Kangchenjunga | 1986 SW Face

A Australia expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1986 via SW Face, led by Michael Groom. Summit reached on 13th May 1986. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 953
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG86101
Peak ID KANG
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Michael Groom
Sponsor Australian Kangchenjunga Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-04-13
Summit Date 1986-05-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8400m due to lack of experience and strength (can't really blame the weather)
High Point (m) 8400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(13/04,5500m),C1(18/04,6100m),C2(26/04,6700m),C3(11/05,7100m),C4(12/05,7600m),xxx(13/05,8400m)
Route Notes BC at 5300m at normal site on Yalung Glacier C1 at 6100m near top of the hump C2 at 6700m a little way up second icefall C3 at 7100m just below Great Shelf C4 at 7600m 200m below normal spot which is at bottom of gangway. Groom reached 8400m on 13 May in attempt to see how high he could get above C4; turned back when wind came up and skies clouded over. Rejoined Chemello and Van Gelder at C4 at 7600m. C4 too low because the two climbers with Groom pushing up to C4 having trouble in deep snow and were not very strong up. On 13th May Groom went on up alone to see how high he could get; took no bivy gear with him and returned to C4 same day. Frost and Strohfeldt had given up after 26th April when bad weather drove all down to BC. Other three waited for snowfall to stop and then tried summit push. All but Groom had no Himalayan expedition experience and Groom turned back at 8400m because he himself "didn't know what to expect at 8400m." Had been agreed second push would be the last.
Accidents None except Groom slight frostbite from 1-foot snow on gangway on May 13
Achievement 1st Australian attempt
Agency Remote Adventure
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449090
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shane Julian Chemello M 1959 Australia Climber Brisbane, QLD, Australia Outdoor education instructor Details Other expeditions
Christopher A. Frost M 1958 Australia Climber Brisbane, QLD, Australia Dentist Details Other expeditions
Michael Graeme Groom M 1959 Australia Leader Beechmont, QLD, Australia Plumber Details Other expeditions
James Alan Strohfeldt M 1959 Australia Climber Bulleen, Victoria, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions
James Van Gelder M 1961 Australia Climber Fyshwick, ACT, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG86101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:221 (1987) -
KANG86101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722101/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Attempt - - -