Kangchenjunga | 2019 SW Face

A Chile expedition to Kangchenjunga in 2019 via SW Face, led by Hernan Leal. Summit reached on 15th May 2019. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 10272
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG19105
Peak ID KANG
Year 2019
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Chile
Leaders Hernan Leal
Sponsor FastCo Boyden Kangchenjunga Expedition 2019
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Heli to Tseram
Basecamp Date 2019-04-20
Summit Date 2019-05-15
Summit Time 0515
Summit Days 25
Total Days 27
Termination Date 2019-05-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 4
Summit Hired 4
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(20/04,5500m),C1(24/04,6200m),C2(28/04,6100m),C3(29/04,7000m),C4(13/05,7500m),Smt(15/05)
Route Notes BC 20/04 5500m C1 24/04 6200m C2 28/04 6100m C3 29/04 7000m C4 13/05 7500m Smt 15/05 by Leal, Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa, Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Chheten Sherpa and Rajan Bhote by 5:15 am. Summit team left C4 at 5:05 am on 14/04. The Sherpas were fixing the ropes and the snow was about 40cm deep but also soft. From 8300m the conditions were good – hard snow. They opened the route to 8400m. Leal’s oxygen regulator broke and he had to change it then. A group of Japanese, Bulgarian and Mexican past him. They stayed about half an hour on the summit. It was very cold but clear. They descended to C4, where they arrived at midday. On 16/05 to BC and left BC on 17/05 by heli. Oxygen: Used from C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas, C4 to top to C3 by Leal. Sherpas: Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa (with Leal on Everest in 2017) Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa (with Leal on Everest in 2017) Chheten Dorje herpa (brother of Lhakpa Tshering and Lhakpa Chhiri) Rajan Lama Bhote Hernan Leal report on Rodrigo Vivanco: Leal arrived at BC 20/04. Rodrigo arrived on 01/05 when Leal was at BC after his rotation and he was very tired and did not meet Rodrigo before 03/05. Leal invited Rodrigo to his camp on 03/05 to meet him. Rodrigo left BC for summit rotation on 09/05, one day before 10/05. They were both at C2 together when the vestibule of Rodrigo’s tent broke. The weather forecast was bad for the following days. When Leal was on his way from C2 to C3 the storm started and they were looking for Rodrigo, who was coming up very slowly as he had carried all his gear. He never arrived at C3 as he did a bivouac between C2 and C3. At C3, Rodrigo told Leal that he could no longer use his tent as it was broken. He slept in the Peak Promotion Sherpa tents. At C3 Rodrigo put his sleeping bag on top of the tent and the tent blew it away and threw it into a crevasse. Rodrigo wanted to get his sleeping bag in the crevasse, but the others talked him into going back. Leal was at C4 on 13/05 and Rodrigo arrived at C4 on 14/05. On summit day, Leal met Rodrigo when he came down. Rodrigo was on his way up. They were at about 8000m and Rodrigo was lucid but, of course, tired. They talked and then they parted. That was the last time Leal saw Vivanco. Apparently Nirmal Purja overtook Rodrigo on his way up and Nirmal tried to convince him to come down. But of course, he refused.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Shangri-La Nepal Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2462303
Year 2019
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hernan David Leal Barrientos M 1966 Chile Leader Santiago, Chile Entrepeneur for Contact Centre Details Other expeditions
Rajan Lama Bhote M 1987 Nepal H-A Worker Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Chheten Dorje Sherpa M 1987 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam) Sherpa M 1974 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tshering (Lakpa Chhiring) Sherpa M 1990 Nepal H-A Worker Pangboche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.