Kangchenjunga | 2013 SW Face

A Italy expedition to Kangchenjunga in 2013 via SW Face, led by Mario Vielmo. Summit reached on 20th May 2013. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8095
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG13106
Peak ID KANG
Year 2013
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Mario Vielmo
Sponsor Kangchenjunga Expedition 2013
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 96th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach By air to Bhadrapur->bus to Khamding->trek to BC
Basecamp Date 2013-04-25
Summit Date 2013-05-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 25
Total Days 30
Termination Date 2013-05-25
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 8586
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/04,5500m),C1(28/04,6200m),C2(29/04,6350m),C3(06/05,6950m),C4(19/05,7400m),Smt(20/05)
Route Notes All four members began the expedition's push to the summit together with their reoccupation of C2 on 17 May. They returned to C3 on the 18th, with Bibas Gurung and Phurpu Bhote and established C4 at 7400m on the 19th. The six climbers left C4 for the top at 9 pm on the 19th. But two members turned around before reaching the summit because they were very tired: Forgiarini gave up at 7700m and Fioretti at 8350m. Phurpu also turned back at about 8100m. "I think Sherpa Phurpu came back because he was not next to me" Vielmo explained. The three returned to C4 for the night." Vielmo and Bibas continued to the top with two Hungarians, Zsolt Eross and Peter Kiss, from a different team. Vielmo and Bibas were on the summit at about 5:20-5:25 pm on 20 May without fixed ropes and bottled oxygen. The two men then descended via a crevasse with Vielmo in the lead. Vielmo has assummed that Bibas slipped coming down the crevasse, but since Vielmo was ahead, he did not see what actually happened to him. Bibas body was found 700-800m lower down above C4 [according to Parvaneh Kazemi]. Vielmo got back to his C4 tent at 3:30 am on the 21st after 30 hours of climbing. The three members and Phurpu Bhote left BC on 25 May and returned to Kathmandu on 1 June. Two of Vielmo's fingers became frostbitten, but they healed well. Sherpas: Bibas Gurung, 6/6/88, Hatiya-8, Sankhuwasabha, Lhotse X1 Phurpu Bhote, 7/5/76 (25/1/2033), Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha
Accidents Vielmo frostbite; Bibas fatal fall
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458986
Year 2013
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Annalisa Fioretti F 1977 Italy Climber Milano, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Silvano Forgiarini M 1968 Italy Climber Gemonadel Friuli, Udine, Italy Worker Details Other expeditions
Mario Vielmo M 1964 Italy Leader Lonigo, Vicenza, Italy Businessman Details Other expeditions
Bibas Gurung M 1988 Nepal H-A Worker Hatiya-7, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Phurba (Phurpu) Bhote M 1976 Nepal H-A Worker Hatiya-1, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.