Kangchenjunga | 1983 N Face
A Switzerland expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1983 via N Face, led by Denis Bertholet. Summit reached on 21st October 1983. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 142 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KANG83301 |
| Peak ID | KANG |
| Year | 1983 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Switzerland |
| Leaders | Denis Bertholet |
| Sponsor | Swiss Expedition 1983 to Kangchenjunga |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 15th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Ghunsa->Pangpema (BC) |
| Basecamp Date | 1983-09-10 |
| Summit Date | 1983-10-21 |
| Summit Time | 1720 |
| Summit Days | 41 |
| Total Days | 46 |
| Termination Date | 1983-10-26 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8586 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 9 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(10/09,5000m),C1(17/09,5300m),C2(18/09,5800m),C3(30/09,6650m),C4(19/10,7250m),C5(20/10,7750m),Smt(21/10) |
| Route Notes | BC at Pangpema meadows. No more on top because strong wind next day. Rieben went upon 22rd a little but back without success. Were also ready to go for Yalung Kang summit, but avalanche danger too great and all down to C1 that day and to BC on 23rd and left 26 Oct. Had 2 long spells of bad weather and feared when had only gotten to C3 that would have no success. Did not use Japanese route because too many avalanches onto 1st icefield. From C5 route to Yalang Kang looked more difficult and more risky from avalanches than to main summit. Bruchez has frostbite which will heal, but Michellod may lose some toes which froze while digging C5 snowhole. Khadga, Tourism - 1 Nov 83 Report of members now in KTM: C1 5450m C2 5800m C3 6650m 1 Oct and 4 members here 5 days because bad weather C4 7250m 18 Oct C5 7650m 20 Oct 21 summit 1) Marco Bruchez at 5:20 pm 2) Vincent May and went down to C5 at 8:30 pm in moonlight 22 Oct - 2 summiters and 3 others left C5 to C2 23 Oct - all material to BC 24 Oct - strong wind destroyed BC. Bruchez and Dominique Michellod treated for deep frostbite in feet and hands 25 Oct - 3 left BC to come to KTM by helicopter from Ghunsa; others left BC and should arrive KTM 5 Nov No attempt on Yalung Kang. |
| Accidents | Bruchez has frostbite which will heal, but Michellod may lose toes which froze while digging C5 snowhole |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448152 |
| Year | 1983 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Denis Bertholet | M | 1929 | Switzerland | Leader | Verbier, Valais, Switzerland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Marco Bruchez | M | 1953 | Switzerland | Climber | Lourtier, Valais, Switzerland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Gervais Filliez | M | 1955 | Switzerland | Climber | Le Chable, Valais, Switzerland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Vincent May | M | 1951 | Switzerland | Climber | Fionnay, Switzerland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Rene Mayor | M | 1938 | Switzerland | Climber | Mont-sur-Rolle, Vaud, Switzerland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Dominique Michellod | M | 1955 | Switzerland | Climber | Sion, Valais, Switzerland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Claude Pfefferle | M | 1953 | Switzerland | Exp Doctor | Sion, Valais, Switzerland | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Bernard Polli | M | 1951 | Switzerland | Deputy Leader | Verbier, Valais, Switzerland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean-Pierre Rieben | M | 1947 | Switzerland | Climber | Les Marecottes, Valais, Switzerland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Pasang Gyalzen Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KANG83301 | AAJ | Bertholet, Denis | - | - | 58:227-228 (1984) | - |
| KANG83301 | MM | - | - | - | 96:10 (Mar 1984) | - |
| KANG83301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198422700/Asia-Nepal-Kanchenjunga-North-Face | - | - | - |