Kangchenjunga | 1954 SW Face (recon)

A UK expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1954 via SW Face (recon), led by John Kempe. Summit reached on 16th May 1954. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2872
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG54101
Peak ID KANG
Year 1954
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face (recon)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders John Kempe
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries New Zealand
Approach Darjeeling->Singalila Ridge->Tseram->Yalung Glacier
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1954-05-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 12
Termination Notes Reconnaissance
High Point (m) 6250
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Talung (TLNG-541-01)
Campsites BC(5180m),ABC(5500m),C1(16/05,6250m),xxx(6250m+)
Route Notes -
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2437373
Year 1954
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face (recon)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
John William Rolfe Kempe M 1917 UK Leader Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, India - Details Other expeditions
Gilmour C. Lewis M - UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Ronald (Ron) Jackson M 1916 UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
John William Tucker M - UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Trevor Hyam Braham M 1922 UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Donald Stafford Matthews M 1917 New Zealand Exp Doctor Calcutta, India Physician Details Other expeditions
Ajiba (Ajeeba) Sherpa M 1911 Nepal Sirdar Thami, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Pasang Phutar Sherpa M 1933 Nepal H-A Worker Darjeeling, India - Details Other expeditions

References

13 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG54101 AJ Kempe, John Kangchenjunga Reconnaissance, 1954 - 59:428-431 (Nov 1954) -
KANG54101 HJ Braham, T. H. Kangchenjunga Reconnaissance, 1954 - 19:18-32 (1955-56) -
KANG54101 AJ Side, Douglas Towards Kangchenjunga - 60:83-95 (May 1955) -
KANG54101 - Tucker, John Kangchenjunga Elek Books, London - T261
KANG54101 AAJ - - - 29:178 (1955) -
KANG54101 MW Kurz, Marcel The Himalayan Chronicle 1954 - 116-119 (1955) -
KANG54101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Kangchenjunga - 68:34-40 (Jul 1979) -
KANG54101 - Dyhrenfurth, G. O. Das Buch vom Kantsch Nymphenburger, Munich - D389
KANG54101 - Braham, Trevor Himalayan Odessey George Allen & Unwin, London - B538
KANG54101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195517802/Asia-Nepal-Himalayas-Kangchenjunga - - -
KANG54101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/19/2/kangchenjunga-reconnaissance-1954/ - - -
KANG54101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1955_files/AJ60%201955%2083-95%20Side%20Kangchenjunga.pdf - - -
KANG54101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1954_files/AJ59%201954%20428-431%20Kempe%20Kangchenjunga%20Recce.pdf - - -