Kangchenjunga | 1981 N Face
A Czechoslovakia expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1981 via N Face, led by Ivan Galfy. Summit reached on 20th May 1981. 15 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1816 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KANG81102 |
| Peak ID | KANG |
| Year | 1981 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Czechoslovakia |
| Leaders | Ivan Galfy |
| Sponsor | Czechoslovak Himalayan Expedition - Kangchenjunga |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 9th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1981-04-19 |
| Summit Date | 1981-05-20 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 31 |
| Total Days | 36 |
| Termination Date | 1981-05-25 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8586 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 15 |
| Summit Members | 2 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(19/04,5080m),C1(22/04,5200m),C2(24/04,5800m),C3(05/05,6650m),C4(17/05,7300m),C5(19/05,7900m),Smt(20/05) |
| Route Notes | Galfy - 11 June 81 BC 19 April 5080m C1 22 April 5200m C2 24 April 5800m C3 5 May 6650m C4 17 May 7300m C5 19 May 7900m Summit by Psotka and Zahoransky Route = 1980 Spring Japanese route and same as Doug Scott towards summit Czech C2 = Japanese C1 (Japanese had much longer acclimatization period) 5 to 17 May: avalanche took away lot of fixed rope and other materials and rock band had to be fixed with rope. C2 destroyed also (but no one on it). Rock band more difficult then expected because didn't expect water ice; otherwise route not more difficult than expected. Ice towers after avalanche became very dangerous. No oxygen used at all. No more men on summit because Radio Nepal forecast coming of monsoon. From 23 May was a week of very bad weather. Left BC 25 May. Shailendra Sharma - 25 May 81 2 members: Josef Psotka and Ludovit Zahoransky reached summit from North Face without oxygen on 20 May afternoon. Stayed on top 20 minutes and put Czech and Nepalese flags. Climbed from C4 (7900m/25,920 ft). Oto Chudy, Jannu - 25 April 81 Czechoslovakian Kangchenjunga BC 19 Apr = 5080m C1 22 Apr = 5200m C2 24 Apr = 5800m (C2 is almost the same as Scott/Karishi C1) Minor health problems reported. Galfy via Chudy - 1 April 81 North Face Japanese route generally with same changes in last 500m+. BC at 5050m at Pangpema 5 camps above BC with C5 at 7800-7900m 1 Sherpa above BC Oxygen taken but hope not to use Arrived BC 17-19 April 5-6 weeks climb Leave KTM 2 April to Dharan Leave Tamur River 4 April |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447266 |
| Year | 1981 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face |
Members
15 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ivan Galfy | M | 1933 | Czechoslovakia | Leader | Dolny Smokovec, Czechoslovakia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Igor Miko | M | 1936 | Czechoslovakia | Exp Doctor | Novy Smokovec, Czechoslovakia | Physician (pediatrician) | Details Other expeditions |
| Andrej Belica | M | 1956 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Engineering student | Details Other expeditions |
| Frantisek Dostal | M | 1940 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Film-maker | Details Other expeditions |
| Jozef Just | M | 1955 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Mechanical-engineering student | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Obuch | M | 1951 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Horny Hricov, Czechoslovakia | Agricultural engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Frantisek Piacek | M | 1948 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Povazska Bystrica, Czechoslovakia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Piroh | M | 1946 | Czechoslovakia | Cameraman | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Cameraman | Details Other expeditions |
| Jan Porvaznik | M | 1956 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Mechanical-engineering student | Details Other expeditions |
| Jozef Psotka | M | 1934 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | University teacher of electronics | Details Other expeditions |
| Vladimir (Vlado) Tatarka | M | 1945 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Stary Smokovec, Czechoslovakia | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Peter Valovic | M | 1955 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Ludovit Zahoransky | M | 1939 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Ostrava-Zabreh, Czechoslovakia | Workshop foreman for mining company | Details Other expeditions |
| Marian Zatko | M | 1945 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Architect | Details Other expeditions |
| Jaromir (Jaryk) Stejskal | M | 1949 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bratislava, Czechoslovakia | Technician | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KANG81102 | AAJ | Galfy, Ivan | - | - | 56:198-199 (1982) | - |
| KANG81102 | MM | - | - | - | 80:12 (Jul 1981) | - |
| KANG81102 | - | Piroh, Jan | Kacandzunga 8598m | Sport, Bratislava | - | P222 |
| KANG81102 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198219800/Asia-Nepal-Kanchenjunga-North-Face | - | - | - |