Kangchenjunga | 2012 SW Face

A Chile expedition to Kangchenjunga in 2012 via SW Face, led by Luis Alvarez. Summit reached on 18th May 2012. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7577
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID KANG12103
Peak ID KANG
Year 2012
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Chile
Leaders Luis Alvarez
Sponsor Chile Al Kangchenjunga 2012
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2012-04-19
Summit Date 2012-05-18
Summit Time 0830
Summit Days 29
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 9
Termination Notes Abandoned at 8400m due to too late in the day
High Point (m) 8400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 250
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(19/04,5400m),C1(25/04,6200m),C2(26/04,6400m),C3(15/05,7100m),C4(16/05,7600m),xxx(18/05,8400m)
Route Notes BC 19 Apr 5400m C1 25 Apr 6200m C2 26 Apr 6400m C3 15 May 7100m C4 16 May 7600m HPt 18 May 8400m by Alvarez, Rodney, Sepulveda at 8:30 am. High point team left C4 at 8:20 pm on 17 May. It was very windy, so they decided to stay an extra night at C4. Conditions on the mountain were good, however, they were very slow and when they reached their high point at 8400m they thought it was too late and turned back. They returned to C4, where they arrived at 10 pm. They stopped at their deposit camp at 8100m to collect their things. They descended to the left hand side whereas they had ascended on the right. On 19 May they helped an American climber, David Abramski, at about 7400m, who had turned back from his summit attempt. Abramski was very tired and possibly suffered from HAPE and was lost. They descended with him to C3, where they arrived at 8 pm. On 20 May they left for BC at 8 am. They arrived at C2 at 4 pm at BC at midnight. On their way down they broke down all their camps. Koller reached 6500m on 4 May. He was in pain as he had a pulled muscle in his left calf during the walk-in. He abandoned the expedition and stayed at BC for the rest of the expedition. Retamal stayed at BC. He was the expedition doctor and never intended to climb. Torres reached C2 on 20 May to help the team to pack up. He had been suffering from sinusitis for the whole expedition and never left BC before he ascended to C2 to help the team break down the camp on 20 May. He did not sleep at C2. On 21 May they left BC and walked all the way to Ramche, which took them between 15 hours and 22 hours. Accident: At an altitude of about 6700m, Sepulveda fell on the fixed rope and pulled out the anchor and dragged Alvarez with him. They fell for about 5m to 8m respectively. Alvarez bruised a rib. Oxygen: Not taken, not used
Accidents Fall by Sepulveda and Alvarez
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458618
Year 2012
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Luis Wolfgang Alvarez Carrasco M 1969 Chile Leader Santiago, Chile Alpine guide & engineer Details Other expeditions
Rodney Gonzalez M 1979 Chile Climber San Fernando, Chile Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Warwin Alex Koller Schulz M 1970 Chile Climber Pucon, Chile Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Rodrigo Retamal M 1969 Chile Exp Doctor Antofagasta, Chile Physician Details Other expeditions
Daniel Andres Rutllant Torres M 1970 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mario Alesandro Sepulveda Palma M 1972 Chile Climber Santiago, Chile Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
KANG12103 - - http://www.kanchenjunga.cl/ - - -