Kangchenjunga | 1984 N Face (Japanese 1980 rte)

A New Zealand expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1984 via N Face (Japanese 1980 rte), led by Nick Banks. Summit reached on 8th May 1984. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	1033
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	KANG84102
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1984
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	N Face (Japanese 1980 rte)
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	New Zealand
Leaders	Nick Banks
Sponsor	New Zealand Kangchenjunga Expedition
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1984-03-27
Summit Date	1984-05-08
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	42
Total Days	51
Termination Date	1984-05-17
Termination Reason	4
Termination Notes	Abandoned at 8000m due to storms, avalanching, unstable snow and lack of food supplies
High Point (m)	8000
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	3
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	4
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	2
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(27/03,5030m),C1(07/04,5945m),C2(01/05,7165m),C3(06/05,7620m),xxx(08/05,8000m)
Route Notes	BC at Pangpema. NZ team of 4 attempted Japanese direct line route on N Face without oxygen and Sherpa support. Brice and Ball made 7000 ft push on 14th and when got to C2 found it squashed by avalanche and took 3 hours to dig it out for shelter. Deep snow all the way up had been problems. Because of depth of snow and avalanches conditions and lack of food, turned back on 15th. Just as well because great avalanche and ice blocks fell higher up. Retreated to BC 15th and left BC 17th. No manpower due to Brice and Banks being out of action. 2 Sherpas to C1 only to clear the camp.
Accidents	Brice fell in icefall and hurt ankle; Banks altitude sickness
Achievement	-
Agency	-
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	-
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2448353
Year	1984
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	n face (japanese 1980 rte)

Members

Field	Value
ID	15014
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG84102
Member ID	02
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1984
Season	1
First Name	Gary Ian
Last Name	Ball
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1953
Calculated Age	30
Citizenship	New Zealand
Status	Climber
Residence	Twizel, Canterbury, New Zealand
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8000
Summit Date 1	1984-05-08
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1953-1993) Died 6 Oct 1993 on Dhaulagiri I from pulmonary edema
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	2432463
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	gary ian ball
Year of Birth	1953
Year	1984
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	15015
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG84102
Member ID	01
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1984
Season	1
First Name	Nicholas Victor Aloysius (Nick)
Last Name	Banks
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1951
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	New Zealand
Status	Leader
Residence	Twizel, Canterbury, New Zealand
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	5945
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	True
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	1
Injury Height (m)	5945
Death Notes	Pulmonary edema (minor?)
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	6
HCN	0
Checksum	2431926
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	nicholas victor aloysius (nick) banks
Year of Birth	1951
Year	1984
Age at Expedition	33
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	15016
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG84102
Member ID	03
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1984
Season	1
First Name	Russell Reginald
Last Name	Brice
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1952
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	New Zealand
Status	Climber
Residence	Twizel, Canterbury, New Zealand
Occupation	Alpine guide
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8000
Summit Date 1	1984-05-08
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	True
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	4
Injury Height (m)	5800
Death Notes	Hurt ankle on fall in icefall
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	2432187
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	russell reginald brice
Year of Birth	1952
Year	1984
Age at Expedition	32
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	15017
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG84102
Member ID	04
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1984
Season	1
First Name	William (Bill)
Last Name	King
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1952
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	New Zealand
Status	Climber
Residence	Christchurch, New Zealand
Occupation	Civil servant (post office supervisor)
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	8000
Summit Date 1	1984-05-08
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	4
Summit Term	3
HCN	0
Checksum	2432338
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	william (bill) king
Year of Birth	1952
Year	1984
Age at Expedition	32
Role	Member

4 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Gary Ian Ball	M	1953	New Zealand	Climber	Twizel, Canterbury, New Zealand	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Nicholas Victor Aloysius (Nick) Banks	M	1951	New Zealand	Leader	Twizel, Canterbury, New Zealand	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
Russell Reginald Brice	M	1952	New Zealand	Climber	Twizel, Canterbury, New Zealand	Alpine guide	Details Other expeditions
William (Bill) King	M	1952	New Zealand	Climber	Christchurch, New Zealand	Civil servant (post office supervisor)	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	2
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KANG84102
Reference ID	01
Year	1984
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Ball, Gary
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1985
Language	-
Citation	59:249-250 (1985)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	4135
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KANG84102
Reference ID	02
Year	1984
Type	3
Journal	MM
Author	-
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1984
Language	-
Citation	99:9 (Sep 1984)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	7451
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KANG84102
Reference ID	03
Year	1984
Type	2
Journal	NZAJ
Author	King, Bill
Title	Kangchenjunga
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1984
Language	-
Citation	37:52-55 (1984)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	12579
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KANG84102
Reference ID	04
Year	1984
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198524900/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-North-Face-Attempt
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
KANG84102	AAJ	Ball, Gary	-	-	59:249-250 (1985)	-
KANG84102	MM	-	-	-	99:9 (Sep 1984)	-
KANG84102	NZAJ	King, Bill	Kangchenjunga	-	37:52-55 (1984)	-
KANG84102	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198524900/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-North-Face-Attempt	-	-	-