Kangchenjunga | 2011 SW Face
A Italy expedition to Kangchenjunga in 2011 via SW Face, led by Mario Panzeri. Summit reached on 20th May 2011. 4 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 7193 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KANG11114 |
| Peak ID | KANG |
| Year | 2011 |
| Season | 1 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Italy |
| Leaders | Mario Panzeri |
| Sponsor | Friends Kangchenjunga Expedition |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 93rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Poland, Romania |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 2011-04-08 |
| Summit Date | 2011-05-20 |
| Summit Time | 0900 |
| Summit Days | 42 |
| Total Days | 44 |
| Termination Date | 2011-05-22 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 8586 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 4 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 4 |
| Summit Members | 1 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(08/04,5500m),C1(16/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6800m),C3(01/05,7100m),C4(07/05,7400m),Smt(20/05) |
| Route Notes | The four-member expedition had no climbing Sherpas with them and took no artificial oxygen. They were able to put only one member on the summit. The successful summiter was Mario Panzeri. After 16 hours of climbing, he arrived at the top on 20th May at 9:00 am with a climber from Austria. He had left C4 for the top at on 19th May at 6:30 pm and was back in C4 at 3:30 pm on the 20th. The following day, the 21st, he returned alone from C4 to BC. The three other members turned back before the summit as follows: Gavan went to BC on 17 May during in his push for the top: he had stomach problems while climbing between C2 and C3 and did not resume the climb. He had been to 7000m with Michalski on 7 May during their acclimatization period. Michalski reached 8400m on the 20th, but turned back when he decided he did not have enough energy to get to the top and return safely. Martines turned back not far above C4 at 7400m. He had not acclimatized to the high altitudes throughout the climb. Fixed rope: 700m donated. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | 7 Summits Adventure |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2458253 |
| Year | 2011 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw face |
Members
4 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alexandru Costin (Alex) Gavan | M | 1982 | Romania | Climber | Cepari, Romania | Alpinist, photographer & public speaker | Details Other expeditions |
| Antonello Martines | M | 1964 | Italy | Climber | Figino Serenza, Como, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Pawel Bartosz Michalski | M | 1973 | Poland | Climber | Lodz, Poland | Researcher at University of Warsaw | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario Luciano Panzeri | M | 1964 | Italy | Leader | Mandello del Lario, Lecco, Italy | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
References
0 recorded references.