Kangchenjunga | 2017 SW Face

A Italy expedition to Kangchenjunga in 2017 via SW Face, led by Simone Moro. Summit reached on 9th May 2017. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 9418
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG17102
Peak ID KANG
Year 2017
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Simone Moro
Sponsor Kangchenjunga-Yalung Kang Traverse 2017
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Helicopter to BC
Basecamp Date 2017-04-14
Summit Date 2017-05-09
Summit Time -
Summit Days 25
Total Days 43
Termination Date 2017-05-27
Termination Reason 7
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7350m due to Moro's illness and unstable weather
High Point (m) 7350
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 1400
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Originally planned for Yalung Kang
Campsites BC(14/04,5500m),C1(24/04,6140m),C2(25/04,6250m),C3(02/05,6600m),C4(09/05,7350m),xxx
Route Notes Initial plan: Yalung Khang (new route) and traverse to Kangchenjunga, acclimatize on Kangch normal route. Go to Kangchenjnga C1, then go left, cross Japanese 1973 route and summit Yalung Kang West, go to Yalung Kang Main, then ridge to Kangchenjunga. BC 14/04 5500m by heli C1 24/04 6140m C2 25/04 6250m C3 02/05 6600m (lower than usual C3) C4 09/05 7350m by Moro, Lunger (high point). Team never got the possibility to start with their original plan up the Yalung Kang ridge. Moro had bad feelings about the route and they decided to acclimatize on the normal route and then see how they were going. They did not use the first window of 16 May as there were too many people were on the route. First summit push 22 May: they reached 7000m, but Moro felt sick and vomited. The weather was very good and it was very hot (about 37C) and they went back down to BC. On 23 May they rested at BC. On 24 May, they went back up again for another summit push as weather forecast was good. They reached C3 on 24 May. On 25 May, they intended to go to C4 but at about 7100m Moro was feeling sick again and they descended to BC. They took their tents down on the descent. It was snowing and no visibility. They left BC on 27 May by helicopter. During the whole climb, they had their initial idea of the traverse in mind. Defrancesco reached about 5800m. He was never intending to climb. According to Moro Kangchenjunga has one of the dirtiest basecamps he has ever seen.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2460440
Year 2017
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Simone Moro M 1967 Italy Leader Ponteranica, Bergamo, Italy Alpinist/pilot Details Other expeditions
Tamara Lunger F 1986 Italy Climber Gunner, Bozen, Italy Alpinist/student Details Other expeditions
Fabrizio Defrancesco M 1959 Italy Climber Canazei, Trento, Italy Hotelier Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG17102 - - http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/simone-moro-and-tamara-lunger-end-kangchenjunga-skyline-project.html - - -
KANG17102 - - https://www.thenorthface.co.uk/exploration/our-journal/kangchenjunga-expedition.html - - -
KANG17102 - - http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/2017/05/himalaya-spring-2017-moro-and-lunger.html - - -