Kangchenjunga | 1981 SW Face
A Japan expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1981 via SW Face, led by Kinichi Yamamori. Summit reached on 9th May 1981. 25 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1849 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KANG81101 |
| Peak ID | KANG |
| Year | 1981 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Kinichi Yamamori |
| Sponsor | Himalayan Association of Japan Kangchenjunga Expedition 1981 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 8th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1981-03-16 |
| Summit Date | 1981-05-09 |
| Summit Time | 1151 |
| Summit Days | 54 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8586 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 5 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 22 |
| Summit Members | 5 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 15 |
| Summit Hired | 1 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | True |
| O2 None | False |
| O2 Climb | True |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | Climbed Yalung Kang (YALU-811-02) |
| Campsites | BC(16/03,5500m),C1(22/03,6150m),C2(29/03,6450m),C3.ABC(14/04,7300m),C4M(22/04,7850m),C5M(08/05,8250m),Smt(09/05) |
| Route Notes | Kikuchi, et al - 29 May 81 Traverse from main summit to Yalung Kang planned to be by Yamada and Fujikura and other 4 Kangchenjunga summiters were support team (Hoseka, Kataoka, Suzuki and Nima Temba). Ogata and Yashima to traverse from Yalung Kang to Kangchenjunga and other 3 in support (Yajihara, Tobita and Tsunoda). Idea was double traverse crossing on ridge between 2 peaks. Abandoned traverse idea because Fujikura took so long from final camp to summit: not 3 hours from 8300m final camp to Kangchenjunga and 8 hours in deep snow to Yalung Kang and 2 Kangchenjunga summiters looked at final ridge to Yalung Kang, very difficult and maybe 2 days with a biv between peaks. So each team including supporters went to top and returned they had gone to respective summits. All returned to KTM yesterday and all well except some frostbitten toes that will heal. BC establihed by advance team; full expedition in BC 31 March. BC - 16 March - 5500m C1 - 22 March - 6150m C2 - 29 March - 6450m C3 - 31 March - 7300m ABC reached occupied in 14 April for complete acclimatization at 4200m rest camp. C4W - 20 April - 7850m (Yalung Kang) C4M - 23 April - 7850m (Main) C5W - 8 May - 8250m (Yalung Kang) C5M - 8 May - 8300m (Main) Summits on 9 May: both teams descended that day to C3. On Yalung Kang no trace of Mexican lost near top. Both teams left survey poles atop both peaks; each pole 2m high red and white alternately with support wires for Kangchenjunga pole. Big avalanche from 7000m to glacier 2 km wide; no one hurt, but route wiped out and few loads lost. Small avalanche came near C2 and 2 Sherpas injured. All summiters used oxygen from their C5's. No accidents. Yalung Kang summiters think traverse to main peak more difficult then vice versa; also think Japanese 1973 expedition not successful. Ogata & Yogihara (Yamamori) - 20 Feb 81 If South and Central summits permitted, will not go to Yalung Kang. One party to South Summit and traverse Central Summit to Main. ABC (C3) - 7100m (Great Shelf) S C4 - 7600m S C5 - 8300m below South Summit Camp between Central and Main summit = Main C5 - 8350m Other support party direct to Main Summit via Main C5 8350m as support for first party. Both parties descend from Main Summit direct to Great Shelf. 1st day support party to Main Summit and down to their C4 at 7800m. Next day South Summit party to S Summit from their C5 to Central Summit to support C5. 3rd day S Summit party to Main Summit and down to support C4. 4th day both parties to C2. 3 members now in KTM 3 members now in Biratnagar 7 members left Dharan on 16 Feb for BC 1 (Dr.) arrives KTM 20 Feb 4 KTM-ites leave KTM 24 Feb Kikuchi - 5 Feb 81 Kangchenjunga Main BC - 5500m C1 - 6100m C2 - 6300m C3 - 7100m C4 - 7800m C5 - 8300m Route and camps to great shelf same for both summits Yalung Kang C4 = 7800m C5 = 8350m From Yalung down towards main peak very steep knife ridge, so traverse may not be possible. Might go up main peak via couloir and down British route. Kikuchi - 27 Jan 81 9 climbers to Yalung Kang via Great Shelf. Summiters then traverse ridge to Kangchenjunga Main peak, same route as 1975 Germans. To main peak - 1) to make route for traverse descent and 2) to reach summit from somewhere - British route Traverse from Yalung Kang to main Kangchenjunga will biv at Col on way to Kangchenjunga. 15 HA Sherpas including 2 sirdars: Pemba Nurbu (Namche, 31, Polish winter sirdar, Everest summiter with Koreans) Pemba Tshering (Thami, 36, spring 1980 Kangch Japanese North Face w/o oxygen) Oxygen for some climbers if want it. 50 bottles with expedition and all will try not to use, some definitely will not use it. BC 5500m at end March, summits mid to end May 4 camps above BC to Yalung Kang. C4 8350m, high because of traverse 4 camps for main peak, C4 8300m 60 porters 18 climbers, 1 doctor and 1 leader = 20 members Kaoru Kikuchi - 5 June 78 Himalayan Association of Japan plan send 17 members "recce" to climb Kangchenjunga's South Summit in spring 1981 and another 17-member team to go to S Summit and traverse via Central Summit (8478m), a virgin peak, to Main Summit, a distance of 2 km. BC on Yalung Glacier, route via Great Shelf. Yalung Kang: Yagihara, Ogata, Tobita, Yashima and Tsunoda |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2447255 |
| Year | 1981 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | Used |
| Route (lowercase) | sw face |
Members
25 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kazumi Fujikura | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeru Fukuyama | M | 1951 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Akinori Hosaka | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Asaka, Fukushima, Japan | Chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Kunio Kataoka | M | 1954 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Driver and office worker in a transport company | Details Other expeditions |
| Ryoko Kato | F | 1935 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Tokyo, Japan | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Yasuji Kato | M | 1949 | Japan | Wireless Operater | Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan | Electrical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Kaoru Kikuchi | M | 1946 | Japan | Deputy Leader | Tome, Miyagi, Japan | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Shin Komatsu | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Sakata, Yamagata, Japan | Farmer | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshiharu Nikai | M | 1954 | Japan | Climber | Koriyama, Fukushima, Japan | Electronics engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Yoshio Ogata | M | 1948 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Chemical engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Takashi Sakuma | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Nakatsuhito, Kanagawa, Japan | Worker in motorcar factory | Details Other expeditions |
| Jisaburo Suzuki | M | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Sendai, Miyagi, Japan | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Shigeru Suzuki | M | 1955 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Construction worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Toshimasa Tanioka | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan | Salesman in mountaineering-equipment shop | Details Other expeditions |
| Kazuo Tobita | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Engine driver on Japan National Railways | Details Other expeditions |
| Fuji Tsunoda | M | 1952 | Japan | Climber | Kitamoto, Saitama, Japan | Book publisher | Details Other expeditions |
| Makihiro Wakao | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Tatsuno, Nagano, Japan | Operator of heavy construction equipment | Details Other expeditions |
| Yu Watanabe | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Tokonameri, Aichi, Japan | Civil engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Kuniaki Yagihara | M | 1946 | Japan | Climber | Maebashi, Gunma, Japan | House painter | Details Other expeditions |
| Noboru Yamada | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Numata, Gunma, Japan | House painter | Details Other expeditions |
| Kinichi Yamamori | M | 1944 | Japan | Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Managing director of Himalayan Association of Japan | Details Other expeditions |
| Hiroshi Yashima | M | 1950 | Japan | Climber | Sendai, Miyagi, Japan | Worker in food-canning factory | Details Other expeditions |
| Nima Temba Sherpa | M | 1956 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Lukla, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pemba Nurbu/Norbu Sherpa | M | 1949 | Nepal | Sirdar | Namche Bazar, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pemba Tshering Sherpa | M | 1943 | Nepal | Sirdar | Thamo, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
7 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KANG81101 | AAJ | Yamamori, Kinichi | - | - | 56:199 (1982) | - |
| KANG81101 | HJ | Yamamori, Kinichi | The Japanese Kangchenjunga Expedition | - | 38:155 (1980-1981) | - |
| KANG81101 | MM | - | - | - | 80:12 (Jul 1981) | - |
| KANG81101 | IWA | - | - | - | 88:184 (1982) | - |
| KANG81101 | IWA | - | - | - | 88:32-33 (1982) | - |
| KANG81101 | - | Himalayan Association of Japan | Kangchenjunga West and East | The Club, Tokyo | - | jN235 |
| KANG81101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198219901/Asia-Nepal-Kanchenjunga-and-Yalungkang | - | - | - |