom of the castle") High point at North Ridge. Fixed rope from C3 to North Ridge and down to BC for rest - 1-6 Oct. Trimble and Van Gelder up again on 7th to C2, 8th C3 and 9th to C4 on ridge having overcome all difficulties. 10th up ridge few hundred more meters when Trimble got altitude sickness and turned down for 5 days at BC before trying again beginning on 17th, but on 17th weather looked bad and was for 48 hours 18-19th. Up again on 21st and got to C2 at 8:00 pm, spent 3 hours digging out sleeping bags and took whole next day to dig out C2. 23rd up towards C3 in very deep snow and found avalanche had wiped all ropes on ice cliff and this last straw. Didn't have the equipment to fix new lines. Now 5 days of very high wind had come and not safe in cold and wind. Did tests on viscosity of blood and changes that take place with altitude which shows blood definitely does thicken; tested drug that thins blood effectively. Found G. O. Dyhrenfurth's ice axe and remains of his Sherpas who died in avalanche (pre-war clothing and small bones). Letter from Norman Dyhrenfurth - 25 Nov 1987 Chettan was crushed by a huge ice avalanche on May 8, 1930, and after more than an hour of artificial respiration he was buried near C2. My father's old ice-axe was indeed placed on his grave! Perhaps a recent avalanche brought his remains to the surface, and broke the ice axe as well. What a strong coincidence! I certainly look forward to receiving the two pieces. Knowing of no other climber climber killed at that place, it certainly must be Chettan.
Accidents Tremble and Brand-Maher altitude sickness
Achievement -
Agency Kunga (Nima)
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449606
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face (scott 1979 rte)

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Carolyne Brand-Maher F 1944 Australia Exp Doctor Canberra, ACT, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions
Terence W. (Terry) Tremble M 1958 Australia Climber Deer Park, Victoria, Australia Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
James Van Gelder M 1961 Australia Leader Canberra, ACT, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG87302 AAJ Van Gelder, James - - 62:187 (1988) -
KANG87302 MM - - - 120:11 (Mar 1988) -
KANG87302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198818703/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-North-Face-Attempt - - -