Kangchenjunga | 1981 SW Face

A Japan expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1981 via SW Face, led by Kinichi Yamamori. Summit reached on 9th May 1981. 25 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1849
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG81101
Peak ID KANG
Year 1981
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kinichi Yamamori
Sponsor Himalayan Association of Japan Kangchenjunga Expedition 1981
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 8th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-03-16
Summit Date 1981-05-09
Summit Time 1151
Summit Days 54
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 22
Summit Members 5
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 15
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Yalung Kang (YALU-811-02)
Campsites BC(16/03,5500m),C1(22/03,6150m),C2(29/03,6450m),C3.ABC(14/04,7300m),C4M(22/04,7850m),C5M(08/05,8250m),Smt(09/05)
Route Notes Kikuchi, et al - 29 May 81 Traverse from main summit to Yalung Kang planned to be by Yamada and Fujikura and other 4 Kangchenjunga summiters were support team (Hoseka, Kataoka, Suzuki and Nima Temba). Ogata and Yashima to traverse from Yalung Kang to Kangchenjunga and other 3 in support (Yajihara, Tobita and Tsunoda). Idea was double traverse crossing on ridge between 2 peaks. Abandoned traverse idea because Fujikura took so long from final camp to summit: not 3 hours from 8300m final camp to Kangchenjunga and 8 hours in deep snow to Yalung Kang and 2 Kangchenjunga summiters looked at final ridge to Yalung Kang, very difficult and maybe 2 days with a biv between peaks. So each team including supporters went to top and returned they had gone to respective summits. All returned to KTM yesterday and all well except some frostbitten toes that will heal. BC establihed by advance team; full expedition in BC 31 March. BC - 16 March - 5500m C1 - 22 March - 6150m C2 - 29 March - 6450m C3 - 31 March - 7300m ABC reached occupied in 14 April for complete acclimatization at 4200m rest camp. C4W - 20 April - 7850m (Yalung Kang) C4M - 23 April - 7850m (Main) C5W - 8 May - 8250m (Yalung Kang) C5M - 8 May - 8300m (Main) Summits on 9 May: both teams descended that day to C3. On Yalung Kang no trace of Mexican lost near top. Both teams left survey poles atop both peaks; each pole 2m high red and white alternately with support wires for Kangchenjunga pole. Big avalanche from 7000m to glacier 2 km wide; no one hurt, but route wiped out and few loads lost. Small avalanche came near C2 and 2 Sherpas injured. All summiters used oxygen from their C5's. No accidents. Yalung Kang summiters think traverse to main peak more difficult then vice versa; also think Japanese 1973 expedition not successful. Ogata & Yogihara (Yamamori) - 20 Feb 81 If South and Central summits permitted, will not go to Yalung Kang. One party to South Summit and traverse Central Summit to Main. ABC (C3) - 7100m (Great Shelf) S C4 - 7600m S C5 - 8300m below South Summit Camp between Central and Main summit = Main C5 - 8350m Other support party direct to Main Summit via Main C5 8350m as support for first party. Both parties descend from Main Summit direct to Great Shelf. 1st day support party to Main Summit and down to their C4 at 7800m. Next day South Summit party to S Summit from their C5 to Central Summit to support C5. 3rd day S Summit party to Main Summit and down to support C4. 4th day both parties to C2. 3 members now in KTM 3 members now in Biratnagar 7 members left Dharan on 16 Feb for BC 1 (Dr.) arrives KTM 20 Feb 4 KTM-ites leave KTM 24 Feb Kikuchi - 5 Feb 81 Kangchenjunga Main BC - 5500m C1 - 6100m C2 - 6300m C3 - 7100m C4 - 7800m C5 - 8300m Route and camps to great shelf same for both summits Yalung Kang C4 = 7800m C5 = 8350m From Yalung down towards main peak very steep knife ridge, so traverse may not be possible. Might go up main peak via couloir and down British route. Kikuchi - 27 Jan 81 9 climbers to Yalung Kang via Great Shelf. Summiters then traverse ridge to Kangchenjunga Main peak, same route as 1975 Germans. To main peak - 1) to make route for traverse descent and 2) to reach summit from somewhere - British route Traverse from Yalung Kang to main Kangchenjunga will biv at Col on way to Kangchenjunga. 15 HA Sherpas including 2 sirdars: Pemba Nurbu (Namche, 31, Polish winter sirdar, Everest summiter with Koreans) Pemba Tshering (Thami, 36, spring 1980 Kangch Japanese North Face w/o oxygen) Oxygen for some climbers if want it. 50 bottles with expedition and all will try not to use, some definitely will not use it. BC 5500m at end March, summits mid to end May 4 camps above BC to Yalung Kang. C4 8350m, high because of traverse 4 camps for main peak, C4 8300m 60 porters 18 climbers, 1 doctor and 1 leader = 20 members Kaoru Kikuchi - 5 June 78 Himalayan Association of Japan plan send 17 members "recce" to climb Kangchenjunga's South Summit in spring 1981 and another 17-member team to go to S Summit and traverse via Central Summit (8478m), a virgin peak, to Main Summit, a distance of 2 km. BC on Yalung Glacier, route via Great Shelf. Yalung Kang: Yagihara, Ogata, Tobita, Yashima and Tsunoda
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2447255
Year 1981
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

25 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kazumi Fujikura M 1950 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Shigeru Fukuyama M 1951 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Akinori Hosaka M 1948 Japan Climber Asaka, Fukushima, Japan Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Kunio Kataoka M 1954 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Driver and office worker in a transport company Details Other expeditions
Ryoko Kato F 1935 Japan Exp Doctor Tokyo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions
Yasuji Kato M 1949 Japan Wireless Operater Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Kaoru Kikuchi M 1946 Japan Deputy Leader Tome, Miyagi, Japan Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Shin Komatsu M 1950 Japan Climber Sakata, Yamagata, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions
Yoshiharu Nikai M 1954 Japan Climber Koriyama, Fukushima, Japan Electronics engineer Details Other expeditions
Yoshio Ogata M 1948 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Takashi Sakuma M 1950 Japan Climber Nakatsuhito, Kanagawa, Japan Worker in motorcar factory Details Other expeditions
Jisaburo Suzuki M 1955 Japan Climber Sendai, Miyagi, Japan Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Shigeru Suzuki M 1955 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Construction worker Details Other expeditions
Toshimasa Tanioka M 1953 Japan Climber Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan Salesman in mountaineering-equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Tobita M 1946 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Engine driver on Japan National Railways Details Other expeditions
Fuji Tsunoda M 1952 Japan Climber Kitamoto, Saitama, Japan Book publisher Details Other expeditions
Makihiro Wakao M 1949 Japan Climber Tatsuno, Nagano, Japan Operator of heavy construction equipment Details Other expeditions
Yu Watanabe M 1946 Japan Climber Tokonameri, Aichi, Japan Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Kuniaki Yagihara M 1946 Japan Climber Maebashi, Gunma, Japan House painter Details Other expeditions
Noboru Yamada M 1950 Japan Climber Numata, Gunma, Japan House painter Details Other expeditions
Kinichi Yamamori M 1944 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Managing director of Himalayan Association of Japan Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Yashima M 1950 Japan Climber Sendai, Miyagi, Japan Worker in food-canning factory Details Other expeditions
Nima Temba Sherpa M 1956 Nepal H-A Worker Lukla, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Nurbu/Norbu Sherpa M 1949 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M 1943 Nepal Sirdar Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG81101 AAJ Yamamori, Kinichi - - 56:199 (1982) -
KANG81101 HJ Yamamori, Kinichi The Japanese Kangchenjunga Expedition - 38:155 (1980-1981) -
KANG81101 MM - - - 80:12 (Jul 1981) -
KANG81101 IWA - - - 88:184 (1982) -
KANG81101 IWA - - - 88:32-33 (1982) -
KANG81101 - Himalayan Association of Japan Kangchenjunga West and East The Club, Tokyo - jN235
KANG81101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198219901/Asia-Nepal-Kanchenjunga-and-Yalungkang - - -