Kangchenjunga | 1980 N Face
A Japan expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1980 via N Face, led by Masatsugu Konishi. Summit reached on 14th May 1980. 13 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1902 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KANG80101 |
| Peak ID | KANG |
| Year | 1980 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Japan |
| Leaders | Masatsugu Konishi |
| Sponsor | Sangaku Doshikai Kangchenjunga Expedition 1980 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 5th,7th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1980-03-20 |
| Summit Date | 1980-05-14 |
| Summit Time | 1628 |
| Summit Days | 55 |
| Total Days | 66 |
| Termination Date | 1980-05-25 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8586 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 10 |
| Summit Members | 6 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 11 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(20/03,5050m),C1(01/04,5800m),C2(07/04,6500m),C3(17/04,7300m),C4(30/04,7900m),Smt(14,17/05) |
| Route Notes | Sakashita - 8 June 80 2 weeks from C4 to top for acclimatization because had no oxygen, otherwise dangerous to go above 8000m. 3 times acclimatized at 8000m. Followed route as planned (see photo in leaflet). Most difficult part of route technically was from 1st to 2nd ice fields. mixed rock and ice. No accidents, serious illness or serious frostbite. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 June 80 Summit 17 May Motomu Ohmiya, born 49, salesman, Tokyo Toshitaka Sakano, born 44, doctor, Tokyo Pemba Tsering, 36, Namche [Thamo?] Dawa Norbu, 25 On top 5:30 pm and returned to last camp 10:00 pm; started 3:30 am. Masatsugu Konishi, leader, started out with them from last camp at 8000m, but did not reach top because of his health and returned to C4 [went to 8380m]. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 21 May 80 North Face Sangaku Doshikai Alpine Club Summit 14 May by 1) Ryoichi Fukada, 37 Tokyo, engineer 2) Haruichi Kawamura, 32, salesman, Tokyo 3) Naoe Sakashita, mountaineer, 33, Tokyo 4) Shomi Suzuki, 26, Kamakura City, draftmen 5) Ang Phurba, 33, Khumjung Started from assault camp at 8000m at 5:00 am; reached top 4:28 pm; all without oxygen. 2nd ascent party planned to climb 17 May: 1) Matasugu Konishi, leader, 41, salesman, Tokyo 2) Motomu Ohmiya, 30, salesman, Tokyo 3) Toshitaka Sakano, 35, medical doctor, Tokyo 4) Pemba Tsering, 36, Namche No news of 1st party's return or 2nd party's attempt. Sakashita - 5 Feb 80 All 7 climbers in KTM and reporter and 2 TV cameraman; 1 cameraman [Akutsu] hopes go above 8000m. Leave KTM 11 Feb by 1 bus and 2 trucks all together to Dharan. Leave Dharan 14 Feb and reach BC (after acclimatization before BC) end of March. Arrive Ghunsa 28 Feb. 3 days arranging, acclimatization climbing, 20-22 days acclimatization, 3 days to BC. BC at Pangpema 5050m ABC at C2 5500m dump C4 highest camp, 7900m-8000m, maybe only snow cave and not tents. C1, C2 and C3 will be fixed camps with tents. Route more direct up North Face then Scott's; Scotts went to North Col and thence ridge; Japanese not to ridge at all. No oxygen for climbing or sleeping; only 6 bottles for medical, except high cameraman has 10 bottles and will use above 7500m or higher depending on his condition. 11 HA Sherpas including sirdar Ang Phurba (Scott's Sherpa). Summit early May. 5 weeks climbing, depends on weather and members condition. Will have acclimatized to 6500m before reaching BC. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | 1st ascent of 8000er without oxygen by Japanese |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2446894 |
| Year | 1980 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n face |
Members
13 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hirofumi Aizawa | M | 1932 | Japan | Reporter | Kamakura, Kanagawa, Japan | Sports writer for Mainichi Newspaper | Details Other expeditions |
| Etsuo Akutsu | M | 1938 | Japan | Cameraman | Asaka, Saitama, Japan | Freelance cameraman employed for this expedition by Mainichi | Details Other expeditions |
| Ryoichi Fukada | M | 1942 | Japan | Climbing Leader | Tokyo, Japan | Installs outdoor display advertising | Details Other expeditions |
| Michio Isokawa | M | 1936 | Japan | Cameraman | Fujisawa, Kanagawa, Japan | Editor & writer in News Division of Mainichi Broadcasting System | Details Other expeditions |
| Haruichi Kawamura | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Mountaineering equipment salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Masatsugu Konishi | M | 1938 | Japan | Leader | Hidaka, Saitama, Japan | Marketing director of mountaineering-equipment manufacturing Co. | Details Other expeditions |
| Motomu Ohmiya | M | 1949 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Mountaineering equipment salesman | Details Other expeditions |
| Toshitaka Sakano | M | 1944 | Japan | Exp Doctor | Tokyo, Japan | Surgeon | Details Other expeditions |
| Naoe Sakashita | M | 1947 | Japan | Climber | Tokyo, Japan | Salesman of quartz crystals in export market | Details Other expeditions |
| Shomi Suzuki | M | 1953 | Japan | Climber | Kamakura, Kanagawa, Japan | Draftsman (of electronic parts) | Details Other expeditions |
| Ang Phurba Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | Sirdar | Khumjung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Pemba Tshering Sherpa | M | 1943 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Thamo, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Dawa Norbu Sherpa | M | 1957 | Nepal | H-A Worker | Yilajung, Khumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
9 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KANG80101 | HJ | Sakashita, Naoe | Japanese on Kangchenjunga | - | 37:153-155 (1979-80) | - |
| KANG80101 | AAJ | Sakashita, Nakoe | - | - | 55:242-243 (1981) | - |
| KANG80101 | JAC | Sakashita, Naoe | The North Face of Kangchenjunga, 1980 | - | 76:7-9 (1981) | - |
| KANG80101 | MM | - | - | - | 74:13 (Jul 1980) | - |
| KANG80101 | JAC | Sakashita, Naoe | The North Face of Kangchenjunga, 1980 | - | 76:64-85 (1981) | - |
| KANG80101 | DAV | Kawamura, Haruichi | Kangchenjunga-Nordwand | - | 106:147-152 (1981) | - |
| KANG80101 | - | Sangaku-Doshikai Kangchenjunga Expedition | Kangchenjunga 8,598M | Sangaku-Doshikai Kangchenjunga Expedition, Tokyo | - | JS55 |
| KANG80101 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198124202/Asia-Nepal-Kanchenjunga-North-Face-Direct | - | - | - |
| KANG80101 | - | - | https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ | - | - | - |