Kangchenjunga | 1905 SW Face

A UK expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1905 via SW Face, led by Aleister Crowley. Summit reached on 1st September 1905. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	2860
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1905
Season	2
Host Country	1
Route 1	SW Face
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	UK
Leaders	Aleister Crowley
Sponsor	-
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	Italy, Switzerland
Approach	Darjeeling->Singalila Ridge->Seno La->Tseram->Yalung Glacier
Basecamp Date	-
Summit Date	1905-09-01
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	0
Total Days	0
Termination Date	-
Termination Reason	6
Termination Notes	Abandoned at 6300m due to fatal accident above C7
High Point (m)	6300
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	7
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	5
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	1
Total Hired	4
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	4
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(Aug),C1,C2,C3(4900m),C4(5300m),C5(5700m),C6(6100m),C7(6300m),xxx(01/09,6300m)
Route Notes	See Indian Mountaineer, Autumn 78, pg 19-21
Accidents	1 porter killed in fall; 1 Swiss member and 3 porters killed in fall and avalanche
Achievement	None
Agency	-
Commercial Route	-
Standard Route	True
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	False
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2419490
Year	1905
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	sw face

Members

Field	Value
ID	21872
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Member ID	01
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1905
Season	2
First Name	Edward Alexander (Aleister)
Last Name	Crowley
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1875
Calculated Age	29
Citizenship	UK
Status	Leader
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1875-1947) Died 1 December 1947
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	2404213
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	edward alexander (aleister) crowley
Year of Birth	1875
Year	1905
Age at Expedition	30
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	23451
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Member ID	03
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1905
Season	2
First Name	Alexis A.
Last Name	Pache
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Switzerland
Status	Climber
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6300
Summit Date 1	1905-09-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	True
Death Date	1905-09-01
Death Time	-
Death Type	4
Death Height (m)	6300
Death Class	3
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Killed in fall and avalanche above C7
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(....-1905) Died 1 Sep 1905 on Kangchenjunga from fall
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	-104
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	1
Name (lowercase)	alexis a. pache
Year of Birth	-
Year	1905
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	23452
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Member ID	08
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1905
Season	2
First Name	-
Last Name	Unknown
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal/India?
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6300
Summit Date 1	1905-09-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	True
Death Date	1905-09-01
Death Time	-
Death Type	4
Death Height (m)	6300
Death Class	3
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Killed in fall and avalanche above C7
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(....-1905) Died 1 Sept 1905 on Kangchenjunga from fall
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	-104
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	1
Name (lowercase)	unknown
Year of Birth	-
Year	1905
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	23453
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Member ID	07
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1905
Season	2
First Name	-
Last Name	Unknown
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal/India?
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6300
Summit Date 1	1905-09-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	True
Death Date	1905-09-01
Death Time	-
Death Type	4
Death Height (m)	6300
Death Class	3
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Killed in fall and avalanche above C7
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(....-1905) Died 1 Sept 1905 on Kangchenjunga from fall
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	-104
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	1
Name (lowercase)	unknown
Year of Birth	-
Year	1905
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	23454
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Member ID	06
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1905
Season	2
First Name	-
Last Name	Unknown
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal/India?
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	True
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	4
Death Height (m)	6100
Death Class	3
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Killed in fall at C6
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(....-1905) Died in 1905 on Kangchenjunga from fall
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	-104
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	1
Name (lowercase)	unknown
Year of Birth	-
Year	1905
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	23455
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Member ID	09
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1905
Season	2
First Name	-
Last Name	Unknown
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Nepal/India?
Status	H-A Worker
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	True
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6300
Summit Date 1	1905-09-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	True
Death Date	1905-09-01
Death Time	-
Death Type	4
Death Height (m)	6300
Death Class	3
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Killed in fall and avalanche above C7
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(....-1905) Died 1905 on Kangchenjunga from fall
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	-104
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	1
Name (lowercase)	unknown
Year of Birth	-
Year	1905
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Hired

Field	Value
ID	29545
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Member ID	02
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1905
Season	2
First Name	Jules
Last Name	Jacot-Guillarmod
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1868
Calculated Age	36
Citizenship	Switzerland
Status	Climber
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6300
Summit Date 1	1905-09-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Survived avalanche above C7
Member Notes	-
Necrology	(1868-1925) Died 5 June 1925
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	2401737
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	jules jacot-guillarmod
Year of Birth	1868
Year	1905
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	29546
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Member ID	05
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1905
Season	2
First Name	Alcesti C.
Last Name	Rigo De Righi
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Italy
Status	Climber
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6300
Summit Date 1	1905-09-01
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	Survived avalanche above C7
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	-86
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	alcesti c. rigo de righi
Year of Birth	-
Year	1905
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	29547
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Member ID	04
Peak ID	KANG
Year	1905
Season	2
First Name	Charles-Adolphe
Last Name	Reymond
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	-
Calculated Age	0
Citizenship	Switzerland
Status	Climber
Residence	-
Occupation	-
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	1
Summit Term	5
HCN	0
Checksum	-86
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	charles-adolphe reymond
Year of Birth	-
Year	1905
Age at Expedition	-
Role	Member

9 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Edward Alexander (Aleister) Crowley	M	1875	UK	Leader	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Alexis A. Pache	M	-	Switzerland	Climber	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Unknown	M	-	Nepal/India?	H-A Worker	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Unknown	M	-	Nepal/India?	H-A Worker	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Unknown	M	-	Nepal/India?	H-A Worker	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Unknown	M	-	Nepal/India?	H-A Worker	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Jules Jacot-Guillarmod	M	1868	Switzerland	Climber	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Alcesti C. Rigo De Righi	M	-	Italy	Climber	-	-	Details Other expeditions
Charles-Adolphe Reymond	M	-	Switzerland	Climber	-	-	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	3846
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Reference ID	01
Year	1905
Type	3
Journal	MM
Author	Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman
Title	Kangchenjunga
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1979
Language	-
Citation	68:34-40 (Jul 1979)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	7191
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Reference ID	02
Year	1905
Type	1
Journal	-
Author	Symonds, John & Grant, Kenneth
Title	The Confessions of Aleister Crowley
Publisher	Routledge & Keegan, London
Publication Date	1969
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	S841
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	7200
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Reference ID	03
Year	1905
Type	1
Journal	-
Author	Dyhrenfurth, G. O.
Title	Das Buch vom Kantsch
Publisher	Nymphenburger, Munich
Publication Date	1955
Language	German
Citation	-
Yak 94	D389
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	7212
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Reference ID	04
Year	1905
Type	2
Journal	OTH
Author	Jacot-Guillarmod, Jules
Title	Vers le Kangchinjunga, Himalaya Nepalias
Publisher	Swiss Alpine Journal
Publication Date	1906
Language	French
Citation	41:190-205 (1906)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	7507
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	KANG05201
Reference ID	05
Year	1905
Type	2
Journal	IM
Author	-
Title	A Moveable Feast
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1978
Language	-
Citation	2:13-21 (Autumn 1978)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
KANG05201	MM	Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman	Kangchenjunga	-	68:34-40 (Jul 1979)	-
KANG05201	-	Symonds, John & Grant, Kenneth	The Confessions of Aleister Crowley	Routledge & Keegan, London	-	S841
KANG05201	-	Dyhrenfurth, G. O.	Das Buch vom Kantsch	Nymphenburger, Munich	-	D389
KANG05201	OTH	Jacot-Guillarmod, Jules	Vers le Kangchinjunga, Himalaya Nepalias	Swiss Alpine Journal	41:190-205 (1906)	-
KANG05201	IM	-	A Moveable Feast	-	2:13-21 (Autumn 1978)	-