Kangchenjunga | 1986 SW Face

A Spain expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1986 via SW Face, led by Joan Hugas Maurici. Summit reached on 24th October 1986. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 909
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG86301
Peak ID KANG
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Spain
Leaders Joan Hugas Maurici
Sponsor Girona Himalaya 1986
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 20th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-09-15
Summit Date 1986-10-24
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 39
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 1200
Total Members 10
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/09,5000m),C1(22/09,6100m),C2(25/09,6700m),C3(27/09,7200m),C4(16/10,7800m),Smt(24/10)
Route Notes Bad weather delayed expedition in reaching BC. C1-C3 established by 27 Sep; C4 established on 16 Oct after delayed by heavy snowfall. 1st summit did defeated at 8000m on 17th Oct by wind, big snowstorm and incipient frostbite to Estiu, who was with Permanye and Ang Rita. Had pitched C4, after heavy snowfall in late Sept. First two had gotten no higher than C3. After further delays due to snowfall and high winds, 2nd summit bid made on 24 Oct. Final summit push found C2 and C3 destroyed by snowfall at C2 and avalanche from Yalung Kang. 3 men to C4 23rd Oct: Hugas, Permanye and Ang Rita. On 24th Hugas turned back at 8400m because very cold [while other two to the top at 1 pm]. Total 1200m fixed rope. Most difficult section below C1, where fixed rope 400-500m.
Accidents Sherpa Lhakpa Nuru disappeared on approach march below BC (don't know where he went and whether he is alive)
Achievement 1st Spanish ascent
Agency Kunga
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449254
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Joaquim (Kim) Bover Busquet M 1948 Spain BC Manager Girona, Spain Engineer Details Other expeditions
Joan Cardona Tarres M 1958 Spain Climber St. Hilari Sacalm, Girona, Spain Printer Details Other expeditions
Santiago Carrillo Ortiz M 1960 Spain Climber St. Hilari Sacalm, Girona, Spain Furniture maker Details Other expeditions
Francesc Casas Arribas M 1965 Spain Climber Girona, Spain Design student Details Other expeditions
Xabier Erro Jauregui M 1946 Spain Climber Hondarribia, Guipuzcoa, Spain Professor of mechanical engineering Details Other expeditions
Ramon Estiu Masferrer M 1956 Spain Climber Girona City, Girona, Spain University professor of chemistry Details Other expeditions
Joan Hugas Maurici M 1950 Spain Leader Girona City, Girona, Spain Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Josep (Pep) Permanye Sabates M 1963 Spain Climber St. Hilari Sacalm, Girona, Spain Furniture maker Details Other expeditions
Salvador Coll Comerma M 1958 Spain Climber Banyolas, Girona, Spain Teacher Details Other expeditions
Jordi Terrades Espona M 1958 Spain Exp Doctor Girona, Spain Physician Details Other expeditions
Ang Rita Sherpa M 1948 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu High-altitude porter Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG86301 AAJ Hugas, Joan - - 61:221-222 (1987) -
KANG86301 MM - - - 113:8-9 (Jan 1987) -
KANG86301 MM - - - 114:12 (Mar 1987) -
KANG86301 OTH - Expedicio Gironina al Kangchanjunga Punt 1-62 (1986) -
KANG86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722102/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga - - -