Kangchenjunga | 1984 SW Face

A Canada expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1984 via SW Face, led by Roger Marshall. Summit reached on 18th October 1984. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 992
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG84301
Peak ID KANG
Year 1984
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Canada
Leaders Roger Marshall
Sponsor International Kangchenjunga Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 18th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-09-14
Summit Date 1984-10-18
Summit Time 1930
Summit Days 34
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/09,5500m),C1(20/09,6200m),C2(28/09,7100m),C3(10/10,7700m),Smt(18/10)
Route Notes BC above Yalung Glacier on rocky greasy knoll C1 at top if first icefall (called "the lump") C2 on Great Shelf C3 on 200 ft below cwm of cycle, a big rock feature between Yalung Kang & Kangch. Fixed 200m rope above BC up first icefall in deep snow and then whole route fell off so the used Polish route to left of Beghin route here. Made dump at top of 2nd icefall on 24th Sept, but to acclimatize carried load to C1 for a while until ready to occupy C2 on 28th Sept. Put C3 tent on 5th Oct at 7500m, moved it next day to site he intended for it and then weather getting bad (high clouds and strong winds) and toes and fingertips freezing and back to BC on 12 Oct. Final push to top began night of 15 Oct, reached C3 on 17th in bad snow conditions. Started up on 18th Oct at 5:00 am with very cold toes in cold windy weather. Had to climb difficult rock band using Japanese rope there and at top of this at 4:30 pm where left rucksack as signal for finding route in descent. Coming down rock tripped, fell head first but somehow hooked arm in Japanese rope and tore cartilage in knee but unware of it. Reached C3 at 9:30 pm hallucinating, no food or drink since explosion of cooker on morning. Kept falling down on 19th descent of 6 hours to C2 "in bad shape." Coudray [who was on Yalung Kang] was in C2 and gave food and water but went on ahead of Marshall to C1 - knee and toes giving trouble. Marshall used French fixed ropes to top of 1st icefall but not above. Cindy to C1 one time when Marshall was there. "I don't think I'd do something like that again." Interested in soloing to 26,000 ft but not worth the really big effort to go higher. "It was a long climb."
Accidents Injured leg on fall during descent from summit
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448516
Year 1984
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Cynthia (Cindy) Cannell F 1949 USA BC Manager Colorado Springs, Colorado Photographer Details Other expeditions
Roger Gough Marshall M 1941 Canada Leader Colorado Springs, Colorado Writer (mountaineering) & alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG84301 AAJ Marshall, Roger - - 59:250 (1985) -
KANG84301 HJ Marshall, Roger Kangchenjunga Solo - 42:16-22 (1984-1985) -
KANG84301 MM - - - 102:12 (Mar 1985) -
KANG84301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198525001/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-Solo - - -
KANG84301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/42/4/kangchenjunga-solo/ - - -