Kangchenjunga | 1905 SW Face
A UK expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1905 via SW Face, led by Aleister Crowley. Summit reached on 1st September 1905. 9 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2860 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | KANG05201 |
| Peak ID | KANG |
| Year | 1905 |
| Season | 2 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Face |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | UK |
| Leaders | Aleister Crowley |
| Sponsor | - |
| Success 1 | False |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | - |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Italy, Switzerland |
| Approach | Darjeeling->Singalila Ridge->Seno La->Tseram->Yalung Glacier |
| Basecamp Date | - |
| Summit Date | 1905-09-01 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 0 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 6 |
| Termination Notes | Abandoned at 6300m due to fatal accident above C7 |
| High Point (m) | 6300 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 7 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 5 |
| Summit Members | 0 |
| Member Deaths | 1 |
| Total Hired | 4 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 4 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(Aug),C1,C2,C3(4900m),C4(5300m),C5(5700m),C6(6100m),C7(6300m),xxx(01/09,6300m) |
| Route Notes | See Indian Mountaineer, Autumn 78, pg 19-21 |
| Accidents | 1 porter killed in fall; 1 Swiss member and 3 porters killed in fall and avalanche |
| Achievement | None |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | - |
| Standard Route | True |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2419490 |
| Year | 1905 |
| Summit Success | False |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw face |
Members
9 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Edward Alexander (Aleister) Crowley | M | 1875 | UK | Leader | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Alexis A. Pache | M | - | Switzerland | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Unknown | M | - | Nepal/India? | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Unknown | M | - | Nepal/India? | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Unknown | M | - | Nepal/India? | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Unknown | M | - | Nepal/India? | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Jules Jacot-Guillarmod | M | 1868 | Switzerland | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Alcesti C. Rigo De Righi | M | - | Italy | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Charles-Adolphe Reymond | M | - | Switzerland | Climber | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
5 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KANG05201 | MM | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman | Kangchenjunga | - | 68:34-40 (Jul 1979) | - |
| KANG05201 | - | Symonds, John & Grant, Kenneth | The Confessions of Aleister Crowley | Routledge & Keegan, London | - | S841 |
| KANG05201 | - | Dyhrenfurth, G. O. | Das Buch vom Kantsch | Nymphenburger, Munich | - | D389 |
| KANG05201 | OTH | Jacot-Guillarmod, Jules | Vers le Kangchinjunga, Himalaya Nepalias | Swiss Alpine Journal | 41:190-205 (1906) | - |
| KANG05201 | IM | - | A Moveable Feast | - | 2:13-21 (Autumn 1978) | - |