Kangchenjunga | 1983 N Face

A Switzerland expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1983 via N Face, led by Denis Bertholet. Summit reached on 21st October 1983. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 142
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG83301
Peak ID KANG
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Denis Bertholet
Sponsor Swiss Expedition 1983 to Kangchenjunga
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 15th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Ghunsa->Pangpema (BC)
Basecamp Date 1983-09-10
Summit Date 1983-10-21
Summit Time 1720
Summit Days 41
Total Days 46
Termination Date 1983-10-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/09,5000m),C1(17/09,5300m),C2(18/09,5800m),C3(30/09,6650m),C4(19/10,7250m),C5(20/10,7750m),Smt(21/10)
Route Notes BC at Pangpema meadows. No more on top because strong wind next day. Rieben went upon 22rd a little but back without success. Were also ready to go for Yalung Kang summit, but avalanche danger too great and all down to C1 that day and to BC on 23rd and left 26 Oct. Had 2 long spells of bad weather and feared when had only gotten to C3 that would have no success. Did not use Japanese route because too many avalanches onto 1st icefield. From C5 route to Yalang Kang looked more difficult and more risky from avalanches than to main summit. Bruchez has frostbite which will heal, but Michellod may lose some toes which froze while digging C5 snowhole. Khadga, Tourism - 1 Nov 83 Report of members now in KTM: C1 5450m C2 5800m C3 6650m 1 Oct and 4 members here 5 days because bad weather C4 7250m 18 Oct C5 7650m 20 Oct 21 summit 1) Marco Bruchez at 5:20 pm 2) Vincent May and went down to C5 at 8:30 pm in moonlight 22 Oct - 2 summiters and 3 others left C5 to C2 23 Oct - all material to BC 24 Oct - strong wind destroyed BC. Bruchez and Dominique Michellod treated for deep frostbite in feet and hands 25 Oct - 3 left BC to come to KTM by helicopter from Ghunsa; others left BC and should arrive KTM 5 Nov No attempt on Yalung Kang.
Accidents Bruchez has frostbite which will heal, but Michellod may lose toes which froze while digging C5 snowhole
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448152
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Denis Bertholet M 1929 Switzerland Leader Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Marco Bruchez M 1953 Switzerland Climber Lourtier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gervais Filliez M 1955 Switzerland Climber Le Chable, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Vincent May M 1951 Switzerland Climber Fionnay, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Rene Mayor M 1938 Switzerland Climber Mont-sur-Rolle, Vaud, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Dominique Michellod M 1955 Switzerland Climber Sion, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Claude Pfefferle M 1953 Switzerland Exp Doctor Sion, Valais, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Bernard Polli M 1951 Switzerland Deputy Leader Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Pierre Rieben M 1947 Switzerland Climber Les Marecottes, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pasang Gyalzen Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG83301 AAJ Bertholet, Denis - - 58:227-228 (1984) -
KANG83301 MM - - - 96:10 (Mar 1984) -
KANG83301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198422700/Asia-Nepal-Kanchenjunga-North-Face - - -