Kangchenjunga | 1981 SW Face

A France expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1981 via SW Face, led by Jean-Jacques Ricouard. Summit reached on 15th October 1981. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1784
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG81301
Peak ID KANG
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Jean-Jacques Ricouard
Sponsor French Kanchenjunga Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 10th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-09-12
Summit Date 1981-10-15
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 33
Total Days 39
Termination Date 1981-10-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/09,5340m),C1(20/09,6100m),C2(25/09,7100m),C3(04/10,7600m),Smt(15/10)
Route Notes Parmentier - 8 Nov 81 Route was SW Face route of 1955 British BC to C3. Then on final days climb, an ice gully goes to top and French went to right of this gully too soon (wanted to get out into sunshine because it was very cold) and had hard rock climbing from 8000m. Parmentier - 7 Nov 81 All arrived KTM yesterday evening (except doctor who left expedition early as planned). BC - 5340m -12 Sept C1 - 6100m -20 Sept C2 - 7100m -25 Sept (storm) C3 - 7600m - 4 Oct 5 climbed together. 1st time at C2 on 4 Oct, next 3-4 days later but too early to be sure to reach top. Went down to BC to rest, sleep and eat and be ready to try for top without oxygen. Were very tired after 2 carries in deep snow to C2. Weather became good and on 11th ready to go. 5 men ready to go, 5 men went up. Pallet, Berruex, Gaby and 2 Sherpas were to try with or without oxygen. All well acclimatized and Parmentier and Ricouard reached C2 easily but all were really at end of strength. Reached C3 together on 11th. Started for top 1:00 am on 15th in cloudless weather. 1 hour later too cold: Parmentier lost feeling in fingers and toes and wanted to return to camp but Ricouard did not agree: massaged themselves and then went on. Used right (best) way but kept on; 7:00 am, sun came out and rock climbing went well. At 200m from top Ricouard said too tired to go on but Parmentier urged him on. Parmentier and Ricouard went to top at 3:00 pm stayed only 10 minutes because very cold. Ricouard and Parmentier very close friends in Paris, like brothers. Embraced each other in happiness on reaching top. "Now we have to go very slowly because of summit stupid to have accident" (Ricouard's last words). Ricouard went ahead in gully and Parmentier fell little, did not know when Ricouard was gone; found his pick and thought it a joke but did not find him at C3 at 6:00 pm return. Parmentier in good condition. Next morning Sherpas came up to C3 thinking he knew Ricouard had fallen 1000m between C2 and C3 and body completely broken. Body to be put in crevasse but legs pulled and came separated so covered with snow. At BC carved stone in memory with name and date of death next to stones of '05 Swiss and 2 Mexicans Alex Pache. Took Parmentier 2 days to get down to BC because of fear of own accident. Others were not acclimatized and after accident made no attempt. Was an expedition of friends and not expensive. Paid by themselves. Now even better friends. Oxygen never used; had 8 old bottles half full. Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 81 Jean-Jacques Ricouard, 1952, journalist and climber, Paris 5 climbing members. Ricouard and Michel Parmentier reached summit on Oct 15 without oxygen. Expedition had established C3 at 7700m Oct 4. While descending from summit, Ricouard slipped just below top and fell 300m and was dead. Oct 16 body was left just below summit of Kangchenjunga. Not clear whether body reached and or buried. Leaving BC Oct 21. Ricouard - 17 Aug 81 2 members arrived tomorrow, 4 arrived yesterday Leave KTM 22 to 24 August by road to Ilam Wwalk via Taplejung in 18 days trek (20 days KTM->BC). Route = SW Face 1955 British. Long route for 5 French climbers and 2 Sherpas above BC; if successful will be 1st autumn ascent of Kangchenjunga. BC at 5430m C1 6500m (C2 of '55) C2 7300m (temp camp) C3 7800m (temp camp) C4 8400m (temp camp) Mixed logistics of high and heavy expedition Previously used oxygen bottles only Arrived BC about 11 Sept Summit we hope at 15 Oct but probably 20-25 Oct.
Accidents Ricouard fatal fall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447414
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michel Berruex M 1945 France Climber St. Gervais, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gilles Gaby M 1948 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Brigitte Lataud F 1948 France Exp Doctor Paris, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Michel Parmentier M 1950 France Climber Paris, France Radio reporter Details Other expeditions
Michel Pelle M 1947 France Climber Orleans-la-Source, Loiret, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Jacques Ricouard M 1952 France Leader Paris, France Alpine guide & editor of a mountaineering magazine Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions
Ang Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG81301 AAJ Berruex, Michel - - 56:199-201 (1982) -
KANG81301 HJ Parmentier, Michel The French Expedition to Kangchenjunga, Autumn 1981 - 39:163-165 (1981-1982) -
KANG81301 MM - - - 83:10 (Jan 1982) -
KANG81301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198219902/Asia-Nepal-Kanchenjunga-Ascent-and-Tragedy - - -
KANG81301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/39/23/expeditions-and-notes-39/ - - -