Kangchenjunga | 1981 N Face

A Czechoslovakia expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1981 via N Face, led by Ivan Galfy. Summit reached on 20th May 1981. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1816
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG81102
Peak ID KANG
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czechoslovakia
Leaders Ivan Galfy
Sponsor Czechoslovak Himalayan Expedition - Kangchenjunga
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 9th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-04-19
Summit Date 1981-05-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 31
Total Days 36
Termination Date 1981-05-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/04,5080m),C1(22/04,5200m),C2(24/04,5800m),C3(05/05,6650m),C4(17/05,7300m),C5(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes Galfy - 11 June 81 BC 19 April 5080m C1 22 April 5200m C2 24 April 5800m C3 5 May 6650m C4 17 May 7300m C5 19 May 7900m Summit by Psotka and Zahoransky Route = 1980 Spring Japanese route and same as Doug Scott towards summit Czech C2 = Japanese C1 (Japanese had much longer acclimatization period) 5 to 17 May: avalanche took away lot of fixed rope and other materials and rock band had to be fixed with rope. C2 destroyed also (but no one on it). Rock band more difficult then expected because didn't expect water ice; otherwise route not more difficult than expected. Ice towers after avalanche became very dangerous. No oxygen used at all. No more men on summit because Radio Nepal forecast coming of monsoon. From 23 May was a week of very bad weather. Left BC 25 May. Shailendra Sharma - 25 May 81 2 members: Josef Psotka and Ludovit Zahoransky reached summit from North Face without oxygen on 20 May afternoon. Stayed on top 20 minutes and put Czech and Nepalese flags. Climbed from C4 (7900m/25,920 ft). Oto Chudy, Jannu - 25 April 81 Czechoslovakian Kangchenjunga BC 19 Apr = 5080m C1 22 Apr = 5200m C2 24 Apr = 5800m (C2 is almost the same as Scott/Karishi C1) Minor health problems reported. Galfy via Chudy - 1 April 81 North Face Japanese route generally with same changes in last 500m+. BC at 5050m at Pangpema 5 camps above BC with C5 at 7800-7900m 1 Sherpa above BC Oxygen taken but hope not to use Arrived BC 17-19 April 5-6 weeks climb Leave KTM 2 April to Dharan Leave Tamur River 4 April
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447266
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ivan Galfy M 1933 Czechoslovakia Leader Dolny Smokovec, Czechoslovakia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Igor Miko M 1936 Czechoslovakia Exp Doctor Novy Smokovec, Czechoslovakia Physician (pediatrician) Details Other expeditions
Andrej Belica M 1956 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Engineering student Details Other expeditions
Frantisek Dostal M 1940 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Jozef Just M 1955 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Mechanical-engineering student Details Other expeditions
Jan Obuch M 1951 Czechoslovakia Climber Horny Hricov, Czechoslovakia Agricultural engineer Details Other expeditions
Frantisek Piacek M 1948 Czechoslovakia Climber Povazska Bystrica, Czechoslovakia Technician Details Other expeditions
Jan Piroh M 1946 Czechoslovakia Cameraman Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Cameraman Details Other expeditions
Jan Porvaznik M 1956 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Mechanical-engineering student Details Other expeditions
Jozef Psotka M 1934 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia University teacher of electronics Details Other expeditions
Vladimir (Vlado) Tatarka M 1945 Czechoslovakia Climber Stary Smokovec, Czechoslovakia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Peter Valovic M 1955 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Student Details Other expeditions
Ludovit Zahoransky M 1939 Czechoslovakia Climber Ostrava-Zabreh, Czechoslovakia Workshop foreman for mining company Details Other expeditions
Marian Zatko M 1945 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Architect Details Other expeditions
Jaromir (Jaryk) Stejskal M 1949 Czechoslovakia Climber Bratislava, Czechoslovakia Technician Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG81102 AAJ Galfy, Ivan - - 56:198-199 (1982) -
KANG81102 MM - - - 80:12 (Jul 1981) -
KANG81102 - Piroh, Jan Kacandzunga 8598m Sport, Bratislava - P222
KANG81102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198219800/Asia-Nepal-Kanchenjunga-North-Face - - -