Kangchenjunga | 2013 SW Face

A Iran expedition to Kangchenjunga in 2013 via SW Face, led by Reza Shahlaee. Summit reached on 20th May 2013. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8089
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG13110
Peak ID KANG
Year 2013
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Iran
Leaders Reza Shahlaee
Sponsor Iranian to Kangchenjunga
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 97th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Biratnagar
Basecamp Date 2013-04-17
Summit Date 2013-05-20
Summit Time 1700
Summit Days 33
Total Days 37
Termination Date 2013-05-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(17/04,5500m),C1(20/04,6140m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(26/04,7000m),C4(27/04,7960m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes BC 17 Apr 5500m C1 20 Apr 6140m C2 21 Apr 6400m C3 26 Apr 7000m C4 27 Apr 7460m Smt 20 May by Shalaee, Mingma Gyalje at 3 pm. Team left C4 at 7:30 pm on 19 May. Many teams left that day. They climbed to 8100m and the fixed rope ended. Shahlaee and Mingma Gyalje roped up together to climb safely. There were still parts of old fixed rope, which they used. They were four more people on the summit, where they stayed for about 45 minutes. He had no problems on the way down, but saw the dead bodies of the two Sherpas, the Hungarian and the South Korean near C2, who had fallen on their descent. After the summit they descended to C4, where they arrived at midnight. On 21 May they left C4 at 9 am and descended to BC. Team had tried for the summit already on 27 April. They left C4 at 7 pm on 26 April. They were on their own and when they reached 8100m at 6 am, they turned back as there was no fixed rope. They descended to C4, where they spent the night. Oxygen: Taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 Mingma Gyalje used no oxygen Sherpa: Mingma Gyalje, Beding, Dolakha, (2043/1/1) 14/4/86 From Mingma Gyalje - 6 July 2022 (via WhatsApp) Mingma G: Hi Billi I made it without oxygen in 2013 with Reza on Kanchenjunga and I with Bibash Gurung fixed all the rope above Camp 4. Mingma G: Nima Gyalzen with Parvaneh Kazemi returned back from around 7600m.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Dreamers Destination Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458986
Year 2013
Summit Success True
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Mohammad Rezashahram (Reza) Shahlaei M 1959 Iran Leader Kermanshah, Iran Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa M 1986 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG13110 - - http://kanchhenjunga.blogspot.com/2013/11/kanchenjunga-expedition-2013.html - - -