Kangchenjunga | 2013 SW Face

A Iran expedition to Kangchenjunga in 2013 via SW Face, led by Parvaneh Kazemi. Summit reached on 12th May 2013. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8093
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG13104
Peak ID KANG
Year 2013
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Iran
Leaders Parvaneh Kazemi
Sponsor Iranian Woman on Kangchenjunga
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Biratnager
Basecamp Date 2013-04-18
Summit Date 2013-05-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 24
Total Days 36
Termination Date 2013-05-24
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8200m due to lack of fixed rope
High Point (m) 8200
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used True
O2 None False
O2 Climb True
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep True
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(18/04,5500m),C1(25/04,6200m),C2(26/04,6500m),C3(08/05,7150m),C4A(12/05,7350m),C4B(19/05,7500m),xxx(12/05,8200m)
Route Notes BC at normal BC site C1 above icefall High point at 8200m. Kazemi launched her first summit bid by making her C4 at 7350m on 10 May, and that night, at 11:00 pm setting out for the top. However at 5:00 the next morning, she felt it was too late for her to get to the summit, and she returned to C4. She had been climbing with an Iranian man (Shahalee) and a Bangladeshi (Mohit) and their Sherpas. She rested in C4, then at 10:30 pm on the 11th, she again left for the summit, this time with a Chinese woman, Luo Jing. Now at 2:30 the next afternoon, she managed to get as high as 8200m, at the bottom of a couloir, but there were no fixed ropes above this point, it was very cold and windy, and again she retreated to C4, at 8:00 pm. On the 13th she was back in BC. She decided her C4 should be moved higher, so on the 18th she returned to C4 and on the 19th took it 150m higher to 7500m. That evening she began another summit push, but by 7:00 pm, she couldn't breathe. At 7900m she decided to return to C4, and at 3:00 am on the 20th she was back in C4. She intended to descend that day to C2 (6500m), but instead continued down to BC, taking her C2 gear with her. That night an avalanche struck C2. Kazemi did not attempt to go up again because of pneumonia. Large crevasses had opened up and weather was changing quickly. She left BC on the 24th and reached Kathmandu on 1 June. Kazemi had one Sherpa helping her, Nima Gyalzen, who reached the high point of 8200m with her on 12 May. Sherpa: Nima Gyalzen, 9/8/85, Beding, Everest X5, Manaslu X3, Cho Oyu X1
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Dreamers Destination Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458978
Year 2013
Summit Success False
O2 Summary Used
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Parvaneh Kazemi F 1970 Iran Leader Tehran, Iran Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Nima Gyalzen Sherpa M 1985 Nepal H-A Worker Beding, Dolakha - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.