Kangchenjunga | 1930 N Face-N Ridge (to 6400m)

A Germany expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1930 via N Face-N Ridge (to 6400m), led by G. O. Dyhrenfurth. Summit reached on 5th May 1930. 15 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2867
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG30101
Peak ID KANG
Year 1930
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-N Ridge (to 6400m)
Route 2 NW Ridge (to 6380m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Germany
Leaders G. O. Dyhrenfurth
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, Switzerland, UK
Approach Darjeeling->Ghunsa->Pangpema (BC); return via Nepal Gap->Sikkim
Basecamp Date 1930-04-26
Summit Date 1930-05-05
Summit Time -
Summit Days 9
Total Days 25
Termination Date 1930-05-21
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 12
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 11
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Jongsang (JONG-301-01), Domo (DOMO-301-01), Nepal Peak (NEPA-301-01) and Ramtang (RAMT-301-01); recon Kangbachen (KANB-301-01)
Campsites BC(26/04,5050m),C1(01/05,5300m),C2A(02/05,5780m),C2B(04/05,5930m),xxx(05/05,6400m); NW-Ridge.C1(11/05,5420m),C2(12/05,5975m),C3(18/05,6150m),xxx(19/05,6380m)
Route Notes Found G. O. Dyhrenfurth's ice axe and remains of his Sherpa who died in avalanche (pre-war clothing and small bones). Letter from Norman Dyhrenfurth - 25 Nov 1987 Chettan was crushed by a huge ice avalanche on May 8, 1930, and after more than an hour of artificial respiration he was buried near C2. My father's old ice-axe was indeed placed on his grave. Perhaps a recent avalanche brought his remains to the surface, and broke the ice axe as well. What a strong coincidence! I certainly look forward to receiving the two pieces. Knowing of no other climber climber killed at that place, it certainly must be Chettan.
Accidents 1 Sherpa killed by avalanche
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2428572
Year 1930
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-n ridge (to 6400m)

Members

15 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Guenter Oskar Dyhrenfurth M 1886 Germany Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Chettan Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Harriet (Hettie) Dyhrenfurth F 1892 Germany Secretary - - Details Other expeditions
Helmuth Richter M - Germany Exp Doctor - Physician Details Other expeditions
Ulrich Wieland M 1902 Germany Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Hermann W. Hoerlin M 1903 Germany Climber Berlin, Germany Medical student Details Other expeditions
Francis Sydney (Frank) Smythe M 1900 UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
George W. Wood-Johnson M 1905 UK Climber/Transport - - Details Other expeditions
John S. Hannah M - UK Climber - - Details Other expeditions
Erwin Schneider M 1906 Austria Climber Hall, Tirol, Austria Geologist Details Other expeditions
Marcel Louis Kurz M 1887 Switzerland Deputy Leader - Cartographer Details Other expeditions
Charles-Georges Duvanel M 1906 Switzerland Cameraman Lausanne, Switzerland Alpine photographer Details Other expeditions
Harry Walter Tobin M 1879 UK Transport Officer - - Details Other expeditions
Lewa Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG30101 - Dyhrenfurth, Gunter O. Himalaya, Unsere Expedition 1930 Scherl, Berlin - D383
KANG30101 - Smythe, Francis S. The Kangchenjunga Adventure Victor Gollancz, London - S622
KANG30101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Kangchenjunga - 68:34-40 (Jul 1979) -
KANG30101 AJ Smythe, F. S. The Assault on Kangchenjunga, 1930 - 42:202-226 (1930) -
KANG30101 HJ Dyhrenfurth, G. O. The International Himalayan Expedition 1930 - 3:77-91 (1931) -
KANG30101 - Dyhrenfurth, Hettie Memsahb im Himalaja Deutsche Buchwerkstatten, Leipzig - D391
KANG30101 - Dyhrenfurth, G. O. Das Buch vom Kantsch Nymphenburger, Munich - D389
KANG30101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/03/9/the-international-himalayan-expedition-1930/ - - -
KANG30101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1930_files/AJ42%201930%20202-226%20Smythe%20Assault%20on%20Kangchenjunga%201930.pdf - - -