Kangchenjunga | 2014 SW Face

A Russia expedition to Kangchenjunga in 2014 via SW Face, led by Oxana Morneva. Summit reached on 18th May 2014. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8495
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG14109
Peak ID KANG
Year 2014
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Oxana Morneva
Sponsor Russians to Kangchenjunga
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Olangphungola (bus)->Ramche
Basecamp Date 2014-04-11
Summit Date 2014-05-18
Summit Time 1200
Summit Days 37
Total Days 40
Termination Date 2014-05-21
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/04,5600m),C1(15/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(22/04,7000m),C4(17/05,7600m),Smt(18/05)
Route Notes Started at 4:30 pm on 17 May from C4 to summit. On 18 May the team used a variant in the final stage of the climb, avoiding the brown chimney by the left to join the West Ridge. Oxana reached about 8500m via this variant around 11:30 am with the 3 Sherpas. At this stage, as they needed to make an exposed climb down then up again on the ridge to reach the proper summit, the Sherpas argued they didn't have enough oxygen left (in fact according to Oxana afterwards they could use it down until C2) and because unroped, they couldn't help Oxana to come down in case of accident or exhaustion (Oxana being handicapped due to a serious 300m fall on K2 which hurt her left leg; she was operated 3 times in Pakistan but her leg still not working very well). Coming back to take the normal route up to summit would have taken too long time (5 hours), so they came down, whereas her 2 teammates continued via the same variant and reached the summit at 12 pm. All group went back at C4 at 5 pm. There Oxana and her 3 Sherpas decided to continue down to C2 (reached at 8 pm), whereas 2 summiters remained at C4 for sleeping. On 19 May all the group was back to BC. On 21 May Oxana flew by helicopter to Tseram with the Korean team; remnant of the team left BC by foot. Team had serious problems during the return march, as their gear was stolen by local porters. Things deteriorated into fights and death threatenings by locals without any intervention from local police at all. Oxana had difficult acclimatization time on the mountain, feeling physically better during summit push. However, she mentioned that she never experienced something so difficult; she felt the mountain to be less dangerous than K2 but steeper, with notable technical ice difficulties on the way to C1 and C3, some serac danger at C4 and a very long summit day. Fixed rope: shared with all teams, 6000m Sherpas: Lakpa [Jarok] Sherpa, 11/10/78 (2035/06/25), Zarok, Namche-1 Lakpa Chhiring Sherpa, (2040/07/25) 11/11/83, Namche-3 Chatur Kumar Tamang, Chhanga, 25/8/1973, Kanku-4, Solukhumbu [Data revised in May 2017 to indicate that Lhakpa and Chatur Tamang summited.]
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Dream Himalaya Adventures
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2459350
Year 2014
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Andrei Manuylov M 1965 Russia Climber Pervouralsk, Russia Manager Details Other expeditions
Oxana Morneva F 1975 Russia Leader Sochi, Russia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Arkadiy Ryzhenko M 1972 Russia Climber Ekaterinburg (Sverdlovsk), Russia Businessman Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Sherpa M 1978 Nepal H-A Worker Zarok, Namche, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa M 1983 Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Chatur Kumar Tamang M 1973 Nepal H-A Worker Chhando, Kanku-4 - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.