Kangchenjunga | 1980 N Face

A Japan expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1980 via N Face, led by Masatsugu Konishi. Summit reached on 14th May 1980. 13 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1902
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG80101
Peak ID KANG
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Masatsugu Konishi
Sponsor Sangaku Doshikai Kangchenjunga Expedition 1980
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th,7th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1980-03-20
Summit Date 1980-05-14
Summit Time 1628
Summit Days 55
Total Days 66
Termination Date 1980-05-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 11
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/03,5050m),C1(01/04,5800m),C2(07/04,6500m),C3(17/04,7300m),C4(30/04,7900m),Smt(14,17/05)
Route Notes Sakashita - 8 June 80 2 weeks from C4 to top for acclimatization because had no oxygen, otherwise dangerous to go above 8000m. 3 times acclimatized at 8000m. Followed route as planned (see photo in leaflet). Most difficult part of route technically was from 1st to 2nd ice fields. mixed rock and ice. No accidents, serious illness or serious frostbite. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 June 80 Summit 17 May Motomu Ohmiya, born 49, salesman, Tokyo Toshitaka Sakano, born 44, doctor, Tokyo Pemba Tsering, 36, Namche [Thamo?] Dawa Norbu, 25 On top 5:30 pm and returned to last camp 10:00 pm; started 3:30 am. Masatsugu Konishi, leader, started out with them from last camp at 8000m, but did not reach top because of his health and returned to C4 [went to 8380m]. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 21 May 80 North Face Sangaku Doshikai Alpine Club Summit 14 May by 1) Ryoichi Fukada, 37 Tokyo, engineer 2) Haruichi Kawamura, 32, salesman, Tokyo 3) Naoe Sakashita, mountaineer, 33, Tokyo 4) Shomi Suzuki, 26, Kamakura City, draftmen 5) Ang Phurba, 33, Khumjung Started from assault camp at 8000m at 5:00 am; reached top 4:28 pm; all without oxygen. 2nd ascent party planned to climb 17 May: 1) Matasugu Konishi, leader, 41, salesman, Tokyo 2) Motomu Ohmiya, 30, salesman, Tokyo 3) Toshitaka Sakano, 35, medical doctor, Tokyo 4) Pemba Tsering, 36, Namche No news of 1st party's return or 2nd party's attempt. Sakashita - 5 Feb 80 All 7 climbers in KTM and reporter and 2 TV cameraman; 1 cameraman [Akutsu] hopes go above 8000m. Leave KTM 11 Feb by 1 bus and 2 trucks all together to Dharan. Leave Dharan 14 Feb and reach BC (after acclimatization before BC) end of March. Arrive Ghunsa 28 Feb. 3 days arranging, acclimatization climbing, 20-22 days acclimatization, 3 days to BC. BC at Pangpema 5050m ABC at C2 5500m dump C4 highest camp, 7900m-8000m, maybe only snow cave and not tents. C1, C2 and C3 will be fixed camps with tents. Route more direct up North Face then Scott's; Scotts went to North Col and thence ridge; Japanese not to ridge at all. No oxygen for climbing or sleeping; only 6 bottles for medical, except high cameraman has 10 bottles and will use above 7500m or higher depending on his condition. 11 HA Sherpas including sirdar Ang Phurba (Scott's Sherpa). Summit early May. 5 weeks climbing, depends on weather and members condition. Will have acclimatized to 6500m before reaching BC.
Accidents -
Achievement 1st ascent of 8000er without oxygen by Japanese
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446894
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

13 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hirofumi Aizawa M 1932 Japan Reporter Kamakura, Kanagawa, Japan Sports writer for Mainichi Newspaper Details Other expeditions
Etsuo Akutsu M 1938 Japan Cameraman Asaka, Saitama, Japan Freelance cameraman employed for this expedition by Mainichi Details Other expeditions
Ryoichi Fukada M 1942 Japan Climbing Leader Tokyo, Japan Installs outdoor display advertising Details Other expeditions
Michio Isokawa M 1936 Japan Cameraman Fujisawa, Kanagawa, Japan Editor & writer in News Division of Mainichi Broadcasting System Details Other expeditions
Haruichi Kawamura M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Mountaineering equipment salesman Details Other expeditions
Masatsugu Konishi M 1938 Japan Leader Hidaka, Saitama, Japan Marketing director of mountaineering-equipment manufacturing Co. Details Other expeditions
Motomu Ohmiya M 1949 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Mountaineering equipment salesman Details Other expeditions
Toshitaka Sakano M 1944 Japan Exp Doctor Tokyo, Japan Surgeon Details Other expeditions
Naoe Sakashita M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Salesman of quartz crystals in export market Details Other expeditions
Shomi Suzuki M 1953 Japan Climber Kamakura, Kanagawa, Japan Draftsman (of electronic parts) Details Other expeditions
Ang Phurba Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tshering Sherpa M 1943 Nepal H-A Worker Thamo, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Dawa Norbu Sherpa M 1957 Nepal H-A Worker Yilajung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG80101 HJ Sakashita, Naoe Japanese on Kangchenjunga - 37:153-155 (1979-80) -
KANG80101 AAJ Sakashita, Nakoe - - 55:242-243 (1981) -
KANG80101 JAC Sakashita, Naoe The North Face of Kangchenjunga, 1980 - 76:7-9 (1981) -
KANG80101 MM - - - 74:13 (Jul 1980) -
KANG80101 JAC Sakashita, Naoe The North Face of Kangchenjunga, 1980 - 76:64-85 (1981) -
KANG80101 DAV Kawamura, Haruichi Kangchenjunga-Nordwand - 106:147-152 (1981) -
KANG80101 - Sangaku-Doshikai Kangchenjunga Expedition Kangchenjunga 8,598M Sangaku-Doshikai Kangchenjunga Expedition, Tokyo - JS55
KANG80101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198124202/Asia-Nepal-Kanchenjunga-North-Face-Direct - - -
KANG80101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ - - -